tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-27055264792071569812024-03-13T22:29:48.700+00:00Ellie Bennett's BlogTales from the highways and byways of Britain...and some random ramblings on other stuff.Elliehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07671617922958041389noreply@blogger.comBlogger147125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2705526479207156981.post-5112374455289850602018-05-05T15:56:00.000+01:002018-05-05T18:36:04.513+01:00End of the road...for now<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
The road section out of Niihama is busy and not the most scenic and it is a relief to turn onto quieter suburban roads with beautifully manicured gardens. <br />
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-G9kmE1uAKZA/Wu3AmdXPIwI/AAAAAAAAG-o/Dz7gCjxogWQLpRNS9EI1NEim2kusVUl8ACLcBGAs/s1600/P4220064.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-G9kmE1uAKZA/Wu3AmdXPIwI/AAAAAAAAG-o/Dz7gCjxogWQLpRNS9EI1NEim2kusVUl8ACLcBGAs/s400/P4220064.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A less scenic section...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-f0mr7nPKtno/Wu3AmauwtPI/AAAAAAAAG-w/26A7L9Q_rhAWMEq3DtqUSL_wyfWSCANrACLcBGAs/s1600/P4220065.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-f0mr7nPKtno/Wu3AmauwtPI/AAAAAAAAG-w/26A7L9Q_rhAWMEq3DtqUSL_wyfWSCANrACLcBGAs/s400/P4220065.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This lovely resting place cheered us up</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The weather forecast is for rain and the humid air feels clammy and a bit oppressive. We are heading towards Shikokuchuo where the route turns inland towards Temple 65, Sankakuji and then Temple 66, Unpenji, the highest temple on the pilgrimage. I am planning the logistics - there are few opportunities to buy food and we also need to decide where to camp.<br />
<br />
And then suddenly it is all over.<br />
<br />
We stop for a rest and a coffee and Mick pulls out his mobile phone to check for messages. There is a message from his brother back home in the UK. He has been diagnosed with a serious illness. 'I thought you should know but don't cut your trip short,' the message ends. <br />
<br />
Mick shows me the message and I read it in silence. Mick says nothing at all, just looks down the road. I cannot read his expression. Of course his brother would like him to come home, despite his protestation. I thought about my sister who was diagnosed with breast cancer just before we left for Japan and who has a course of radiotherapy due to start in a couple of weeks time. She hasn't asked but I know that she too would be glad if I were around.<br />
'Let's go home,' I say at last. 'We're not walking the full route. It doesn't matter.'<br />
Mick looks at me with relief. 'You don't mind?'<br />
'No. Let's just call it a day. We are not meant to be here. Not right now.'<br />
<br />
Of course it isn't quite as simple as that. Our flights are booked for the beginning of June. We take a train to Takamatsu and book into a hotel from where we phone the airline, Cathay Pacific, and the travel agency back in England, Trailfinders. Both are extremely helpful and soon our flights are rescheduled for three days time.<br />
<br />
We take the train to Osaka via Himeji. As we have a day or two in hand we stop for a night at Himeji and visit the castle. It is Golden Week and Himeji is thronging with tourists but the castle looks spectacular.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-JMVTlbsSUH8/Wu3BXNQP3eI/AAAAAAAAG_c/cUULJ7knvBIkzwCjMCmFL343sXfVa1G4ACLcBGAs/s1600/P4290093.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: #0066cc; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; orphans: 2; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-JMVTlbsSUH8/Wu3BXNQP3eI/AAAAAAAAG_c/cUULJ7knvBIkzwCjMCmFL343sXfVa1G4ACLcBGAs/s400/P4290093.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Himeji Castle</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DWk_ZD0S-s0/Wu3BNsDsftI/AAAAAAAAG_Y/5v0GsGe8624djHw374p-qxUdZzVdGfIHACEwYBhgL/s1600/P4290098.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: #0066cc; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; orphans: 2; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DWk_ZD0S-s0/Wu3BNsDsftI/AAAAAAAAG_Y/5v0GsGe8624djHw374p-qxUdZzVdGfIHACEwYBhgL/s400/P4290098.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Wuv8JrUMUrs/Wu3AvKBLArI/AAAAAAAAG-4/evSBEOngi0YSlDbRDmmePJUYawyEG6eZACLcBGAs/s1600/P4290116.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: #0066cc; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; orphans: 2; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"></a><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Wuv8JrUMUrs/Wu3AvKBLArI/AAAAAAAAG-4/evSBEOngi0YSlDbRDmmePJUYawyEG6eZACLcBGAs/s1600/P4290116.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; clear: left; color: #0066cc; float: left; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; orphans: 2; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><br /></a></div>
<br />
At Osaka we book into an expensive hotel for the last night as a consolation for ending our trip earlier than planned. The flight connections are not ideal, being booked at such short notice and will require a night at Hong Kong airport before a morning flight to London, so we want to make the most of the final night in Japan. The hotel is superb, we know we have booked the right place when we find they are dispensing free wine and desserts in the lobby. The staff, like everywhere else we have been in Japan, are impeccably dressed and are polite and helpful. I will miss this level of customer service when I get home.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Wuv8JrUMUrs/Wu3AvKBLArI/AAAAAAAAG-4/evSBEOngi0YSlDbRDmmePJUYawyEG6eZACLcBGAs/s1600/P4290116.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: #0066cc; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; orphans: 2; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1067" height="400" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Wuv8JrUMUrs/Wu3AvKBLArI/AAAAAAAAG-4/evSBEOngi0YSlDbRDmmePJUYawyEG6eZACLcBGAs/s400/P4290116.JPG" width="266" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Complimentary earplugs</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Five years ago when we brought our bicycles with us, we had not known that the train from Osaka to the airport uncouples part way along the journey, with one half of the train going to Kansai Airport and the other half on down to Wakayama. When we discovered that we were on the wrong half of the train, we jumped off in a panic, dragging bicycles, pannier bags and various souvenirs with us. We had no time to get this lot down the platform and so we watched the train disappear on down to the airport without us while we waited for the next one.<br />
<br />
We therefore have no excuse for making this mistake again and yet we do. We are fooled by the fact that most of the passengers are carrying suitcases. <br />
'This must be the correct section', says Mick, plonking wearily into a seat.<br />
After a few stops I am not so sure and express my concern. 'The message on the intercom said the <i>front</i> carriages go to the airport. We are in the last carriage.' Mick dismisses me, waving his hand peremptorily. 'All these people with suitcases are not wrong,' he said, 'or maybe they are all going to Wakayama for their holidays?'<br />
In fact the number of people with suitcases is getting fewer with each stop the train makes. Eventually I march to the end of the carriage and ask the guard whether we are in the right carriage for the airport.<br />
'No, front, front', he says, pointing his white gloved hand to the front of the train.<br />
'I told you so,' I say smugly to Mick.<br />
'Not again,' he mutters, as he grabs his rucksack and we leg it down the platform and leap into the correct carriage. At least we are not dragging bicycles this time. Here I discover that the other passengers with suitcases have not been leaving the train as I thought, but have gradually been moving down to the correct section of the train.<br />
<br />
At the airport, to confirm going home is the correct decision, I learn that my nonagenarian aunt is very unwell and in hospital. A couple of hours later, we are on a crowded plane to Hong Kong, where we transfer for our flight to London.<br />
<br />
The first time I flew out of Kansai airport at the end of that bicycle trip around Shikoku five years ago, it had been with a massive sense of relief that I was going home. Cycling the pilgrimage had been much harder than I thought and we had left the pilgrimage route at Kochi. At the time I was certain I would never return.<br />
<br />
The second time, four years ago, I left with a huge feeling of achievement, having walked the entire route of the 88 Temple pilgrimage, every step, without using a bus or train once. I had loved the walk but it was done now and I could not imagine that I would ever return.<br />
<br />
Now, leaving for the third time, I reflect on the difficulties we experienced this time. Problems with my leg and worries about our families have clouded the trip from the outset. Sometimes, things are just not meant to be, and I need to accept this with grace and be grateful for the experience. And one thing I know for certain is that this is not my last visit to Shikoku. <br />
<br />
I am already planning when I can return.<br />
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-O3lzbRqJ-8c/Wu3EnyXoJcI/AAAAAAAAG_s/74X_NGf98HklGr_zNrsoBpiQYa1Fa6UbgCLcBGAs/s1600/P4150320.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-O3lzbRqJ-8c/Wu3EnyXoJcI/AAAAAAAAG_s/74X_NGf98HklGr_zNrsoBpiQYa1Fa6UbgCLcBGAs/s320/P4150320.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br /></div>
Elliehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07671617922958041389noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2705526479207156981.post-8930967599216876152018-04-24T16:37:00.000+01:002018-04-24T16:39:03.123+01:00Saijo and Niihama<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Friday 20 April<br />
<br />
After our efforts yesterday climbing to Yokomineji, today we decide to be content with a 15k amble to Saijo. Along the route today are temples 61-64<br />
<br />
<a href="https://en.japantravel.com/ehime/koon-ji-temple-in-saijo/1382">Temple 61, Koonji,</a> is unusual - the main building is a huge brown concrete building which looks more attractive than it sounds. Visitors can enter the main hall of the temple via a flight of steps on the side of the building where rows of red velvet seats face the altar. We sit for a while n the front row, resting and admiring the lavish gold decoration of the temple and the golden statue of Buddha.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-4NZngWFb4d4/Wt9HRRLXejI/AAAAAAAAG-I/re0R5DbSeXEMoiIlljQLJ2VU04UnXT7TwCLcBGAs/s1600/P4170029.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: #0066cc; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; orphans: 2; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-4NZngWFb4d4/Wt9HRRLXejI/AAAAAAAAG-I/re0R5DbSeXEMoiIlljQLJ2VU04UnXT7TwCLcBGAs/s400/P4170029.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<b><br /></b>
I am not too sure what is going on at Hojuji, Number 62. In the car park of Temple 61 there is a temporary office for Number 62, where pilgrims can obtain a stamp to show proof of visiting. According to our guidebook this is because Temple 62 does not welcome pilgrims from certain bus companies (many pilgrims visit the temples on specially organised bus tours). Temple 62 is also the only temple that does not belong to the Shikoku pilgrimage temple association. We remember this temple from four years ago; then it was a sorry sight, uncared for and dirty. <span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; display: inline; float: none; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; text-align: left; text-decoration: none; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; display: inline; float: none; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; text-align: left; text-decoration: none; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;">To refuse to welcome pilgrims does not seem in keeping with the spirit of the Shikoku 88 Pilgrimage and as </span>we have elected not to bring a</span><i style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: italic; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; orphans: 2; text-align: left; text-decoration: none; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"> nokyocho - </i><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; display: inline; float: none; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; text-align: left; text-decoration: none; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"> pilgrimage stamp book - on this occasion and we are not visiting all the temples anyway, we decide not to visit Hojuji. </span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; display: inline; float: none; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; text-align: left; text-decoration: none; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><br /></span>
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; display: inline; float: none; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; text-align: left; text-decoration: none; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;">Instead we visit the launderette on the opposite side of the road. The place has window blinds so I quickly remove all my gear and don my over-trousers and rain jacket and chuck everything into the washing machine. In the meantime, Mick goes off to the local convenience store to buy some coffee. He is a little worried on his return, to see a police car with flashing light parked outside the launderette and me in conversation with the police officer. The officer nods and smiles to me and drives off and Mick turns to me. </span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; display: inline; float: none; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; text-align: left; text-decoration: none; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;">'Everything ok? What did the police want?'. </span><br />
<span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; display: inline; float: none; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; text-align: left; text-decoration: none; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"></span><span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; display: inline; float: none; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; text-align: left; text-decoration: none; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"> 'Don't know, he emptied a box outside the launderette then came in for a chat.'</span><br />
'Are you sure he was ok? I thought you were getting arrested.'<br />
Not long afterwards another policeman, this time on a motorbike, parks up and comes into the launderette, wishes us good luck and then disappears again.<br />
'Now what did <i>he</i> want? says Mick perplexed. 'That's two of them. How odd.'<br />
I shrug. 'No idea. But they seem friendly.'<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-cmuw8Tkf8Ig/Wt9Crrc0m_I/AAAAAAAAG74/wd73ufdcCdwTKzHsnD27G4rXqtq_N3zjwCLcBGAs/s1600/P4200001.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: #0066cc; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; orphans: 2; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-cmuw8Tkf8Ig/Wt9Crrc0m_I/AAAAAAAAG74/wd73ufdcCdwTKzHsnD27G4rXqtq_N3zjwCLcBGAs/s400/P4200001.JPG" width="300" /></a></div>
<b><br /></b>
<b></b><i></i><u></u><sub></sub><sup></sup><strike></strike><br />
The next temple is only a short walk away so, with our clothes now delightfully fresh, we visit Kichoji and then head on towards 64, Maegamiji. Just before the temple is a huge tori gate which leads to <a href="https://en.japantravel.com/ehime/ishizuchi-shrine-head-shrine/1381">Ishizuchi Shrine</a>. This is the first of four parts to this shrine; two more are located on the mountainside and the final part is on Mt Ishizuchi-san itself. It is a beautiful shrine and worth the additional steps we have to climb to reach it. <br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-84dgBnUE-KQ/Wt9GmW0AfxI/AAAAAAAAG9Y/--W-XUP2wg4qQg5Omqc5ouI4vPgtNXJsACLcBGAs/s1600/P4200010.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: #0066cc; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; orphans: 2; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-84dgBnUE-KQ/Wt9GmW0AfxI/AAAAAAAAG9Y/--W-XUP2wg4qQg5Omqc5ouI4vPgtNXJsACLcBGAs/s400/P4200010.JPG" width="300" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-VQJ_u6AGf8w/Wt9Gmfq5QsI/AAAAAAAAG9U/O-LVzjaIrI0R9Hr89blsKCRpHMPPba0GQCLcBGAs/s1600/P4200011.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: #0066cc; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; orphans: 2; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-VQJ_u6AGf8w/Wt9Gmfq5QsI/AAAAAAAAG9U/O-LVzjaIrI0R9Hr89blsKCRpHMPPba0GQCLcBGAs/s400/P4200011.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<b><br /></b>
<br />
I like the wooden <i>tengu,</i> supernatural beings known for their long red noses. <br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-7yF8_1aNW6Q/Wt9GfpxHV1I/AAAAAAAAG9M/JVTLJe2x9vMylFwc9Wipog1aR3yE0z-fwCLcBGAs/s1600/P4200006.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: #0066cc; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; orphans: 2; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-7yF8_1aNW6Q/Wt9GfpxHV1I/AAAAAAAAG9M/JVTLJe2x9vMylFwc9Wipog1aR3yE0z-fwCLcBGAs/s400/P4200006.JPG" width="300" /></a></div>
<br />
<b><br /></b>
<br />
<br />
Mick says he can detect a resemblance...<br />
<br />
<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-xMg590ZOAuY/Wt9C80Jg2XI/AAAAAAAAG8E/hyvjogDmwPkfwFNiE0eKMH823KMSG5P7ACLcBGAs/s1600/P4200015.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; clear: right; color: #0066cc; float: right; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; orphans: 2; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-xMg590ZOAuY/Wt9C80Jg2XI/AAAAAAAAG8E/hyvjogDmwPkfwFNiE0eKMH823KMSG5P7ACLcBGAs/s320/P4200015.JPG" width="240" /></a><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-G6m0zwhLKVg/Wt9C9MAfkSI/AAAAAAAAG8M/WpcWBgQa0KwkrciBbwq8rOVokSDAFEAZACLcBGAs/s1600/P4200014.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: #0066cc; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-left: 16px; margin-right: 16px; orphans: 2; text-align: center; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-G6m0zwhLKVg/Wt9C9MAfkSI/AAAAAAAAG8M/WpcWBgQa0KwkrciBbwq8rOVokSDAFEAZACLcBGAs/s320/P4200014.JPG" width="240" /></a><br />
<b></b><i></i><u></u><sub></sub><sup></sup><strike></strike><b></b><i></i><u></u><sub></sub><sup></sup><strike></strike><br />
<br />
We head into Saijo after visiting Temple 64. <br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-IbT8WjcwAbI/Wt9C-U4_aTI/AAAAAAAAG8Q/Mo3RBiUlbOQSPvmzK1J-PwtlHOxqqyKAgCLcBGAs/s1600/P4200017.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: #0066cc; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; orphans: 2; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-IbT8WjcwAbI/Wt9C-U4_aTI/AAAAAAAAG8Q/Mo3RBiUlbOQSPvmzK1J-PwtlHOxqqyKAgCLcBGAs/s400/P4200017.JPG" width="300" /></a></div>
<br />
<b><br /></b>
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-OWK0E8wOOL4/Wt9C-Ry-kfI/AAAAAAAAG8U/eWuR8CgP0YcZCvu2yC0ocXlQ9Agc8LtoQCLcBGAs/s1600/P4200018.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: #0066cc; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; orphans: 2; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="266" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-OWK0E8wOOL4/Wt9C-Ry-kfI/AAAAAAAAG8U/eWuR8CgP0YcZCvu2yC0ocXlQ9Agc8LtoQCLcBGAs/s400/P4200018.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<b><br /></b>
Saijo is an industrial town - as far as we can tell there is not a huge amount here for the visitor - but it does have good water. Saijo is famous for its spring water which can be obtained around the city at <i><a href="https://setouchifinder.com/en/detail/354">uchinki</a> </i>water fountains and we fill our bottles before heading down to the banks of the Kamo River to camp for the night.<br />
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<b>Saijo Water Fountains</b></div>
<b><br /></b>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-g478yR1zjBk/Wt9CPeREVCI/AAAAAAAAG7g/awruEb72JrEG7-XzSz2thRyhtSxtIgyEACLcBGAs/s1600/P4180050.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: #0066cc; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; orphans: 2; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-g478yR1zjBk/Wt9CPeREVCI/AAAAAAAAG7g/awruEb72JrEG7-XzSz2thRyhtSxtIgyEACLcBGAs/s400/P4180050.JPG" width="300" /></a></div>
<b><br /></b>
<br />
<div style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; orphans: 2; text-align: left; text-decoration: none; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/--PDYMrFRpPs/Wt9CPWdZWZI/AAAAAAAAG7k/2yAEQS1c6ngd7tWx-6_0ut7K4gAMPgtZwCLcBGAs/s1600/P4180051.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: #0066cc; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; orphans: 2; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/--PDYMrFRpPs/Wt9CPWdZWZI/AAAAAAAAG7k/2yAEQS1c6ngd7tWx-6_0ut7K4gAMPgtZwCLcBGAs/s400/P4180051.JPG" width="300" /></a></div>
<div style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-variant: normal; letter-spacing: normal; margin: 0px; orphans: 2; text-align: left; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;">
<br /></div>
<div style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; orphans: 2; text-align: left; text-decoration: none; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;">
<b><br /></b></div>
<div style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; orphans: 2; text-align: left; text-decoration: none; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-eNaNQfV1fCo/Wt9CPeLA9AI/AAAAAAAAG7o/4jYNMIKZjCwDe5-Kzz7FpXMvFCjepvI0wCLcBGAs/s1600/P4180052.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: #0066cc; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; orphans: 2; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-eNaNQfV1fCo/Wt9CPeLA9AI/AAAAAAAAG7o/4jYNMIKZjCwDe5-Kzz7FpXMvFCjepvI0wCLcBGAs/s400/P4180052.JPG" width="300" /></a></div>
<div style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-variant: normal; letter-spacing: normal; margin: 0px; orphans: 2; text-align: left; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-PJlWkh6eLZs/Wt9G4Z1u5WI/AAAAAAAAG9o/sZpSUqm2MnUopiWfRbOMdhR7DU0alrJlgCLcBGAs/s1600/P4200022.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: #0066cc; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; orphans: 2; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-PJlWkh6eLZs/Wt9G4Z1u5WI/AAAAAAAAG9o/sZpSUqm2MnUopiWfRbOMdhR7DU0alrJlgCLcBGAs/s400/P4200022.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<div style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-variant: normal; letter-spacing: normal; margin: 0px; orphans: 2; text-align: left; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;">
<br /></div>
<div style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; orphans: 2; text-align: left; text-decoration: none; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;">
<b><br /></b></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-v9yeASl7SEs/Wt9G4V4RkEI/AAAAAAAAG9s/AfOeWbDZFpIILGdfW6dxw-KTcJj53qlgACLcBGAs/s1600/P4200023.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: #0066cc; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; orphans: 2; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-v9yeASl7SEs/Wt9G4V4RkEI/AAAAAAAAG9s/AfOeWbDZFpIILGdfW6dxw-KTcJj53qlgACLcBGAs/s320/P4200023.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
<div style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-variant: normal; letter-spacing: normal; margin: 0px; orphans: 2; text-align: left; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;">
<br /></div>
<div style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; orphans: 2; text-align: left; text-decoration: none; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;">
<br /></div>
<div style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; orphans: 2; text-align: left; text-decoration: none; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;">
As the sun dips below the horizon, a cloud of bats come from the trees to feed and we enjoy watching them swooping and diving for their prey before turning in for the night.<b><i></i></b></div>
<b></b><i></i><u></u><sub></sub><sup></sup><strike></strike><br />
The <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Japan_Median_Tectonic_Line">Median Tectonic Line</a> is Japan's longest fault line and it runs right through the north of Shikoku island. The result is a mountain range which rises abruptly from the flat coastal plain leaving only a thin slice of land between mountain and sea. As we make our way east, we walk along this plain with the mountains rising up on our right hand side. The route is for the most part along quiet residential streets behind the main Route 11. <span style="background-color: transparent; color: black; display: inline; float: none; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; text-align: left; text-decoration: none; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;">Mick complains I am hogging the map so I allow him to navigate for a brief time but it doesn't last. He soon gets bored of checking the map and I get exasperated at his lacksadaisical approach and so we agree I will be in charge of the map.</span><br />
<b><br /></b>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-gL4R3wPJNOM/Wt9GZSEPvyI/AAAAAAAAG9I/nEiVht1mUfcKGr72srk3Co8gC4HBinfhQCLcBGAs/s1600/P4180038.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: #0066cc; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; orphans: 2; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-gL4R3wPJNOM/Wt9GZSEPvyI/AAAAAAAAG9I/nEiVht1mUfcKGr72srk3Co8gC4HBinfhQCLcBGAs/s400/P4180038.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I allow Mick to navigate...we are soon lost</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
We are now in Niihama, location of the Besshi copper mine. The mine dominated this area for three hundred years until it closed in 1973 and was the primary source of wealth for the Sumitomo family, now one of the largest companies in Japan.<br />
<br />
We leave the pilgrimage route to walk up a traffic free cycle path, along the line of the Old Dozan Railway. A left turn at the top brought us to Oyamazumi Shrine and the Besshi Copper Mine Memorial Museum, established by the Sumitomo Group to mark to the closure of the museum. There is no entry fee and the exhibits and photographs offer a fascinating glimpse of life in the mountains behind us when 10,000 people lived and worked the mines here. Afterwards we take a short walk up the valley. Farther on, the industrial remains of the mines are now becoming a tourist attraction.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-UVU9aTgKUzU/Wt9GT9kV7BI/AAAAAAAAG9E/Peac7ptChX0NxigdgLFgRRw5ze3bwJJVwCLcBGAs/s1600/P4210044.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: #0066cc; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; orphans: 2; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-UVU9aTgKUzU/Wt9GT9kV7BI/AAAAAAAAG9E/Peac7ptChX0NxigdgLFgRRw5ze3bwJJVwCLcBGAs/s400/P4210044.JPG" width="300" /></a></div>
<b></b><i></i><u></u><sub></sub><sup></sup><strike></strike><br />
<b></b><i></i><u></u><sub></sub><sup></sup><strike></strike><br />
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qcm9913BrY8/Wt9Cz3DmDlI/AAAAAAAAG78/BgJhTqh7YWklX3IKHM84uxFoJMl9f82iACLcBGAs/s1600/P4210042.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: #0066cc; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; orphans: 2; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qcm9913BrY8/Wt9Cz3DmDlI/AAAAAAAAG78/BgJhTqh7YWklX3IKHM84uxFoJMl9f82iACLcBGAs/s400/P4210042.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<b></b><br />
That night we once again camp alongside a river, this time the river is the Ashitani. The bats are here too although not so plentiful as at the Kamo River, and the sound of water running over the stones in the shallows is therapeutic as we go to sleep.<br />
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-8A0SLUof7Ig/Wt9DQQBvfPI/AAAAAAAAG8o/1yRnsQ6GzaErIMx0tbKLZUSFophf63iswCLcBGAs/s1600/P4210052.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: #0066cc; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; orphans: 2; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-8A0SLUof7Ig/Wt9DQQBvfPI/AAAAAAAAG8o/1yRnsQ6GzaErIMx0tbKLZUSFophf63iswCLcBGAs/s400/P4210052.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<b></b><i></i><u></u><sub></sub><sup></sup><strike></strike><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="color: #000120;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ckBeClPuesM/Wt9DQbIdAkI/AAAAAAAAG8s/CTNICY1c6x0JhwnysgOi0y1jGYO7nPkAQCLcBGAs/s1600/P4210050.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: #0066cc; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-left: 16px; margin-right: 16px; orphans: 2; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ckBeClPuesM/Wt9DQbIdAkI/AAAAAAAAG8s/CTNICY1c6x0JhwnysgOi0y1jGYO7nPkAQCLcBGAs/s400/P4210050.JPG" width="400" /></a><b></b><i></i><u></u><sub></sub><sup></sup><strike></strike></span></div>
<b></b><i></i><u></u><sub></sub><sup></sup><strike></strike><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<u><span style="color: #000120;"><br /></span></u></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="color: #000120;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-az8yvuPeySA/Wt9G6Nq3OCI/AAAAAAAAG94/LqEKdDpIaN8qj6BBx_9BhVstAiMPOTESwCLcBGAs/s1600/P4200026.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: #0066cc; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-left: 16px; margin-right: 16px; orphans: 2; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-az8yvuPeySA/Wt9G6Nq3OCI/AAAAAAAAG94/LqEKdDpIaN8qj6BBx_9BhVstAiMPOTESwCLcBGAs/s400/P4200026.JPG" width="400" /></a><b></b><i></i><u></u><sub></sub><sup></sup><strike></strike></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<u><span style="color: #000120;"><b></b><i></i><sub></sub><sup></sup><strike></strike><br /></span></u></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<u><span style="color: #000120;"><br /></span></u></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2AWnh9iejPw/Wt9C9ApYuvI/AAAAAAAAG8I/zmcAUlVjD-4PGVux-hDqmIRS_TVX-z5RACLcBGAs/s1600/P4200016.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2AWnh9iejPw/Wt9C9ApYuvI/AAAAAAAAG8I/zmcAUlVjD-4PGVux-hDqmIRS_TVX-z5RACLcBGAs/s400/P4200016.JPG" width="300" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<u><span style="color: #000120;"><br /></span></u></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<br />
<i><br /></i>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<u><span style="color: #000120;"><br /></span></u></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<u><span style="color: #000120;"><br /></span></u></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<u><span style="color: #000120;"><br /></span></u></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<u><span style="color: #000120;"><br /></span></u></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<u><span style="color: #000120;"><br /></span></u></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<u><span style="color: #000120;"><br /></span></u></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<u><span style="color: #000120;"><br /></span></u></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<u><span style="color: #000120;"><br /></span></u></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<u><span style="color: #000120;"><br /></span></u></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<u><span style="color: #000120;"><br /></span></u></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<u><span style="color: #000120;"><br /></span></u></div>
<br />
<br />
<i><b><br /></b></i>
</div>
Elliehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07671617922958041389noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2705526479207156981.post-73044669665983909072018-04-22T10:05:00.002+01:002018-04-23T00:39:20.215+01:00Imabari to Yokomineji<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Monday 15 April - The breeze off the sea is welcome - the temperature is beginning to ramp up now and is in the mid 20s although the nights are still a bit chilly in my summer climate sleeping bag.<br />
<br />
We are off the 'official' route and walking along the coastal path. To start with the route passes around a harbour with pleasant gardens but as we head down the coast road the houses disappear and are replaced with a line of derelict hotels, no doubt victims of the fancy new hotels at Yanoura Heights, high on the ridge above us. <br />
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Pd7ie8QrHfg/WtxBdXiZ7vI/AAAAAAAAG44/M2erQDG9Tkgr58kjQseeWxI1CW_dDtekgCLcBGAs/s1600/20180416_085032.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: #0066cc; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; orphans: 2; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Pd7ie8QrHfg/WtxBdXiZ7vI/AAAAAAAAG44/M2erQDG9Tkgr58kjQseeWxI1CW_dDtekgCLcBGAs/s400/20180416_085032.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">We stop to admire this man's beautiful garden</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-uaRL1P3OIsE/WtxBd0gSgjI/AAAAAAAAG48/ZHPvoMPZqHIDDYmkFmfajWm6r8sD8mX6wCLcBGAs/s1600/20180416_085012.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: #0066cc; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; orphans: 2; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-uaRL1P3OIsE/WtxBd0gSgjI/AAAAAAAAG48/ZHPvoMPZqHIDDYmkFmfajWm6r8sD8mX6wCLcBGAs/s400/20180416_085012.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<b><br /></b>
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-qZNOJK6z0HA/Wtw8QrAeaPI/AAAAAAAAG3o/Vk4QyHokQ-ImhcQJ20dLVVUkDHYp7NjSACLcBGAs/s1600/P4160328.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="background-color: transparent; color: #0066cc; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-qZNOJK6z0HA/Wtw8QrAeaPI/AAAAAAAAG3o/Vk4QyHokQ-ImhcQJ20dLVVUkDHYp7NjSACLcBGAs/s400/P4160328.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A derelict hotel</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
The road becomes more overgrown and then turns into a sandy track which is getting ever narrower. Bound by cliffs on one side and the sea on the other, we are just beginning to think - horrors - that we will have to turn around and retrace our steps when we suddenly find ourselves in a smart campsite with brand new sinks supplied with soap and washing up liquid. Joy! We take the opportunity to wash our smalls in the sinks and hang them in the sun for a while.<br />
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-66kfTrrRZ8s/WtxBZIXujnI/AAAAAAAAG40/FslH26_PrdgJp4iQ2G2lj8ozBTolHr-hwCLcBGAs/s1600/20180416_110641.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: #0066cc; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; orphans: 2; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-66kfTrrRZ8s/WtxBZIXujnI/AAAAAAAAG40/FslH26_PrdgJp4iQ2G2lj8ozBTolHr-hwCLcBGAs/s400/20180416_110641.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lovely campsite!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
We are heading towards Saijo city now; making our way towards the next temple which is inland and up a mountain. We camp in a local park again that evening, and plan to have a quiet day the following day.<br />
<br />
A rest day gives us chance to catch up on chores such as -<br />
<br />
Hanging out the washing:<br />
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-DaCPoBzc7x4/Wtw8b36NRTI/AAAAAAAAG3w/Tp9UHNG7iD0znzpcKVVFmQWHxjsn7u0cACLcBGAs/s1600/P4170018.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-DaCPoBzc7x4/Wtw8b36NRTI/AAAAAAAAG3w/Tp9UHNG7iD0znzpcKVVFmQWHxjsn7u0cACLcBGAs/s400/P4170018.JPG" width="300" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
Doing the housework:<br />
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-tLBTpgy0BNQ/Wtw8bhM-BLI/AAAAAAAAG3s/id3NS5VcDKkXrE9l_fuxK7Cew0Eweec4QCLcBGAs/s1600/P4170019.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-tLBTpgy0BNQ/Wtw8bhM-BLI/AAAAAAAAG3s/id3NS5VcDKkXrE9l_fuxK7Cew0Eweec4QCLcBGAs/s400/P4170019.JPG" width="300" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
And the washing up:<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-oGKFapFjack/Wtw8l-fe2SI/AAAAAAAAG34/c8F_xBg1OXo2Tll-WAV-UKd0vhD5MuHMwCLcBGAs/s1600/P4170021.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-oGKFapFjack/Wtw8l-fe2SI/AAAAAAAAG34/c8F_xBg1OXo2Tll-WAV-UKd0vhD5MuHMwCLcBGAs/s400/P4170021.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
The weather is fantastic for the climb up to Temple 60, Yokomineji. The route heads up a long river valley along a quiet road which eventually terminates at a hut. From here a steep flight of steps are the route on for a 450 metre climb up to the temple which sits near the top of the mountain at 750 metres above sea level.<br />
<br />
A few cars are parked here and we talk to one man who tells us he climbs up to the top of this peak every week. He waves to us and sets off briskly up the steps while we labour slowly behind him us carrying our big backpacks.<br />
<br />
The path is well maintained and is enjoyable to walk. </div>
</div>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lf-4XKK-3iY/WtqcXh72MuI/AAAAAAAAG3E/JHrjOK10S80CnBvFyJyqj7iPvREKxr9UgCLcBGAs/s1600/P4190072.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: #0066cc; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; orphans: 2; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lf-4XKK-3iY/WtqcXh72MuI/AAAAAAAAG3E/JHrjOK10S80CnBvFyJyqj7iPvREKxr9UgCLcBGAs/s400/P4190072.JPG" width="300" /></a></div>
<br />
<b></b><i></i><u></u><sub></sub><sup></sup><strike></strike><br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-NAHkyL7torc/WtqcZaPokZI/AAAAAAAAG3M/I8uoTa0TN4YFCnkINWqr8y2Lo5H0pJTVwCLcBGAs/s1600/P4190075.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: #0066cc; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; orphans: 2; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-NAHkyL7torc/WtqcZaPokZI/AAAAAAAAG3M/I8uoTa0TN4YFCnkINWqr8y2Lo5H0pJTVwCLcBGAs/s400/P4190075.JPG" width="300" /></a></div>
<br />
<b><br /></b>
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zlNlk8k71RM/WtxBgxnqzOI/AAAAAAAAG5A/KycTk5vbBd8juOTOJW7u5Chj7Sdm1cMogCLcBGAs/s1600/20180419_111231.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: #0066cc; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; orphans: 2; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zlNlk8k71RM/WtxBgxnqzOI/AAAAAAAAG5A/KycTk5vbBd8juOTOJW7u5Chj7Sdm1cMogCLcBGAs/s400/20180419_111231.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>
<br />
<b><br /></b>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-QUAolYhOAeQ/WtxBg8jalfI/AAAAAAAAG5E/ZZDMbftYm9cUav4XwHp8DF5EoDtDLa-HwCLcBGAs/s1600/20180419_102052.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: #0066cc; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; orphans: 2; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-QUAolYhOAeQ/WtxBg8jalfI/AAAAAAAAG5E/ZZDMbftYm9cUav4XwHp8DF5EoDtDLa-HwCLcBGAs/s400/20180419_102052.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>
<b></b><i></i><u></u><sub></sub><sup></sup><strike></strike><br />
<u><span style="color: #000120;"><br /></span></u>
<a href="https://yourpilgrimageinjapan.com/the-shikoku-pilgrimage-ii/temples-57-64/temple-60/">Yokomineji Temple</a> was quiet with only a few pilgrims present when we reached the top. The site is small and serene, and the air refreshingly cool after the heat of the plains below.<br />
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ua6sOuSQ6fs/WtxEbIKyjXI/AAAAAAAAG5c/IbpPkDfnteYdR4F-NUhyX9bXQWHxLeCUQCLcBGAs/s1600/P4190094.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ua6sOuSQ6fs/WtxEbIKyjXI/AAAAAAAAG5c/IbpPkDfnteYdR4F-NUhyX9bXQWHxLeCUQCLcBGAs/s400/P4190094.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-yVa3kvttGHQ/WtxEbWVUpLI/AAAAAAAAG5k/vB3Dql6MJ5IdesO9ltu6_U6gsfFjbBQZACLcBGAs/s1600/P4190095.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-yVa3kvttGHQ/WtxEbWVUpLI/AAAAAAAAG5k/vB3Dql6MJ5IdesO9ltu6_U6gsfFjbBQZACLcBGAs/s400/P4190095.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-TGPhdm_sdkA/WtxEcqxVXEI/AAAAAAAAG5o/NXv43bf-00MfEYiD-nh1dgaXbtoJrFb3gCLcBGAs/s1600/P4190097.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-TGPhdm_sdkA/WtxEcqxVXEI/AAAAAAAAG5o/NXv43bf-00MfEYiD-nh1dgaXbtoJrFb3gCLcBGAs/s400/P4190097.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SrlytZQrazI/WtxEc-c1LXI/AAAAAAAAG5s/riQjWvSKwssZNij8_z67wOMluzRncduswCLcBGAs/s1600/P4190098.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SrlytZQrazI/WtxEc-c1LXI/AAAAAAAAG5s/riQjWvSKwssZNij8_z67wOMluzRncduswCLcBGAs/s400/P4190098.JPG" width="300" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-gbXkf3zwRmA/WtxEdItKKrI/AAAAAAAAG5w/6R2acaPZrqckN8Lfd8N3XnnNxh6IYASSACLcBGAs/s1600/P4190099.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-gbXkf3zwRmA/WtxEdItKKrI/AAAAAAAAG5w/6R2acaPZrqckN8Lfd8N3XnnNxh6IYASSACLcBGAs/s400/P4190099.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-9uLJhdv0EeM/WtxEeGGSTDI/AAAAAAAAG50/njXfCr92sUsmVVHPNXZtLxGHS9fbQqG1QCLcBGAs/s1600/P4190100.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-9uLJhdv0EeM/WtxEeGGSTDI/AAAAAAAAG50/njXfCr92sUsmVVHPNXZtLxGHS9fbQqG1QCLcBGAs/s400/P4190100.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-dL5SQt8AO-8/WtxEeiqE0KI/AAAAAAAAG54/aauXcBE5KI0GhM1m34sOp_1XqDKUrNFiACLcBGAs/s1600/P4190102.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-dL5SQt8AO-8/WtxEeiqE0KI/AAAAAAAAG54/aauXcBE5KI0GhM1m34sOp_1XqDKUrNFiACLcBGAs/s400/P4190102.JPG" width="300" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
At the temple, another pilgrim advises us that the view of Mt.Ishizuchi is particularly good today which spurs us on to climb another 600 metres up the track from the temple to Hoshigamori. The pilgrim was right, the views are breathtaking.<br />
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Fs8fr0L8lG0/WtqcQOHTO0I/AAAAAAAAG20/-8N0Fs1jvhIRx9Shw89Pv4GQWgQqHTk4ACLcBGAs/s1600/20180419_115916.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: #0066cc; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; orphans: 2; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Fs8fr0L8lG0/WtqcQOHTO0I/AAAAAAAAG20/-8N0Fs1jvhIRx9Shw89Pv4GQWgQqHTk4ACLcBGAs/s400/20180419_115916.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<b></b><i></i><u></u><sub></sub><sup></sup><strike></strike><br />
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-34l4KZVfTMw/WtxFhcBXAGI/AAAAAAAAG6g/y6XyRunG1dY2rSSIpjYxBjueLgwbcfZLACLcBGAs/s1600/P4190087.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-34l4KZVfTMw/WtxFhcBXAGI/AAAAAAAAG6g/y6XyRunG1dY2rSSIpjYxBjueLgwbcfZLACLcBGAs/s400/P4190087.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-XwVd4U5LiHI/WtxFi3NveMI/AAAAAAAAG6s/Rqy4UHysvf8HTXedW9Hc-xNQ5etzgconwCLcBGAs/s1600/P4190089.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-XwVd4U5LiHI/WtxFi3NveMI/AAAAAAAAG6s/Rqy4UHysvf8HTXedW9Hc-xNQ5etzgconwCLcBGAs/s400/P4190089.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
There is a trail down the back of the mountain from here which takes you on to Mt Ishizuchi-san but sadly this will have to wait for another time. </div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Instead we follow another trail which leads out the other side of the temple towards Komatsu Oasis. We do not like this trail much. It is narrow and high with vertiginous drops. We are both keenly aware that to topple off here would be an end to the walk and possible an end to everything else as well. Mick, much to my surprise given his vertigo, makes no comment and follows behind me without saying a word. We both know there is no going back now and so we are committed to heading down, come what may. </div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
The route follows what appears to be an old streamway and is uneven and steep. But eventually the path mellows and becomes a pleasant and undulating walk through pine forests. On the lower slopes, bright flashes of azaleas line the route. </div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-vB97ENxqQSk/WtxFLQwZEdI/AAAAAAAAG6Y/L4kgxa9IOeEdfuhJNMOsUd5LUcG8CQvBwCLcBGAs/s1600/P4190107.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: #0066cc; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; orphans: 2; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-vB97ENxqQSk/WtxFLQwZEdI/AAAAAAAAG6Y/L4kgxa9IOeEdfuhJNMOsUd5LUcG8CQvBwCLcBGAs/s400/P4190107.JPG" style="cursor: move;" width="400" /></a></div>
<div>
<b><br /></b></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YaB78OEAkPA/WtqcFj54tVI/AAAAAAAAG2o/w6YQugFK9MQYg7K45Wc1MZRgUYbktrXQACLcBGAs/s1600/P4190110.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: #0066cc; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; orphans: 2; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YaB78OEAkPA/WtqcFj54tVI/AAAAAAAAG2o/w6YQugFK9MQYg7K45Wc1MZRgUYbktrXQACLcBGAs/s400/P4190110.JPG" style="cursor: move;" width="400" /></a></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<b></b><b><br /></b></div>
<br />
<div>
At a break in the trees we can see the route we took this morning up through the valley: </div>
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ISMRKwsEcfk/WtqcK8WkFlI/AAAAAAAAG2w/uDH5aE7juM0IoUuKwHSsdU94xgkirpWDACLcBGAs/s1600/P4190103.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: #0066cc; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; orphans: 2; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ISMRKwsEcfk/WtqcK8WkFlI/AAAAAAAAG2w/uDH5aE7juM0IoUuKwHSsdU94xgkirpWDACLcBGAs/s400/P4190103.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
Once down we head straight to Komatsu Onsen and reward our efforts with a long soak in the hot springs in baths with views across Saijo before a tasty meal in the restaurant and a beer.<br />
<br />
The final treat of the day is a marvellous sunset as we settle down in our tent for the night. Today has been a good day.<b><br /></b><br />
<b></b><i></i><u></u><sub></sub><sup></sup><strike></strike><br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-EEL2NUj0K6k/WtxGJpdIMSI/AAAAAAAAG7E/NnRHeNI-cVEAaAdNUAPYtWtFVYW_z0BxwCLcBGAs/s1600/P4180056.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="background-color: transparent; color: #0066cc; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-EEL2NUj0K6k/WtxGJpdIMSI/AAAAAAAAG7E/NnRHeNI-cVEAaAdNUAPYtWtFVYW_z0BxwCLcBGAs/s400/P4180056.JPG" style="cursor: move;" width="400" /></a></div>
<b></b><br />
<b><br /></b>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<u><span style="color: #000120;"></span></u><br />
<b></b><i></i><u></u><sub></sub><sup></sup><strike></strike><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<b></b><i></i><u></u><sub></sub><sup></sup><strike></strike><br />
<b></b><i></i><u></u><sub></sub><sup></sup><strike></strike><br />
<br />
<u><span style="color: #000120;"></span></u><br />
<b></b><i></i><u></u><sub></sub><sup></sup><strike></strike><br />
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<u><span style="color: #000120;"><br /></span></u></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<u><span style="color: #000120;"><br /></span></u></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<u><span style="color: #000120;"><br /></span></u></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<u><span style="color: #000120;"><br /></span></u></div>
<br />
<br /></div>
Elliehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07671617922958041389noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2705526479207156981.post-85041843097205568602018-04-17T02:54:00.002+01:002018-04-17T05:30:52.529+01:00From Matsuyama to Imabari<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Thursday 12 April. We walk out of Matsuyama heading northwest towards the coast. Soon the square concrete blocks of houses and neon lights give way to square rice fields and wooden houses with roofs of blue or silver-grey tile.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-XRK5zd8b7hk/WtVNTchpoOI/AAAAAAAAG0w/tbUjQAg5VzcZonu_uuijBlEbGsZjBuyMwCLcBGAs/s1600/P4160333.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-XRK5zd8b7hk/WtVNTchpoOI/AAAAAAAAG0w/tbUjQAg5VzcZonu_uuijBlEbGsZjBuyMwCLcBGAs/s320/P4160333.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
We are heading for Temple 52, Taisanji, around 10 kilometres away. Along the way we pass a reservoir where clusters of turtles are warming up on the concrete bank. As we walk past they all take to the water - plop, plop, plop - dozens of little black heads bob up and down on the surface of the green water. After we have walked by I pause and look back. One by one the turtles are resuming their positions, scrambling back up onto the warm concrete.<br />
<br />
Taisanji is set in woods a short climb from the road. As we make our way up to the temple a man in a car calls out to us. 'Osettai, osettai! Please wait!' He pulls into the carpark and jumps out of his car. Going round to the boot he opens it and fishes out two oranges for us. We thank him, and he then gives us two biscuits as well. Then he reaches into his boot again and brings out a large notebook. He opens it and shows us the contents. It is full of messages and photographs of foreign henro who he has met over the years. Arita San has been offering osettai to foreign henro for almost 20 years and has been keeping a record of their country of origin. He is also trying to get more signs in English to help foreign henro. We all visit the temple together.<br />
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-WuIGjrt68C0/WtR_IhI24OI/AAAAAAAAGyE/boiuLm0eiGUpVxuTnyGnHHLMalLEv1eXgCLcBGAs/s1600/P4120228.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: #0066cc; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; orphans: 2; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-WuIGjrt68C0/WtR_IhI24OI/AAAAAAAAGyE/boiuLm0eiGUpVxuTnyGnHHLMalLEv1eXgCLcBGAs/s400/P4120228.JPG" width="300" /></a></div>
<br />
<b><br /></b>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ArXHkatoMho/WtR_IjvIWDI/AAAAAAAAGyI/VuqfMci2qQo0Gu6he-BRzJD8G3PsLZzGgCLcBGAs/s1600/P4120230.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: #0066cc; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; orphans: 2; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ArXHkatoMho/WtR_IjvIWDI/AAAAAAAAGyI/VuqfMci2qQo0Gu6he-BRzJD8G3PsLZzGgCLcBGAs/s400/P4120230.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<b><br /></b>
<b></b><i></i><u></u><sub></sub><sup></sup><strike></strike><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Q9eAjbcty_8/WtR_XrBIuyI/AAAAAAAAGyU/Ex9KEHvqg_o95lOzRBGahrjBryAfxNW2QCLcBGAs/s1600/20180412_135456.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="background-color: transparent; color: #0066cc; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Q9eAjbcty_8/WtR_XrBIuyI/AAAAAAAAGyU/Ex9KEHvqg_o95lOzRBGahrjBryAfxNW2QCLcBGAs/s400/20180412_135456.jpg" style="cursor: move;" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-qnfU_WxOpuk/WtR_KkbaZWI/AAAAAAAAGyM/Fg5_huXUkzkNDxvxRZPq580zrklhf8lxgCLcBGAs/s1600/P4120232.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: #0066cc; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; orphans: 2; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-qnfU_WxOpuk/WtR_KkbaZWI/AAAAAAAAGyM/Fg5_huXUkzkNDxvxRZPq580zrklhf8lxgCLcBGAs/s400/P4120232.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<b></b><b></b><i></i><u></u><sub></sub><sup></sup><strike></strike><b></b><i></i><u></u><sub></sub><sup></sup><strike></strike><br />
After we wave Arita San goodbye we head off towards Temple 53 just a short distance away and then begin to consider our accommodation for the night. Small local parks are always a good bet - they almost always have toilets and a water fountain and nobody seems to mind. We find a park just off the main road and once it is dark we settle down for the night.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-9ejXvEKKORo/WtR-5EolFtI/AAAAAAAAGxs/MfIty44xleILMaNa4WCl4ND_PogdV01yQCLcBGAs/s1600/P4130243.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: #0066cc; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; orphans: 2; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-9ejXvEKKORo/WtR-5EolFtI/AAAAAAAAGxs/MfIty44xleILMaNa4WCl4ND_PogdV01yQCLcBGAs/s400/P4130243.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<b><br /></b>
<b></b><i></i><u></u><sub></sub><sup></sup><strike></strike><br />
Stealth camping has its downsides - one of which is that in order not to be a nuisance we aim to be away not long after dawn. (I won't call it 'wild camping' - the only 'wild' thing about our camping last night was the colour of the children's play equipment).<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bdkKhfsjvtE/WtR-4ws7ueI/AAAAAAAAGxo/3yShSViutz0IuXHsNZSFq9frI7-VjbBHgCLcBGAs/s1600/P4120242.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: #0066cc; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; orphans: 2; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bdkKhfsjvtE/WtR-4ws7ueI/AAAAAAAAGxo/3yShSViutz0IuXHsNZSFq9frI7-VjbBHgCLcBGAs/s400/P4120242.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<b><br /></b>
<b><br /></b>
So the next morning the alarm goes off at 05.30am and we are up and gone by 06.30 am before too many people are around. Today's walk is mostly along the coast. The weather is superb, bright and sunny but with a cool breeze, perfect for hiking. We are heading towards the northern coast of Shikoku which is the islands more industrially developed and populous side, being closer to the larger island of Honshu.<br />
<br />
We reach a small town called Kikuma and the road is lined with tile factories. The town is famed for its decorative roof tiles and at the back of the town, set into the hillside is the Kikuma Roof Tile Museum. We camp near here under wisteria trees for the night. <br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-kTkKCJrYqdo/WtR-9eMB81I/AAAAAAAAGx0/T_r0JrWav5wQprnxbQWdntVoNd2Vre2bACLcBGAs/s1600/P4130256.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="background-color: transparent; color: #0066cc; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-kTkKCJrYqdo/WtR-9eMB81I/AAAAAAAAGx0/T_r0JrWav5wQprnxbQWdntVoNd2Vre2bACLcBGAs/s400/P4130256.JPG" style="cursor: move;" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tile Museum</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<b><br /></b>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-kWr4DisxAr4/WtR-9m_mRuI/AAAAAAAAGx4/LoCMYCQ9ORAlK2ZakkZ9c_n-sXJTo9SvgCLcBGAs/s1600/P4130254.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="background-color: transparent; color: #0066cc; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-kWr4DisxAr4/WtR-9m_mRuI/AAAAAAAAGx4/LoCMYCQ9ORAlK2ZakkZ9c_n-sXJTo9SvgCLcBGAs/s320/P4130254.JPG" style="cursor: move;" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<b><br /></b>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-MhIT_JPRYU4/WtR-9fv914I/AAAAAAAAGxw/Mzdbiy4xQgQtxjZeZcG0dyW3pDnPm_KKACLcBGAs/s1600/P4130255.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="background-color: transparent; color: #0066cc; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-MhIT_JPRYU4/WtR-9fv914I/AAAAAAAAGxw/Mzdbiy4xQgQtxjZeZcG0dyW3pDnPm_KKACLcBGAs/s320/P4130255.JPG" style="cursor: move;" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<b><br /></b>
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-BgPg_xluxq4/WtR-_CTwy0I/AAAAAAAAGx8/ZKno7-gWUo4x3w_iZu9r_BpZI7nSyiZhQCLcBGAs/s1600/P4140258.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="background-color: transparent; color: #0066cc; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-BgPg_xluxq4/WtR-_CTwy0I/AAAAAAAAGx8/ZKno7-gWUo4x3w_iZu9r_BpZI7nSyiZhQCLcBGAs/s320/P4140258.JPG" style="cursor: move;" width="300" /></a></div>
<br />
<b><br /></b>
<br />
We are heading towards Imabari, an industrial port on the north of the island. On the way into the city we reach Shikoku's answer to Milford Haven, a huge oil refinery which dominates the skyline. Right next to the site is a small temple, dwarfed by the huge metal towers, a stark reminder of the juxtaposition between ancient and modern which is a constant feature of this walk.<br />
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-h-eMaL2y3gg/WtU-RNwPtsI/AAAAAAAAG0E/r8Z5Fc-87o0S1rpj90r3sa8sggR6FYezQCLcBGAs/s1600/P4140262.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-h-eMaL2y3gg/WtU-RNwPtsI/AAAAAAAAG0E/r8Z5Fc-87o0S1rpj90r3sa8sggR6FYezQCLcBGAs/s320/P4140262.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-TLOXRQg1g9Y/WtU-Q2HNdPI/AAAAAAAAG0A/hGNSojk_D0gOqIyccCAX65xgxh0ji-3fwCLcBGAs/s1600/P4140263.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-TLOXRQg1g9Y/WtU-Q2HNdPI/AAAAAAAAG0A/hGNSojk_D0gOqIyccCAX65xgxh0ji-3fwCLcBGAs/s320/P4140263.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
Imabari is also the starting point for the <a href="https://www.japan-guide.com/e/e3478.html">Shiminami Kaido</a>, a magnificent cycle route which crosses six islands via seven fantastic bridges. You can read about my 2013 cycle trip on the Shiminami Kaido <a href="https://elliestravelstories.blogspot.jp/search/label/Shimanami%20Kaidō">HERE</a>. Bicycles are now easy to hire for those who want to cycle the route, which you can read more about <a href="http://www.cyclonoie.com/shimanami-tobishima-e/renatal.php">HERE</a>.<br />
<br />
As we enter Imabari, Mick's watch bleeps a storm warning. I am dubious about Mick's watch. It tells us we are 6 metres under the sea when I know for a fact I am sitting on a hill, it cannot tell you which way is north without Mick performing an elaborate figure-of-eight movement with his arm for ten minutes and the walking distances it comes up with are barmy. So I take the warning with a pinch of salt.<br />
<br />
But as we head into Imabari large drops of rain start to fall. By the time we reach the centre of the city it is tipping with rain. There is nothing much to do in Imabari at 5pm when its raining so we mooched about a while, hanging about under covered walkways and in the ferry terminal until it was getting dark. We set up the tent in a local park and went to sleep listening to the rain splattering on the tent.<br />
<br />
In the morning it has stopped raining. We are up at 06.0am and Mick announces he is going to the local conbini (convenience store) for a coffee. (Convenience stores in Japan have good food and all the general necessities for daily life. They have coffee machines and kettles of hot water. They have toilets which are invariably spotless and many have seating areas and charging points. They are open 24 hours a day. As a traveller, convenience stores are a godsend.)<br />
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-xUPUpzTVWd0/WtVOYsEjFrI/AAAAAAAAG1A/YS_JPT2o5k0AiYNrGJKS5znBN6Hfq0-nwCLcBGAs/s1600/P4140279.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-xUPUpzTVWd0/WtVOYsEjFrI/AAAAAAAAG1A/YS_JPT2o5k0AiYNrGJKS5znBN6Hfq0-nwCLcBGAs/s320/P4140279.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Giant propeller in the centre of Imabari</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9FWZnJC29G8/WtVOfTEPyYI/AAAAAAAAG1E/gUtzdjCCOqgEfvWLODh-oUQsvi9Fmut5QCLcBGAs/s1600/P4140274.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9FWZnJC29G8/WtVOfTEPyYI/AAAAAAAAG1E/gUtzdjCCOqgEfvWLODh-oUQsvi9Fmut5QCLcBGAs/s320/P4140274.JPG" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cemetary Imabari</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-DsfGIYx0MeQ/WtVOndpJhsI/AAAAAAAAG1I/XyLrwUsChOosWBQ5SNQXcXhRnJTifSC7wCLcBGAs/s1600/P4150283.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-DsfGIYx0MeQ/WtVOndpJhsI/AAAAAAAAG1I/XyLrwUsChOosWBQ5SNQXcXhRnJTifSC7wCLcBGAs/s320/P4150283.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-iUlyk2c3q9M/WtVOnolhfaI/AAAAAAAAG1Q/V0XowyTnRtooTBxeAuNWubmRk1HvFFYdQCLcBGAs/s1600/P4150284.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-iUlyk2c3q9M/WtVOnolhfaI/AAAAAAAAG1Q/V0XowyTnRtooTBxeAuNWubmRk1HvFFYdQCLcBGAs/s320/P4150284.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-99sTUcYqliA/WtVOnvbbwAI/AAAAAAAAG1M/-KLf9F4du-YF5hZnMYnWvgIE_C75JQkgwCLcBGAs/s1600/P4150285.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-99sTUcYqliA/WtVOnvbbwAI/AAAAAAAAG1M/-KLf9F4du-YF5hZnMYnWvgIE_C75JQkgwCLcBGAs/s320/P4150285.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
With no sense of timing I suggest to Mick that we could save some money by brewing our own coffee, here in the (very wet) park. 'No booze, no bed, no bath and now you want to deny me <i>coffee?</i>' he says incredulously. Hmm, perhaps he is right, I could be taking this ascetism too far. I follow him over the road to the convenience store.<br />
<br />
It is Sunday 15 April and we are now heading out of Imabari. At the first temple of the day we are sitting watching people praying or lighting candles, and generally enjoying the peacefulness when a tall Westerner wearing a bandanna appears. He heads to the bell tower and rings the bell, as is the custom when arriving at a temple. The sound reverberates around the grounds but not satisfied, the guy grabs the rope attached to the large piece of wood which acts as a hammer and this time rams it even harder onto the bell. 'Oh my god!' I mutter, putting my hands on my ears. <br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<u><span style="color: #000120;"><br /></span></u></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ojP2SGPK9yE/WtVS6I44lbI/AAAAAAAAG1w/YVDYNobGflAsP3NtCaDwruw1Wi_UfEQNwCLcBGAs/s1600/20180415_130216.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ojP2SGPK9yE/WtVS6I44lbI/AAAAAAAAG1w/YVDYNobGflAsP3NtCaDwruw1Wi_UfEQNwCLcBGAs/s320/20180415_130216.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4AiRbjl_7eg/WtVS5oZuRQI/AAAAAAAAG1s/V9UEP72TtsosIV6bTF2ALfBvRTID1YMLgCLcBGAs/s1600/20180415_130302.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4AiRbjl_7eg/WtVS5oZuRQI/AAAAAAAAG1s/V9UEP72TtsosIV6bTF2ALfBvRTID1YMLgCLcBGAs/s320/20180415_130302.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
<br />
Just then the head priest walks by. Noisy Guy strides over to him and grabs his purple robes. 'Hey man, nice colour!' he exclaims. To his credit, the priest is restrained and simply nods and walks on. A Japanese couple lean over and explain that the priest is very famous. 'He wrote a book which has been made into a film.'<br />
'IS THAT SO?' yells Noisy Guy. 'SO I GUESS I SHOULD BE HONOURED, HUH?'<br />
I couldn't take any more. 'Come on,' I said to Mick. 'Let's go.'<br />
<br />
The next temple, Senyuji, is 250 metres up a mountain road. Resting in a hut we meet Thomas, a softly spoken young man from Sydney, Australia who tells us he had been saving for this trip for a long time. At the top of the road just before the temple we meet a lovely young Japanese couple. Both encounters are a welcome antidote to Noisy Guy and help restore my equanimity.<br />
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-I_g8TzEgq4A/WtR_ri5cfaI/AAAAAAAAGy4/GPHr3I3lSJoCur_-TEV6YNF3Stv6VGvYQCLcBGAs/s1600/P4150308.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: #0066cc; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; orphans: 2; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-I_g8TzEgq4A/WtR_ri5cfaI/AAAAAAAAGy4/GPHr3I3lSJoCur_-TEV6YNF3Stv6VGvYQCLcBGAs/s400/P4150308.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<b><br /></b>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-DI4ddY2s62M/WtR_pQZqOhI/AAAAAAAAGyw/CuGEMp4Te4IyL_K2stt5xf_xBA7Qb3zZwCLcBGAs/s1600/P4150306.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: #0066cc; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; orphans: 2; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-DI4ddY2s62M/WtR_pQZqOhI/AAAAAAAAGyw/CuGEMp4Te4IyL_K2stt5xf_xBA7Qb3zZwCLcBGAs/s400/P4150306.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-6GSqUCPB5_Y/WtVSlGZpFUI/AAAAAAAAG1o/y3X7-eNA5LYqoVEXeQxTJXVU8TPvjljowCLcBGAs/s1600/P4150304.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: #0066cc; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; orphans: 2; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-6GSqUCPB5_Y/WtVSlGZpFUI/AAAAAAAAG1o/y3X7-eNA5LYqoVEXeQxTJXVU8TPvjljowCLcBGAs/s400/P4150304.JPG" width="300" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-F_FH9rrj7X8/WtVS6ZJEEKI/AAAAAAAAG10/UcJJeyNlvqQSTUlo3xKw9eLDlukkeKdlgCLcBGAs/s1600/20180415_125443.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: #0066cc; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; orphans: 2; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-F_FH9rrj7X8/WtVS6ZJEEKI/AAAAAAAAG10/UcJJeyNlvqQSTUlo3xKw9eLDlukkeKdlgCLcBGAs/s400/20180415_125443.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>
<b></b><i></i><u></u><sub></sub><sup></sup><strike></strike><br />
<b><i></i><u></u><sub></sub><sup></sup><strike></strike><br /></b>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-nRlBq7pQL6s/WtSAMl2cWBI/AAAAAAAAGzU/YzPT1XajDGQ9vYjPIdlhRMA7g-tb3Zg2QCLcBGAs/s1600/P4150313.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: #0066cc; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; orphans: 2; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-nRlBq7pQL6s/WtSAMl2cWBI/AAAAAAAAGzU/YzPT1XajDGQ9vYjPIdlhRMA7g-tb3Zg2QCLcBGAs/s400/P4150313.JPG" width="300" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-s5DyTXLjPJk/WtSAMggxE3I/AAAAAAAAGzY/9x5ei2Cvd-EPlRDfDca64fhSrWouYYT1wCLcBGAs/s1600/P4150314.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: #0066cc; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; orphans: 2; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-s5DyTXLjPJk/WtSAMggxE3I/AAAAAAAAGzY/9x5ei2Cvd-EPlRDfDca64fhSrWouYYT1wCLcBGAs/s400/P4150314.JPG" width="300" /></a></div>
<b></b><i></i><u></u><sub></sub><sup></sup><strike></strike><br />
<div>
<b></b><i></i><u></u><sub></sub><sup></sup><strike></strike><b></b><i></i><u></u><sub></sub><sup></sup><strike></strike><b></b><i></i><u></u><sub></sub><sup></sup><strike><br /></strike></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-4B-BHm_YSRA/WtVMl-ittmI/AAAAAAAAG0c/D8dKKscIrnc5i3gD_le6iaPn-dDGXWEpgCLcBGAs/s1600/P4150317.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: #0066cc; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; orphans: 2; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-4B-BHm_YSRA/WtVMl-ittmI/AAAAAAAAG0c/D8dKKscIrnc5i3gD_le6iaPn-dDGXWEpgCLcBGAs/s400/P4150317.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<b></b><i></i><u></u><sub></sub><sup></sup><strike></strike><br />
After the final temple of the day. Kokubunji, Number 59, we decide to head out towards the coast at Sakurai to find a spot to camp for the night. <br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-hnJMSgOEpuY/WtR_9L7wSZI/AAAAAAAAGzE/9bLnuuMfn203SdPzmu80p-pY1rjsky8-wCLcBGAs/s1600/P4150320.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: #0066cc; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; orphans: 2; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-hnJMSgOEpuY/WtR_9L7wSZI/AAAAAAAAGzE/9bLnuuMfn203SdPzmu80p-pY1rjsky8-wCLcBGAs/s400/P4150320.JPG" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Shaking hands with Kobo Daishi</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
We find a great spot next to the beach. A local couple are walking their dog and we ask whether it is ok to camp here. They tell us it is no problem. For once we can set up before nightfall which gives us chance to dry the tent and - luxury! - we decide it will be fine NOT to get up at the crack of dawn and we turn off our alarms.<br />
<br />
It is the evening of the 4th day since we left Matsuyama (Sunday 15 April) and we have walked around 70km. An average of 15-20km per day suits us both and my leg seems happy too.<br />
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ihglCxBkrh8/WtR_pCQ5jYI/AAAAAAAAGyk/ZuCcrn9Nr9Y-kW1-tVYM2pBq0PEzBwtNwCLcBGAs/s1600/P4150305.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ihglCxBkrh8/WtR_pCQ5jYI/AAAAAAAAGyk/ZuCcrn9Nr9Y-kW1-tVYM2pBq0PEzBwtNwCLcBGAs/s400/P4150305.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="color: #000120;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-up12QYLEjdo/WtR_1hDtA1I/AAAAAAAAGy8/RioR7ouTlXgNUBSeF7IN1tF26rs6lwV5wCLcBGAs/s1600/P4150323.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: #0066cc; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-left: 16px; margin-right: 16px; orphans: 2; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-up12QYLEjdo/WtR_1hDtA1I/AAAAAAAAGy8/RioR7ouTlXgNUBSeF7IN1tF26rs6lwV5wCLcBGAs/s400/P4150323.JPG" width="400" /></a></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<u><span style="color: #000120;"><b><br /></b></span></u></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mO2e8AAzREg/WtVTxZk5ZjI/AAAAAAAAG2I/W8DCf9moAaAjxNmANTvSZKZ1h-uLSY55ACLcBGAs/s1600/P4150325%2B%25282%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mO2e8AAzREg/WtVTxZk5ZjI/AAAAAAAAG2I/W8DCf9moAaAjxNmANTvSZKZ1h-uLSY55ACLcBGAs/s400/P4150325%2B%25282%2529.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<b></b><i></i><u></u><sub></sub><sup></sup><strike></strike><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<u><span style="color: #000120;"><b><br /></b></span></u></div>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<u><span style="color: #000120;"><br /></span></u></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<u><span style="color: #000120;"><br /></span></u></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<u><span style="color: #000120;"><br /></span></u></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<u><span style="color: #000120;"><br /></span></u></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<u><span style="color: #000120;"><br /></span></u></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<u><span style="color: #000120;"><br /></span></u></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<u><span style="color: #000120;"><br /></span></u></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<u><span style="color: #000120;"><br /></span></u></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<u><span style="color: #000120;"><br /></span></u></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<u><span style="color: #000032;"><br /></span></u></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<u><span style="color: #000050;"><br /></span></u></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<u><span style="color: #000120;"><br /></span></u></div>
<br /></div>
Elliehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07671617922958041389noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2705526479207156981.post-14482256777917142832018-04-16T01:33:00.002+01:002018-04-16T01:33:26.988+01:00Ishiteji, Temple 51 Matsuyama<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Temple 51 of the 88 Temple Shikoku Pilgrimage is <a href="https://www.japan-guide.com/e/e5503.html">Ishite-ji</a>. Situated on the edge of Matsuyama, not far from the famous Dogo Onsen, it is one of the most fascinating and intriguing temples on the pilgrimage. You can read the story of the temple <a href="https://yourpilgrimageinjapan.com/the-shikoku-pilgrimage-ii/temples-49-56/temple-51/">HERE</a><br />
<u><span style="color: #000120;"></span></u><br />
It's many buildings sprawl across a large area - the temple has two museums, a cave and an inner temple outside the main complex which is unlike any other, and the site is packed with an apparently random collection of statues, relics and carvings. <br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CH_gYbs2Qzs/WtKM59KvPiI/AAAAAAAAGw4/ah9lqKtLVYowwq6F42DJ20x13VUV0h-fgCLcBGAs/s1600/P4090090.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: #0066cc; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; orphans: 2; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CH_gYbs2Qzs/WtKM59KvPiI/AAAAAAAAGw4/ah9lqKtLVYowwq6F42DJ20x13VUV0h-fgCLcBGAs/s400/P4090090.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<b><br /></b>
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6TLQcMChKB4/WtKF81JIUPI/AAAAAAAAGvc/WZ0gvMqiBJIqTGIO1b_Fq4zd1qS47uwOACLcBGAs/s1600/P4090044.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: #0066cc; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; orphans: 2; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-6TLQcMChKB4/WtKF81JIUPI/AAAAAAAAGvc/WZ0gvMqiBJIqTGIO1b_Fq4zd1qS47uwOACLcBGAs/s400/P4090044.JPG" width="300" /></a></div>
<b><br /></b>
<b></b><i></i><u></u><sub></sub><sup></sup><strike></strike><br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-GQc1Wq08dm4/WtKB8OaaCAI/AAAAAAAAGtA/OV3G6Q9ERNI5zmKKLTOV36bGQ65MAB6BgCLcBGAs/s1600/20180409_130758.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-GQc1Wq08dm4/WtKB8OaaCAI/AAAAAAAAGtA/OV3G6Q9ERNI5zmKKLTOV36bGQ65MAB6BgCLcBGAs/s400/20180409_130758.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Npm8P0f6vRE/WtKM1INvptI/AAAAAAAAGww/P40S8QK2ecQscWgQR9EvFdg8XkMFWziYACLcBGAs/s1600/P4090083.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: #0066cc; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; orphans: 2; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Npm8P0f6vRE/WtKM1INvptI/AAAAAAAAGww/P40S8QK2ecQscWgQR9EvFdg8XkMFWziYACLcBGAs/s400/P4090083.JPG" width="300" /></a></div>
<br />
<b><br /></b>
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-4uqrYFPTilQ/WtKM1PJR5QI/AAAAAAAAGw0/NoiZiDNpHWQT7y87lPuXg4mL-f6R29ZTgCLcBGAs/s1600/P4090084.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: #0066cc; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; orphans: 2; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-4uqrYFPTilQ/WtKM1PJR5QI/AAAAAAAAGw0/NoiZiDNpHWQT7y87lPuXg4mL-f6R29ZTgCLcBGAs/s320/P4090084.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
<br />
<b><br /></b>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-8zurIuYFZbk/WtKB9VF-uRI/AAAAAAAAGtI/K9d5WvFb7YMCLa0TBlUIttXFG5y9aaA3wCLcBGAs/s1600/20180409_131117.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-8zurIuYFZbk/WtKB9VF-uRI/AAAAAAAAGtI/K9d5WvFb7YMCLa0TBlUIttXFG5y9aaA3wCLcBGAs/s400/20180409_131117.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-tuSqILE9qKo/WtKB9OPK5QI/AAAAAAAAGtE/t4ysTvD6HRUPknOIlENEUGn_gVDlmsupgCLcBGAs/s1600/20180409_140618.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-tuSqILE9qKo/WtKB9OPK5QI/AAAAAAAAGtE/t4ysTvD6HRUPknOIlENEUGn_gVDlmsupgCLcBGAs/s400/20180409_140618.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-0mMdBJIcaGs/WtKCAXCIJQI/AAAAAAAAGtM/b8-W3XMELZ0T2o7FNdmCRz3SuSqxVVyVACLcBGAs/s1600/20180409_140637.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-0mMdBJIcaGs/WtKCAXCIJQI/AAAAAAAAGtM/b8-W3XMELZ0T2o7FNdmCRz3SuSqxVVyVACLcBGAs/s400/20180409_140637.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<b><br /></b></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-CCCemha8OOg/WtKIen0k0bI/AAAAAAAAGv8/6jQPVaLEFpYbCF6DDia_Z049I7hwHz7xACLcBGAs/s1600/P4090046.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1370" height="400" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-CCCemha8OOg/WtKIen0k0bI/AAAAAAAAGv8/6jQPVaLEFpYbCF6DDia_Z049I7hwHz7xACLcBGAs/s400/P4090046.JPG" width="342" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<b><br /></b></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-DDUqDFr_eL0/WtKCCHj04dI/AAAAAAAAGtQ/G7n0442niNIQUncm-l-h9NJK_aHOU3w1ACLcBGAs/s1600/20180409_141600.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-DDUqDFr_eL0/WtKCCHj04dI/AAAAAAAAGtQ/G7n0442niNIQUncm-l-h9NJK_aHOU3w1ACLcBGAs/s400/20180409_141600.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Lx_Nfj0vOb8/WtKCPkauJiI/AAAAAAAAGtU/jLFKwyOwYyEjgiI6GnVarO5CQyekCNAyQCLcBGAs/s1600/P4090085.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Lx_Nfj0vOb8/WtKCPkauJiI/AAAAAAAAGtU/jLFKwyOwYyEjgiI6GnVarO5CQyekCNAyQCLcBGAs/s400/P4090085.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ncac1OCPCj0/WtKGN6bjLjI/AAAAAAAAGvk/mGa3KF1Z7Ws179xr48uYH6vDQT2djs-GgCLcBGAs/s1600/P4090050.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: #0066cc; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; orphans: 2; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ncac1OCPCj0/WtKGN6bjLjI/AAAAAAAAGvk/mGa3KF1Z7Ws179xr48uYH6vDQT2djs-GgCLcBGAs/s400/P4090050.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-0tvwWt3ZPh4/WtKCfmDOK0I/AAAAAAAAGts/YYNPPMAdi60Pe0-H2ihwJ1p4zlH1GnAhgCLcBGAs/s1600/P4110184%2B%25281%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: #0066cc; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; orphans: 2; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-0tvwWt3ZPh4/WtKCfmDOK0I/AAAAAAAAGts/YYNPPMAdi60Pe0-H2ihwJ1p4zlH1GnAhgCLcBGAs/s400/P4110184%2B%25281%2529.JPG" width="300" /></a></div>
<br />
<b><br /></b>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-PUJZVHVbvbM/WtKCfo30aaI/AAAAAAAAGto/yEo2aBNLO18yPPytj6Q_o26wvh7b2N26ACLcBGAs/s1600/P4110183.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: #0066cc; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; orphans: 2; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-PUJZVHVbvbM/WtKCfo30aaI/AAAAAAAAGto/yEo2aBNLO18yPPytj6Q_o26wvh7b2N26ACLcBGAs/s400/P4110183.JPG" width="300" /></a></div>
<b><br /></b>
<br />
At the rear of the temple is a door:<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
<b><br /></b>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vTjWcKVA1Gg/WtKJrcb0uXI/AAAAAAAAGwI/v9DypZ5250gyaNAXrtIVPvLv1-n4XrG8gCLcBGAs/s1600/P4090057.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vTjWcKVA1Gg/WtKJrcb0uXI/AAAAAAAAGwI/v9DypZ5250gyaNAXrtIVPvLv1-n4XrG8gCLcBGAs/s400/P4090057.JPG" width="300" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
<br />
Which leads into a long and dimly lit tunnel lined with small statues of Jizo Bosatsu:<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xFb79kRpOhM/WtKDRCtJyYI/AAAAAAAAGuY/PB76c5pSX2UewVd5oaS-RtxgauGVZeqcACLcBGAs/s1600/P4110174%2B%25281%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: #0066cc; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; orphans: 2; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xFb79kRpOhM/WtKDRCtJyYI/AAAAAAAAGuY/PB76c5pSX2UewVd5oaS-RtxgauGVZeqcACLcBGAs/s400/P4110174%2B%25281%2529.JPG" width="300" /></a></div>
<b></b><i></i><u></u><sub></sub><sup></sup><strike></strike><br />
<b></b><i></i><u></u><sub></sub><sup></sup><strike></strike><br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-kKieJQnIvh0/WtKDQ-c8yFI/AAAAAAAAGuU/sWhsSPNWbhwIqnP7sz1KiuMfEHq2LlkoQCLcBGAs/s1600/P4110173.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: #0066cc; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; orphans: 2; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-kKieJQnIvh0/WtKDQ-c8yFI/AAAAAAAAGuU/sWhsSPNWbhwIqnP7sz1KiuMfEHq2LlkoQCLcBGAs/s400/P4110173.JPG" width="300" /></a></div>
<div>
<b></b><i></i><u></u><sub></sub><sup></sup><strike><br /></strike></div>
<div>
<strike><br /></strike></div>
<div>
At the end of the tunnel is an exit onto a quiet road: </div>
<div>
<strike><br /></strike></div>
<div>
<u><span style="color: #000120;"><br /></span></u></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YjcYsiXW46c/WtKNFxLmSpI/AAAAAAAAGw8/0Z19HZFYc3Y6SKPYeR26CSQ9OME_tFsOgCLcBGAs/s1600/P4090061.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"></a><span style="color: #000120;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YjcYsiXW46c/WtKNFxLmSpI/AAAAAAAAGw8/0Z19HZFYc3Y6SKPYeR26CSQ9OME_tFsOgCLcBGAs/s1600/P4090061.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: #0066cc; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-left: 16px; margin-right: 16px; orphans: 2; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YjcYsiXW46c/WtKNFxLmSpI/AAAAAAAAGw8/0Z19HZFYc3Y6SKPYeR26CSQ9OME_tFsOgCLcBGAs/s400/P4090061.JPG" width="400" /></a></span></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Ye8vGPbDWwA/WtKMAjPJcYI/AAAAAAAAGwc/yO5ec8i07i0fOzfTY8MqnB-bsjVTT-k7QCLcBGAs/s1600/P4090064.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: #0066cc; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; orphans: 2; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1243" data-original-width="1600" height="310" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Ye8vGPbDWwA/WtKMAjPJcYI/AAAAAAAAGwc/yO5ec8i07i0fOzfTY8MqnB-bsjVTT-k7QCLcBGAs/s400/P4090064.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<b><br /></b>
On the opposite side of the road is a pathway looked after by this fellow:<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-HTRGfKZjjek/WtKC6nfhLuI/AAAAAAAAGuE/SQGLH7vzRZArgUCZqII7FjT_ou_Tn62KQCLcBGAs/s1600/P4090063.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: #0066cc; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; orphans: 2; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-HTRGfKZjjek/WtKC6nfhLuI/AAAAAAAAGuE/SQGLH7vzRZArgUCZqII7FjT_ou_Tn62KQCLcBGAs/s400/P4090063.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<b><br /></b>
<br />
Which leads to the strangest temple building of all. This is the inner temple. It is not generally open to visitors but is well worth a visit to see the building and the statues that line the walls outside.<br />
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TcLkrOmO3ZA/WtKDi6nrZbI/AAAAAAAAGuw/ly1WCuqZZAgNPfpSbeij0v79U9QkxnSUgCLcBGAs/s1600/P4110159.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: #0066cc; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; orphans: 2; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TcLkrOmO3ZA/WtKDi6nrZbI/AAAAAAAAGuw/ly1WCuqZZAgNPfpSbeij0v79U9QkxnSUgCLcBGAs/s400/P4110159.JPG" width="400" /></a><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-LjNIhUvEfek/WtPsgPPy9zI/AAAAAAAAGxU/QB3ey-kT2Nws2hLTZ5Pkw-DdYMXv-UIWgCLcBGAs/s1600/P4110158.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: #0066cc; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; orphans: 2; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-LjNIhUvEfek/WtPsgPPy9zI/AAAAAAAAGxU/QB3ey-kT2Nws2hLTZ5Pkw-DdYMXv-UIWgCLcBGAs/s400/P4110158.JPG" style="cursor: move;" width="300" /></a></div>
<b><i><br /></i></b>
<b><br /></b>
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-svx85c1W-vU/WtKDiobXPYI/AAAAAAAAGus/xxfIXBPByic6KNzC3cdUm079V8CIzxuggCLcBGAs/s1600/P4110160%2B%25281%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: #0066cc; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; orphans: 2; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-svx85c1W-vU/WtKDiobXPYI/AAAAAAAAGus/xxfIXBPByic6KNzC3cdUm079V8CIzxuggCLcBGAs/s400/P4110160%2B%25281%2529.JPG" width="300" /></a></div>
<b></b><i></i><u></u><sub></sub><sup></sup><strike></strike><br />
<b></b><i></i><u></u><sub></sub><sup></sup><strike></strike><br />
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-OxvTLbRCe0U/WtKDkF5PEDI/AAAAAAAAGu0/t2oKtuctH6YADYVZSOXGrW2iDV5DqIgbQCLcBGAs/s1600/P4110161%2B%25281%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: #0066cc; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; orphans: 2; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-OxvTLbRCe0U/WtKDkF5PEDI/AAAAAAAAGu0/t2oKtuctH6YADYVZSOXGrW2iDV5DqIgbQCLcBGAs/s400/P4110161%2B%25281%2529.JPG" width="300" /></a></div>
<b></b><i></i><u></u><sub></sub><sup></sup><strike></strike><br />
<b></b><i></i><u></u><sub></sub><sup></sup><strike></strike><br />
<br />
There is also a statue here of a emaciated Buddha:<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<u><span style="color: #000120;"><br /></span></u></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-yMW6-V2YEpI/WtPslPQVNCI/AAAAAAAAGxY/lmZM39pZphA5KO6m7QmUt0avVIqK0lRzgCLcBGAs/s1600/P4110161%2B%25282%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1196" height="320" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-yMW6-V2YEpI/WtPslPQVNCI/AAAAAAAAGxY/lmZM39pZphA5KO6m7QmUt0avVIqK0lRzgCLcBGAs/s320/P4110161%2B%25282%2529.JPG" width="239" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
Returning back through the cave, at the end you can turn left along another passage lined with statues and pictures looking strange and spooky in the dark.<br />
<br />
Emerging into the light:<br />
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-uCP-fKXQlfA/WtKCYxnRDOI/AAAAAAAAGtc/F4PNfDvoQ2scVyOM6v8DEj2pK1bhAfN2gCLcBGAs/s1600/P4090076.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: #0066cc; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; orphans: 2; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-uCP-fKXQlfA/WtKCYxnRDOI/AAAAAAAAGtc/F4PNfDvoQ2scVyOM6v8DEj2pK1bhAfN2gCLcBGAs/s400/P4090076.JPG" width="300" /></a></div>
<b></b><i></i><u></u><sub></sub><sup></sup><strike></strike><br />
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ERNy2-I200U/WtKCPviZiGI/AAAAAAAAGtY/S29wPCoOwccJif_abhn6luD6udUh0AR-wCLcBGAs/s1600/P4090086.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ERNy2-I200U/WtKCPviZiGI/AAAAAAAAGtY/S29wPCoOwccJif_abhn6luD6udUh0AR-wCLcBGAs/s400/P4090086.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<u><span style="color: #000120;"><br /></span></u></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<u><span style="color: #000120;"><br /></span></u></div>
For walking henro these steps indicate the route on out the back of the temple:<br />
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<u><span style="color: #000120;"><br /></span></u></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0wkBq8bowP8/WtKCzIBKyAI/AAAAAAAAGt4/k3d3ET5uTFodQLgnoxmT2fj6SfLBf8voQCLcBGAs/s1600/P4110187%2B%25281%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0wkBq8bowP8/WtKCzIBKyAI/AAAAAAAAGt4/k3d3ET5uTFodQLgnoxmT2fj6SfLBf8voQCLcBGAs/s320/P4110187%2B%25281%2529.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
You can read more about Ishiteji <u><span style="color: #000120;"><a href="https://www.japan-guide.com/e/e5503.html">HERE</a></span></u><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<u><span style="color: #000120;"><br /></span></u></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div>
I love this place.</div>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br /></div>
Elliehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07671617922958041389noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2705526479207156981.post-41629280061315604592018-04-13T06:36:00.001+01:002018-04-13T23:32:13.322+01:00Gardens and castles<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Saturday 7 April - It is still cold but at least it has stopped raining. My leg is almost back to normal and we have formulated a plan to head to Matsuyama on Sunday, stay there a few days and then walk part of the 88 temple pilgrimage from there back to Temple 1 at Bando. This walk is 360km - a manageable distance - and as there are good transport links along this section, if my leg decides to play up then we can always make use of the buses and the trains. <br />
<br />
When we walked the whole of the 88 temple pilgrimage four years ago, by the time we reached Matsuyama we were exhausted and in no state to do this last section of the pilgrimage justice and there are large parts of the route that I cannot remember at all - I must have been catatonic. It seems a good idea to revisit this part of the walk again and this time experience it properly rather than resenting every sodding, bastard kilometre,<br />
<br />
We spend our last full day at Takamatsu at <a href="https://www.japan-guide.com/e/e5401.html">Ritsurin Park</a>, one of Japan's best known gardens. The wind and rain have whisked away the delicate cherry blossom petals which now lie strewn across the floor under the avenue of trees, but the immaculately manicured pines and the meticulously designed lakes and bridges are a delight.<br />
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-z0riixWzGBY/WtALJePCEzI/AAAAAAAAGrA/BjEtOcchR50RmucWeTlImkKxtiuYat6DwCLcBGAs/s1600/Ritsuirn%2BGarden%2B10.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: #0066cc; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; orphans: 2; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-z0riixWzGBY/WtALJePCEzI/AAAAAAAAGrA/BjEtOcchR50RmucWeTlImkKxtiuYat6DwCLcBGAs/s400/Ritsuirn%2BGarden%2B10.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<b><br /></b>
<b><br /></b>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-g8ZS5fntxAY/WtALJmmZMeI/AAAAAAAAGrE/uYIs3rF-CGAkIZmanQJRAdKX_2B_BY5-gCLcBGAs/s1600/Ritsurin%2BGarden%2B2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: #0066cc; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; orphans: 2; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1049" data-original-width="1600" height="261" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-g8ZS5fntxAY/WtALJmmZMeI/AAAAAAAAGrE/uYIs3rF-CGAkIZmanQJRAdKX_2B_BY5-gCLcBGAs/s400/Ritsurin%2BGarden%2B2.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-QAHUBUc6DDs/WtALKq9IzLI/AAAAAAAAGrM/OxY5MR3hzEEan5EFpEP1DNbtLbWmCi7IACLcBGAs/s1600/Ritsurin%2BGarden%2B3.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: #0066cc; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; orphans: 2; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-QAHUBUc6DDs/WtALKq9IzLI/AAAAAAAAGrM/OxY5MR3hzEEan5EFpEP1DNbtLbWmCi7IACLcBGAs/s400/Ritsurin%2BGarden%2B3.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<b><i><u><br /></u></i></b>
On Sunday morning we visit the castle gardens at Takamatsu before we leave. The castle itself is no more, it was destroyed during the Meiji period, though the solid walls remain and have been extensively restored. The castle's situation was unusual in that it was built, not on top of a hill, like most Japanese castles, but on flat marshland adjacent to the sea, which floods the moat through a sluice gate in the grounds.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-GiMCCDEy_Z4/Ws_kAy8lJXI/AAAAAAAAGqs/JBQfZtPxxG4HGTS9xW1aHfbz73i5od3cgCLcBGAs/s1600/P4080031.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: #0066cc; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; orphans: 2; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-GiMCCDEy_Z4/Ws_kAy8lJXI/AAAAAAAAGqs/JBQfZtPxxG4HGTS9xW1aHfbz73i5od3cgCLcBGAs/s400/P4080031.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<b><br /></b>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Ogjt4rHTy00/WtANoFkZ2wI/AAAAAAAAGrk/EoFUZ6-vt44Z1ozaD-p9eSOpUgDgIfcRQCLcBGAs/s1600/P4080034.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: #0066cc; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; orphans: 2; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Ogjt4rHTy00/WtANoFkZ2wI/AAAAAAAAGrk/EoFUZ6-vt44Z1ozaD-p9eSOpUgDgIfcRQCLcBGAs/s400/P4080034.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Port at Takamatsu</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The train journey from Takamatsu to Matsuyama is a pleasure; the Yosan Line travels between mountains and sea for much of its length and offers us spectacular views of the mountains of central Shikoku including <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mount_Ishizuchi">Mount Ishizuchi</a>, the highest in western Japan and much loved and revered by the people of Shikoku.<br />
<br />
Matsuyama is a big city which acts like it's a small town. I don't know if it's the old-fashioned feel of the historical centre with the famous old baths at Dogo Onsen and the Botchan steam train that trundles around the streets, or whether its the relaxed way that people wander around the shops in their bathrobes, or whether it is just that wherever you are in the city you can generally see a green and tree-covered mountain or hill somewhere close by, but somehow Matsuyama feels like a cosy place despite the fact that it is home to half a million people.<br />
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-bottom: 8px; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; padding: 6px; text-align: center; text-decoration: none; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><tbody style="margin-bottom: 0px; padding-bottom: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;">
<tr style="margin-bottom: 0px; padding-bottom: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;"><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ZJrbsz9v9jU/Ws_kFjrEK5I/AAAAAAAAGqw/z1B2oWZ0ubcn47iZCkjdi3hmtoicFSAZwCLcBGAs/s1600/P4090093.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: #0066cc; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; orphans: 2; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ZJrbsz9v9jU/Ws_kFjrEK5I/AAAAAAAAGqw/z1B2oWZ0ubcn47iZCkjdi3hmtoicFSAZwCLcBGAs/s400/P4090093.JPG" style="cursor: move;" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr style="margin-bottom: 0px; padding-bottom: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;"><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px; padding-top: 4px; text-align: center;">Dogo Onsen</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-yXz6Pdn3mow/WtASWyoi6RI/AAAAAAAAGsQ/6oi_XX5Co5QzH2Q2bW3o2QC23JDsYnN_ACLcBGAs/s1600/P4100150.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: #0066cc; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; orphans: 2; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-yXz6Pdn3mow/WtASWyoi6RI/AAAAAAAAGsQ/6oi_XX5Co5QzH2Q2bW3o2QC23JDsYnN_ACLcBGAs/s400/P4100150.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Botchan train</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Normally at Matsuyama we stay at the fantastic <a href="http://senguesthouse-matsuyama.com/">Sen Guesthouse</a>, but the owners are out of town for a couple of days. So we plan to camp out for two nights and then stay at Sen for two nights. We tramp out along a long and busy road to a place which looks promising on the map - a park with toilets and a henro (pilgrim) rest hut. It turns out to be an overgrown graveyard with no toilets and no hut as far as we can see. <br />
<br />
Mick is not keen on camping here and announces he is going to pull out the credit card. 'I know we're on a budget Ellie, but we're not destitute. We can go into a hotel if necessary.' I know from experience there is no arguing with Mick once he has decided on something and anyway if he Mick is paying for the room why would I argue anyway?<br />
<br />
So we book two nights at the Number One Matsuyama Hotel. I don't imagine it is really the number one in Matsuyama- it is up against some pretty stiff competition and it only costs us (costs Mick) the equivalent of £70 per night for the two of us, but it is a very nice place and the buffet breakfast is fantastic. We stuff ourselves on rice, various forms of egg (raw, omelette and scrambled mixed with prawns), noodles, fried chicken, salad, tofu, sausage, tomatoes, seaweed and little fishes I don't know the name of and I also have <i>natto, </i>fermented soy beans<i>.</i> Mick doesn't have any<i> natto</i> as he says it looks like snot (which it does). <br />
<br />
Hotel Number One also has a<i> sento </i>(hot bath) on the roof. I stand in the hot water with my legs cooking gently and the rest of me feeling distinctly chilly as I peer over the neon roofs of Matsuyama city and think how lucky I am do be doing this right now, right here.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-cXAngux9OwU/WtASe_4ZmYI/AAAAAAAAGsU/eycdfWJx8MoYjPuOUJKw9xnVzakBdCI_wCLcBGAs/s1600/P4090042.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-cXAngux9OwU/WtASe_4ZmYI/AAAAAAAAGsU/eycdfWJx8MoYjPuOUJKw9xnVzakBdCI_wCLcBGAs/s400/P4090042.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Number 1 Hotel, Matsuyama</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Matsuyama has a fantastic castle and grounds and we spend a lovely day here. On the way out we get talking to a local retired man. He tells us he lives 8 kilometres away in south Matsuyama and that he walks to the castle and back as often as he can to keep himself fit. I am sure that regular exercise is one of the reasons for the famed longevity of the Japanese. At the cable car station he points to a box next to what looks like a rock. Inside the box are bundles of paper and he searches through them for some English ones and pulls two out triumphantly. 'I write a poem every time I come here', he tells us. The slips of paper have space for name and contact details and to write a <a href="https://www.creative-writing-now.com/how-to-write-a-haiku.html"><i>haiku</i> poem</a> - a three line poem of 5, 7 and 5 syllables. We have fun having a go at this and put our completed poems in the box. 'Make sure you put your address,' our friend tells us. 'In case you win a prize'. We both thought this highly unlikely but completed our details anyway.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mtiP-6Ds75U/Ws_fCdrh1UI/AAAAAAAAGpE/HsjL7s4bozYSUggrNrC1ZoGZ1qo7_71owCLcBGAs/s1600/P4100103.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: #0066cc; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; orphans: 2; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mtiP-6Ds75U/Ws_fCdrh1UI/AAAAAAAAGpE/HsjL7s4bozYSUggrNrC1ZoGZ1qo7_71owCLcBGAs/s400/P4100103.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Matsuyama Caste</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b><br /></b>
<b><br /></b>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-iZRoyHwmL1M/Ws_gSI-XzKI/AAAAAAAAGp0/p4Zc0_CcMyIAKAYuvmZx__KWs9mUh2lfACLcBGAs/s1600/20180410_112752.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: #0066cc; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; orphans: 2; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-iZRoyHwmL1M/Ws_gSI-XzKI/AAAAAAAAGp0/p4Zc0_CcMyIAKAYuvmZx__KWs9mUh2lfACLcBGAs/s400/20180410_112752.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<strike><b><br /></b></strike></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-GcDiyq2suQc/Ws_fOl6rXfI/AAAAAAAAGpM/rdep4B64Kc8V5IQqa40XxN5V0nJmdHO0gCLcBGAs/s1600/P4100106.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: #0066cc; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; orphans: 2; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-GcDiyq2suQc/Ws_fOl6rXfI/AAAAAAAAGpM/rdep4B64Kc8V5IQqa40XxN5V0nJmdHO0gCLcBGAs/s400/P4100106.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-_57sv2lXjgs/Ws_fOhFsaTI/AAAAAAAAGpI/L6Q41kUKUTkUSeKo6NaQ6xWrautTd7xawCLcBGAs/s1600/P4100107.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: #0066cc; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; orphans: 2; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-_57sv2lXjgs/Ws_fOhFsaTI/AAAAAAAAGpI/L6Q41kUKUTkUSeKo6NaQ6xWrautTd7xawCLcBGAs/s400/P4100107.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-I3in9xlGDts/Ws_gVEH2rwI/AAAAAAAAGp8/lUz2HGC4930lg_TtYcZa8WyczV0B8ZXEACLcBGAs/s1600/20180410_141303.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="background-color: transparent; color: #0066cc; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-I3in9xlGDts/Ws_gVEH2rwI/AAAAAAAAGp8/lUz2HGC4930lg_TtYcZa8WyczV0B8ZXEACLcBGAs/s400/20180410_141303.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Collecting the haiku forms</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div>
<b><br /></b></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-V_sRg8IL5pY/Ws_fWH0--aI/AAAAAAAAGpQ/0B7mIJGu1hY7ipPUGL83ixIH7M-xLRNhACLcBGAs/s1600/P4100131.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="background-color: transparent; color: #0066cc; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-V_sRg8IL5pY/Ws_fWH0--aI/AAAAAAAAGpQ/0B7mIJGu1hY7ipPUGL83ixIH7M-xLRNhACLcBGAs/s400/P4100131.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Posting our completed efforts</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div>
<br /></div>
Tuesday 10 April - Today we leave the Number One hotel and check in to Sen Guesthouse for two nights. This is the third time we have stayed here and it will be our last - Matthew and Noriko and their daughter Sana are moving to the island of Shodoshima in May. Matsuyama's loss will be Shodoshima's gain; many foreign pilgrims have been helped at Sen guesthouse over the years and it is a great place for meeting other walkers and travellers from around the world. <u><span style="color: #000120;"><br /></span></u><br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<u><span style="color: #000120;"><br /></span></u></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VtOxZgfkXhs/Ws_iu84b0YI/AAAAAAAAGqQ/1GIsSwaZtWgb66n5JPnLCmHyf9TI_6l3QCLcBGAs/s1600/P4110225.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: #0066cc; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; orphans: 2; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VtOxZgfkXhs/Ws_iu84b0YI/AAAAAAAAGqQ/1GIsSwaZtWgb66n5JPnLCmHyf9TI_6l3QCLcBGAs/s400/P4110225.JPG" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">On the roof at Sen Guisthouse</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b><i><br /></i></b>
We spend the next two days enjoying being tourists. At Ninomaru Park a couple are having their wedding photos taken. They look fabulous.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-BDhs0R_kzSg/Ws_fhS9QpsI/AAAAAAAAGpU/gYCaoNz9ch40iWw8yvFAgYHQcW47zSZswCLcBGAs/s1600/P4110207.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: #0066cc; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; orphans: 2; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-BDhs0R_kzSg/Ws_fhS9QpsI/AAAAAAAAGpU/gYCaoNz9ch40iWw8yvFAgYHQcW47zSZswCLcBGAs/s400/P4110207.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
So we muscle in to their wedding shots.<br />
<b></b><br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-GG0YuQUGYo4/Ws_fh6V5gyI/AAAAAAAAGpY/45659nn4mgs70HhX6bY_TmC1ErDns9yEwCLcBGAs/s1600/P4110208%2B%25281%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: #0066cc; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; orphans: 2; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-GG0YuQUGYo4/Ws_fh6V5gyI/AAAAAAAAGpY/45659nn4mgs70HhX6bY_TmC1ErDns9yEwCLcBGAs/s400/P4110208%2B%25281%2529.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
In the gardens we also come across a <i>suikinkutsu:</i><br />
<i></i><br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-BkkoDrztDWs/WtAOmbBIluI/AAAAAAAAGr8/EJp9HRt9FoQTIMa4exVaa-OPi2bDMSGywCLcBGAs/s1600/P4110210.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: #0066cc; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; orphans: 2; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-BkkoDrztDWs/WtAOmbBIluI/AAAAAAAAGr8/EJp9HRt9FoQTIMa4exVaa-OPi2bDMSGywCLcBGAs/s400/P4110210.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-YvoxyyRxjIM/WtAOmcBX6eI/AAAAAAAAGr4/UTkivmVix-ozMCQ-RRqdbSTsMgQbKnOUwCLcBGAs/s1600/P4110211%2B%25281%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: #0066cc; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; orphans: 2; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-YvoxyyRxjIM/WtAOmcBX6eI/AAAAAAAAGr4/UTkivmVix-ozMCQ-RRqdbSTsMgQbKnOUwCLcBGAs/s400/P4110211%2B%25281%2529.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<b><br /></b>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-7Yi1HuHN1vM/WtAOdTFmtyI/AAAAAAAAGrw/MPQs0jp6XnkBEjUETZikbMKOPyWQRtDQACLcBGAs/s1600/P4110213.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: #0066cc; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; orphans: 2; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-7Yi1HuHN1vM/WtAOdTFmtyI/AAAAAAAAGrw/MPQs0jp6XnkBEjUETZikbMKOPyWQRtDQACLcBGAs/s400/P4110213.JPG" width="300" /></a></div>
<br />
<b><br /></b>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-UymEt-8m0Fg/WtAOiOaHWPI/AAAAAAAAGr0/rrKBdTMvTecsEr7B8rB2RElDWmzAq3JiwCLcBGAs/s1600/P4110215%2B%25281%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: #0066cc; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; orphans: 2; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-UymEt-8m0Fg/WtAOiOaHWPI/AAAAAAAAGr0/rrKBdTMvTecsEr7B8rB2RElDWmzAq3JiwCLcBGAs/s400/P4110215%2B%25281%2529.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<b><br /></b>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-uQsXbX6JLeA/Ws_i_OlbKGI/AAAAAAAAGqY/z3zPWg00zekzx2vE5-ZWQYqbINsdM1z1gCLcBGAs/s1600/P4110205%2B%25281%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: #0066cc; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; orphans: 2; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-uQsXbX6JLeA/Ws_i_OlbKGI/AAAAAAAAGqY/z3zPWg00zekzx2vE5-ZWQYqbINsdM1z1gCLcBGAs/s400/P4110205%2B%25281%2529.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<u><span style="color: #000120;"><b></b></span></u><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<u><span style="color: #000120;"><b><br /></b></span></u></div>
<u><span style="color: #000120;"><b>
</b></span></u>
It is now 12 days since my leg packed up and it is back to normal. We have also spent the last 6 nights in accommodation. It is time to get back on the road.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<u><span style="color: #000120;"><br /></span></u></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<u><span style="color: #000120;"><br /></span></u></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<u><span style="color: #000120;"><br /></span></u></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<u><span style="color: #000120;"><br /></span></u></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<u><span style="color: #000120;"><br /></span></u></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<u><span style="color: #000120;"><br /></span></u></div>
<br />
<i></i><i></i><i></i><br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<u><span style="color: #000120;"><br /></span></u></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<u><span style="color: #000120;"><br /></span></u></div>
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<u><span style="color: #000120;"><br /></span></u></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<u><span style="color: #000120;"><br /></span></u></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<u><span style="color: #000120;"><br /></span></u></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<u><span style="color: #000120;"><br /></span></u></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<u><span style="color: #000120;"><br /></span></u></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<u><span style="color: #000120;"><br /></span></u></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<u><span style="color: #000120;"><br /></span></u></div>
<br />
<br /></div>
Elliehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07671617922958041389noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2705526479207156981.post-39912528996612500142018-04-06T15:25:00.000+01:002018-04-06T16:36:51.769+01:00The best laid schemes o' mice an' men...<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-gg2oAlUd18o/WseN3TmAJII/AAAAAAAAGoo/e_9jDv9Y5esoGsNy2b_RnxRPwYkoq85OQCLcBGAs/s1600/P3300170%2B%25282%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="200" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-gg2oAlUd18o/WseN3TmAJII/AAAAAAAAGoo/e_9jDv9Y5esoGsNy2b_RnxRPwYkoq85OQCLcBGAs/s200/P3300170%2B%25282%2529.JPG" width="150" /></a></div>
Sunday 01 April. Having realised that there would be no walking the henro michi (pilgrim road) today I limp back to the nearest town, Kainan, where we sit in a henro hut and decide what to do. We could wait it out here for a couple of days and hope for my leg to recover and I suggest as much. Mick, however, announces he is not that keen on walking on. and as soon as he says it I realise I am more relieved than disappointed. I guess we are both wondering whether we have bitten off more than we can chew. We walked the 88 Temple Pilgrimage before and perhaps that is the problem - we know how very hard it is to walk the entire route. Four years on I am less fit, more overweight and less prepared than I was back then and it had been hard enough the first time. Sitting there, with a leg that has gone on strike, with the long road stretching on down to Cape Muroto, the truth is that neither of us has the stomach for it. <br />
<br />
For a while I quite enjoy allowing self-pity to take over. "Why can't I just go on a cruise?" I whine, "Or stay for a few weeks on a beach somewhere. Why do I have to put myself through it?"<br />
Mick shrugs. "You'd get bored," he says. "Plus you said you wanted to lose weight. You'd never lose weight on a cruise, they give you four meals a day and you sit around on deck sunbathing all day. Imagine that for three months."<br />
I try to imagine it and in my exhausted state it doesn't sound too bad. I reckon I could handle it.<br />
<br />
But no doubt Mick is right - I would get bored. And I do love Japan, and Shikoku.<br />
<br />
We decide to return to Tokushima and see what happens with my leg. There is a railway station at Kainan and two hours later we are sitting on a train and trundling north. There is another pilgrim on the train who comes over to speak to us. He is a young man from central Shikoku. He tells us he works in forestry and is walking the pilgrimage in stages, a week at a time. Sensible fellow.<br />
<br />
There is a business hotel next to the station and we book in there for the night. The
next morning however my leg still won't work properly so we book in for Monday
night as well. In the afternoon we take the ropeway (cable car) to the top of
Mount Bizan, the hill in the centre of Tokushima and sit there enjoying the
view for the afternoon. Being back in Tokushima means we can also visit the
udon-ya (udon noodle bar) next to Tokushima station which is excellent and where
you can get a good meal for around 600 yen (about £4.00).<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cccEAnQLXcI/WseC9naJGBI/AAAAAAAAGoQ/9JeinGvdGf4JeVhMoPM56-ZPqAtOT5zYwCLcBGAs/s1600/P3250001.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cccEAnQLXcI/WseC9naJGBI/AAAAAAAAGoQ/9JeinGvdGf4JeVhMoPM56-ZPqAtOT5zYwCLcBGAs/s400/P3250001.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Udon-ya yumminess</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-uOWBpzHx1Q0/Wsd6WtlKUBI/AAAAAAAAGnI/UkEO8BrvNbc_lefWap7wj_LG8K1jN7p2QCLcBGAs/s1600/P4020239.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: #0066cc; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; orphans: 2; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-uOWBpzHx1Q0/Wsd6WtlKUBI/AAAAAAAAGnI/UkEO8BrvNbc_lefWap7wj_LG8K1jN7p2QCLcBGAs/s400/P4020239.JPG" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">On the ropeway</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b><br /></b>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-I_QlHfX4ldw/Wsd6WtK4N8I/AAAAAAAAGnA/JZ_CmqoRZQcJylz3E31rcUl8ceI72zUBACLcBGAs/s1600/P4020241.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: #0066cc; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; orphans: 2; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-I_QlHfX4ldw/Wsd6WtK4N8I/AAAAAAAAGnA/JZ_CmqoRZQcJylz3E31rcUl8ceI72zUBACLcBGAs/s400/P4020241.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tokushima from Mount Bizan</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<span style="color: black; margin: 0px;"><br /></span>
<span style="color: black; margin: 0px;">We are
reluctant to stretch our meagre budget to a third night in the hotel so on Tuesday we take the bus to Naruto, around a 30 minute journey. There is a bridge here which connects the island of Shikoku with Honshu via Awaji island. Under the bridge there is a deep valley in the seabed floor and here the tide of the Pacific meets the Seto Inland Sea. The fast flowing water and the differential between the two bodies of water creates whirlpools at low and high tides. Luckily for us, the whirlpools are at their best in the spring and at spring tides. (Spring tides are nothing to do with the season of spring, they 'spring forth' during new moon and full moon phases.) Full moon was yesterday so </span><span style="color: black; margin: 0px;">the whirlpools promise to be good. </span><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-7sK9Dzx_ma0/Wsd6ZG8thkI/AAAAAAAAGnM/lGrWda4q4X4ml97HgZEYlQV8RsvjMGFhQCLcBGAs/s1600/P4030249.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: #0066cc; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; orphans: 2; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-7sK9Dzx_ma0/Wsd6ZG8thkI/AAAAAAAAGnM/lGrWda4q4X4ml97HgZEYlQV8RsvjMGFhQCLcBGAs/s400/P4030249.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Naruto Bridge</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-r35usJ_2fpc/Wsd6auT50WI/AAAAAAAAGnY/r4V0tC499cgNtaOuNm9v_GRq9jVBnsNogCLcBGAs/s1600/P4040263.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: #0066cc; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; orphans: 2; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-r35usJ_2fpc/Wsd6auT50WI/AAAAAAAAGnY/r4V0tC499cgNtaOuNm9v_GRq9jVBnsNogCLcBGAs/s400/P4040263.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Enjoying the sun at Naruto viewpoint</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<span style="color: black; margin: 0px;">We camp at the viewpoint near the bridge and the next day we are </span><span style="color: black; margin: 0px;">not disappointed. The bridge has a walkway underneath, the 'Uzo no michi'. The entry fee of 510 yen allows re-entry all day and we spend a long time enjoying the spectacle below our feet. </span><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-U8S8kIl8870/Wsd6Zis16XI/AAAAAAAAGnU/Xjz8Yye63vUOcPWDh6WCL47WCJczxcH5ACLcBGAs/s1600/P4040259.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: #0066cc; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; orphans: 2; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-U8S8kIl8870/Wsd6Zis16XI/AAAAAAAAGnU/Xjz8Yye63vUOcPWDh6WCL47WCJczxcH5ACLcBGAs/s400/P4040259.JPG" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">It's a long way down....</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b><br /></b>
<br />
<div style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin: 0cm;">
<b><br /></b>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Tj_ZQoCl8ns/Wsd6bc3RgPI/AAAAAAAAGng/bUTm6Iig9HkvtRZn-1O4bXZ0a1vYab6DQCLcBGAs/s1600/P4040271.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: #0066cc; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; orphans: 2; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Tj_ZQoCl8ns/Wsd6bc3RgPI/AAAAAAAAGng/bUTm6Iig9HkvtRZn-1O4bXZ0a1vYab6DQCLcBGAs/s400/P4040271.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<b><br /></b>
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-m2r53ZO8r08/Wsd6ciAeRfI/AAAAAAAAGno/3dtPbxIAsu4D5rBNKomCspfVAqrnqDJUgCLcBGAs/s1600/P4040282%2B%25282%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: #0066cc; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; orphans: 2; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-m2r53ZO8r08/Wsd6ciAeRfI/AAAAAAAAGno/3dtPbxIAsu4D5rBNKomCspfVAqrnqDJUgCLcBGAs/s400/P4040282%2B%25282%2529.JPG" width="300" /></a></div>
<br />
<b><br /></b>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-oRI07e1561Y/Wsd6dhUNFhI/AAAAAAAAGnw/x4pXdPwIcXoq1nzfAZfo490m-6CjEDW7QCLcBGAs/s1600/P4040338.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: #0066cc; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; orphans: 2; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-oRI07e1561Y/Wsd6dhUNFhI/AAAAAAAAGnw/x4pXdPwIcXoq1nzfAZfo490m-6CjEDW7QCLcBGAs/s400/P4040338.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<b><br /></b>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-yrHA-xZxdlw/Wsd6c053u2I/AAAAAAAAGns/_DFOpQ-jcQMOaq85s82aqQyXhe8JtZX9QCLcBGAs/s1600/P4040318.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: #0066cc; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; orphans: 2; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-yrHA-xZxdlw/Wsd6c053u2I/AAAAAAAAGns/_DFOpQ-jcQMOaq85s82aqQyXhe8JtZX9QCLcBGAs/s400/P4040318.JPG" width="300" /></a></div>
<br />
<b><br /></b>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-b5SdTslCMCk/Wsd6ZYxz0zI/AAAAAAAAGnQ/AUJrJg4dI94uMvjAwGjjhOkGQ9Plgi6JgCLcBGAs/s1600/P4040256.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: #0066cc; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; orphans: 2; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-b5SdTslCMCk/Wsd6ZYxz0zI/AAAAAAAAGnQ/AUJrJg4dI94uMvjAwGjjhOkGQ9Plgi6JgCLcBGAs/s400/P4040256.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Trench under Naruto bridge</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<b><br /></b>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-lOtA49HDhIw/Wsd5vB6FB1I/AAAAAAAAGmw/j2Wmsy4BjwcW2z8LUj5LeB2UfJeEZA_6gCLcBGAs/s1600/P4050345.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: #0066cc; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; orphans: 2; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-lOtA49HDhIw/Wsd5vB6FB1I/AAAAAAAAGmw/j2Wmsy4BjwcW2z8LUj5LeB2UfJeEZA_6gCLcBGAs/s400/P4050345.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<b><br /></b>
<b></b><i></i><u></u><sub></sub><sup></sup><strike></strike><br />
That evening we take the bus into Naruto town and camp by the river. It is peaceful here aside from the occasional fishing boat speeding out to sea on the tide and I sleep well.<br />
<br />
The next morning (Thursday 05 April) we are on the train to the city of Takamatsu, farther along the coast. It has been four days now since my leg started playing up and it is definitely better although my gait is still a bit lopsided. We are still dithering about what we should do about the walk.<br />
<br />
Takamatsu is a port town. It was mostly destroyed in World War Two and the streets have since been rebuilt on a grid system. We manage to find a park to camp and we settle down for the night. In the morning Mick discovers a centipede under the tent which he assures me has a nasty bite. This particular centipede was not looking too good having been slept on all night but he may have brought his mates around so Mick proceeds to give the tent a thorough shake out and he reminds me to check my boots every morning...<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-dS6ccqzHOsk/Wsd5vIfdvBI/AAAAAAAAGm0/A9l79WkLiegcNkSyGs8_AbhKSIzbfXlPwCLcBGAs/s1600/P4060346.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: #0066cc; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; orphans: 2; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-dS6ccqzHOsk/Wsd5vIfdvBI/AAAAAAAAGm0/A9l79WkLiegcNkSyGs8_AbhKSIzbfXlPwCLcBGAs/s400/P4060346.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Shaking the tent out...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b><br /></b>
<br />
Friday is rainy so we spend most of the day playing scrabble and just chilling out. I am glad to report that my leg is now pretty much recovered. Not keen on meeting any more centipedes, we find an alternative place to camp, down by the port. But when we go to pitch up at nine o'clock it is blowing a hooley down there. Mick valiantly holds firmly on to the tent which is now resembling a massive parachute. We eventually drag it back down to earth and fight with it to stuff it back in its bag before it escapes for good over the Seto Inland Sea. <br />
<br />
Mick calmly and quietly expresses an opinion that he is not terribly keen to camp this evening. Fifteen minutes later we are checked into the Pearl Business Hotel and drinking a bottle of Chilean red.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-outEiDZdJMQ/Wsd5vN-0U8I/AAAAAAAAGms/tH0q3Tbln9wYOVS9gP22zc1ZAu9bMpcdQCLcBGAs/s1600/P4060353.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: #0066cc; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; orphans: 2; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-outEiDZdJMQ/Wsd5vN-0U8I/AAAAAAAAGms/tH0q3Tbln9wYOVS9gP22zc1ZAu9bMpcdQCLcBGAs/s400/P4060353.JPG" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Scrabble day</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b><br /></b></div>
<b><i></i><u></u><sub></sub><sup></sup><strike></strike><br /></b>
<br />
The best-laid schemes o' mice an' men
<br />
Gang aft agley,
<br />
An' lea'e us nought but grief an' pain,<br />
For promis'd joy!
<br />
<br />
Robert Burns, <i>To A Mouse</i>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<u><span style="color: #000120;"><br /></span></u></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-J9znKIlpGsI/WseNRfAT6XI/AAAAAAAAGog/On5pn7mxoeQQ-uYJb_jnUUg0PAJu-V-3gCLcBGAs/s1600/P4030253.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-J9znKIlpGsI/WseNRfAT6XI/AAAAAAAAGog/On5pn7mxoeQQ-uYJb_jnUUg0PAJu-V-3gCLcBGAs/s400/P4030253.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sunset at Naruto</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<u><span style="color: #000120;"><br /></span></u></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<u><span style="color: #000120;"><br /></span></u></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<u><span style="color: #000120;"><br /></span></u></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<u><span style="color: #000120;"><br /></span></u></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<u><span style="color: #000120;"><br /></span></u></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<u><span style="color: #000120;"><br /></span></u></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<u><span style="color: #000120;"><br /></span></u></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<u><span style="color: #000120;"><br /></span></u></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<u><span style="color: #000120;"><br /></span></u></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<u><span style="color: #000120;"><br /></span></u></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<br /></div>
Elliehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07671617922958041389noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2705526479207156981.post-50190869609067928692018-04-03T03:00:00.001+01:002018-04-03T03:00:43.318+01:00From Tokushima to Hiwasa - and then...disaster!<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
It is Tuesday 27 March and we are walking the road out of
Tokushima. We have spent a pleasant couple of days here and feel refreshed and
ready for the next stage. The walk is such that the first 17 temples take one almost
back to the start so it feels a bit like a training session. Now we are setting off on the more committing long walk south to the first of Shikoku’s
two capes, Cape Muroto. <br />
<br />
We make a small detour along highway number 210 to visit
Japan’s smallest mountain, Mount Benten. We are feeling energetic after our
rest day so we triumphantly climb the mountain which is all of 6.1 metres. <br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-R0vRSA22ITA/WsK4mTBJRtI/AAAAAAAAGkY/bnt9v6RBzw8Ck0zUAv8yjd2w68kDw6xPwCLcBGAs/s1600/P3270006%2B%25282%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: #0066cc; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; orphans: 2; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-R0vRSA22ITA/WsK4mTBJRtI/AAAAAAAAGkY/bnt9v6RBzw8Ck0zUAv8yjd2w68kDw6xPwCLcBGAs/s400/P3270006%2B%25282%2529.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<b><br /></b>
<b></b><i></i><u></u><sub></sub><sup></sup><strike></strike><br />
We reach Temple 18, Onzanji, in good time and sit for a
while enjoying the peace of the temple grounds. The path on to Temple 19 takes us through orange groves and
bamboo woods. At temple 19, Tatsueji, two women come over
to talk to us. One of them passes us a large bag of satsumas and we accept gratefully and exchange
pleasantries, as much as our limited Japanese allows. <br />
‘How old are you?’ one of them asks. (This is a question that is often asked in Japan, there
is no reticence here on the subject as there is in the UK. I wonder what the
reaction would be if I asked the same question there.)
<br />
'54,’ I say.
<br />
‘I’m only
53, Mick interjects, hastily.<br />
‘I am 78 she
says proudly. And my friend is 81.’ We exclaim in surprise at this, and the
surprise is genuine. But then, many people in Japan seem to age remarkably
well. <br />
<br />
The temple is beautiful and especially now, with sprays of pale pink
cherry blossom adorning the ancient temple buildings. There are a few other pilgrims here now, many of whom we recognise from previous encounters and we share the fruit with them. This is only partly altruistic - although the fruit is delicious we don't really want to carry 15 satsumas for too long.<br />
<br />
After Tatsueji we walk along roads across a plain between
the moumtains. A kingfisher flashes irredescent blue as it skims the water of a
small river in which turtles are bobbing up and down like corks. <br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-2gH59zL4gxo/WsK3cL9d7ZI/AAAAAAAAGjE/XiHj14xR2AEkxi6Ils432b9a7xNEn5SrACLcBGAs/s1600/P3280093.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: #0066cc; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; orphans: 2; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-2gH59zL4gxo/WsK3cL9d7ZI/AAAAAAAAGjE/XiHj14xR2AEkxi6Ils432b9a7xNEn5SrACLcBGAs/s400/P3280093.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<b><br /></b>
<b></b><i></i><u></u><sub></sub><sup></sup><strike></strike><br />
As we pass a guesthouse (minshoku) the owner, who is in the
garden, calls out to us to stop a moment. She comes over with a bottle of juice
and a box of tissue holders she has made herself and urges us to choose one
each. We thank her and admire them, and give her a nameslip. I have learned
that it is best to have some of these pre-written out so that if we are given a
gift (osettai), we can, as is the custom, give a nameslip in return without
faffing about trying to write one out on the spot. <br />
<br />
At Katsuura there is a doll festival going on and there were
displays of dolls all along the street. Even the local garage has joined in and
dolls even adorn the dashboards of vans on the forecourt and decorate the post
box of the local post office.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wuZshG1CXDg/WsK4rnKWAKI/AAAAAAAAGkg/5pffQDL7H00vnBX2Ra-BW-7mcXhJU2NYQCLcBGAs/s1600/P3270042%2B%25282%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: #0066cc; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; orphans: 2; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wuZshG1CXDg/WsK4rnKWAKI/AAAAAAAAGkg/5pffQDL7H00vnBX2Ra-BW-7mcXhJU2NYQCLcBGAs/s400/P3270042%2B%25282%2529.JPG" width="300" /></a></div>
<b><br /></b>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-GRitBTpkZKg/WsK44DgkmFI/AAAAAAAAGk0/FJQulvqg5qY7O1nKR3-QNqHtXL3eaERIwCLcBGAs/s1600/P3270051%2B%25281%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: #0066cc; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; orphans: 2; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-GRitBTpkZKg/WsK44DgkmFI/AAAAAAAAGk0/FJQulvqg5qY7O1nKR3-QNqHtXL3eaERIwCLcBGAs/s400/P3270051%2B%25281%2529.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9JaiuhhjmHU/WsK43i3bldI/AAAAAAAAGkw/-DKJv60I9TcF9MocWFqYOlC2j-Al79hCQCLcBGAs/s1600/P3270047%2B%25282%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: #0066cc; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; orphans: 2; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9JaiuhhjmHU/WsK43i3bldI/AAAAAAAAGkw/-DKJv60I9TcF9MocWFqYOlC2j-Al79hCQCLcBGAs/s400/P3270047%2B%25282%2529.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<b></b><i></i><u></u><sub></sub><sup></sup><strike></strike><b></b><i></i><u></u><sub></sub><sup></sup><strike></strike><br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Y78lPhb_VIY/WsK4uGw5f2I/AAAAAAAAGko/CEsIGnchBdkpmuWhQ6-8di7nFlAO0VfLQCLcBGAs/s1600/P3270045%2B%25282%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: #0066cc; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; orphans: 2; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Y78lPhb_VIY/WsK4uGw5f2I/AAAAAAAAGko/CEsIGnchBdkpmuWhQ6-8di7nFlAO0VfLQCLcBGAs/s400/P3270045%2B%25282%2529.JPG" width="300" /></a></div>
<br />
We are planning to spend the night at a ‘michi-no-eki (road
station). These are a bit like UK service stations except unlike UK service
stations there is no threat of a fine if you stay for more than three hours, on
the contrary, many Japanese motorists use these to stay for the night. It is
not unusual to see people with their picnic table and chairs out in the morning
having their breakfast. What a shame our services don’t do the same. Camping at
these places is generally acceptable provided you set up only after everyone
has gone home for the night and are packed up before they open in the morning.<br />
<br />
Behind the buildings is a long row of cherry trees which are
lit by paper lanterns, creating a beautiful effect. We stroll along the avenue
a short way. A man stops and tells us that this is called <i>yokakura.</i><br />
<i></i><br />
We set up our tent at the back of the michi-no-eki along
with another henro who arrives just after we do. We manage a few
words together before we all bed down for the night. When we get up at 6.30 the next
morning he has already gone.<br />
<br />
We work up to today’s task by brewing a coffee
before finally setting off. Getting going early in the morning is something we
need to work on.
Today (Wednesday) is going to be a another mountain day.
Temples 20 and 21 are both situated near the top of mountains, the first at 550 metres and the second at 610 metres. Unfortunately for us walking pilgrims, to get from one to the other
it is necessary to descend back down to a river at a height of a mere 40 metres
before ascending the next mountain.<br />
<br />
Although the nights are still cold, not far
above freezing, the days are warming up and today is around 21 degrees, quite
warm enough to be climbing mountains with 10kg packs on our backs. We are only
able to climb the second one by stopping every other minute for a quick rest.
Despite the steep climbs, the trails are magnificent, they
make the long stretches walking on asphalt/tarmac worthwhile. <br />
<br />
Temple 20 is Kakurinji which means 'crane forest temple', because of the story that Kukai found a small statue of Jizo here being guarded by cranes which feature in many of the statues and carvings at the temple. From the temple you can gaze across the turquoise river flowing far below at the seemingly impenetrable forested mountain opposite.<br />
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-iZgHs0VBbws/WsK3XWWfysI/AAAAAAAAGjA/coRyDwuw7yI2UKZ7k3rQLF-CrQdC_pcIgCLcBGAs/s1600/P3280084%2B%25282%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: #0066cc; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; orphans: 2; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-iZgHs0VBbws/WsK3XWWfysI/AAAAAAAAGjA/coRyDwuw7yI2UKZ7k3rQLF-CrQdC_pcIgCLcBGAs/s400/P3280084%2B%25282%2529.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<b><br /></b>
<b><br /></b>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-554DYXElDx0/WsK3XLOLVfI/AAAAAAAAGi8/ddt_HPjXi18JzY8aRFIwbv7ht7IX43gxwCLcBGAs/s1600/P3280085.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: #0066cc; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; orphans: 2; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-554DYXElDx0/WsK3XLOLVfI/AAAAAAAAGi8/ddt_HPjXi18JzY8aRFIwbv7ht7IX43gxwCLcBGAs/s400/P3280085.JPG" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">On the trail</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-RapkpfQI_ME/WsK3hTw5Y6I/AAAAAAAAGjQ/nP-hoTY-_A4ZaHDfMRkX8LSf4fPXfuIFgCLcBGAs/s1600/P3280097%2B%25282%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: #0066cc; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; orphans: 2; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-RapkpfQI_ME/WsK3hTw5Y6I/AAAAAAAAGjQ/nP-hoTY-_A4ZaHDfMRkX8LSf4fPXfuIFgCLcBGAs/s400/P3280097%2B%25282%2529.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<b></b><i></i><u></u><sub></sub><sup></sup><strike></strike><br />
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-E8uj2sOrJ-c/WsK3OleYuDI/AAAAAAAAGis/-vNOlFKamwkOzTpVEETWg4tASyZi7jVEgCLcBGAs/s1600/P3280076%2B%25281%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: #0066cc; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; orphans: 2; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-E8uj2sOrJ-c/WsK3OleYuDI/AAAAAAAAGis/-vNOlFKamwkOzTpVEETWg4tASyZi7jVEgCLcBGAs/s400/P3280076%2B%25281%2529.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-2OurL5Zqu80/WsK3PP9aUkI/AAAAAAAAGi0/k3s_nLQlCkQRLW7fQtXZTWLpwH5SkeKcQCLcBGAs/s1600/P3280081%2B%25282%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: #0066cc; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; orphans: 2; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-2OurL5Zqu80/WsK3PP9aUkI/AAAAAAAAGi0/k3s_nLQlCkQRLW7fQtXZTWLpwH5SkeKcQCLcBGAs/s400/P3280081%2B%25282%2529.JPG" width="300" /></a></div>
<br />
<b><br /></b>
The path down the mountain is steep and hard on the knees. Near the bottom is a disused school and there is a sign here to indicate that pilgrims can use the toilets which are maintained and cleaned by volunteers. It would also make a great place to camp but we press on.<br />
<br />
By the time we
reach the second temple, 21, Tairuji, we are feeling pretty fatigued. Most
pilgrims, the ones who are not walking around but driving, use the ropeway
(cable car) to get up and down – the road is so steep and narrow that it is not
recommend to drive up here. Mick has promised me an ice-cream - he is sure that they sell them at the ropeway station at the top.<br />
'Ooh yes, lovely', I say and we trot over. They don't sell ice-cream at the shop. But we are offered a
cup of mushroom tea and we drink it gratefully. <br />
<br />
We know that there is nowhere else to buy any food we stop tonight so we need get some provisions. Aside from heavy boxes
of glazed sweets the only thing on offer is pot noodle soups so we stock up on these before
making the steep descent down the old road. We can't read the labels so I buy one with green writing which I guess is vegetable and one with brown writing which I guess is chicken (in fact it turns out to be curry flavour).<br />
<br />
Temple 21, Tairuji, is a wonderful temple. Set amongst huge redwood trees, high on the mountain, it is a mystical place. The buildings are spread out amongst the trees and we have an hour here just relaxing and wandering around the site before setting off on the winding road down the mountain.<br />
<br />
Half an hour or so after descending the mountain from Temple 21 we come to another road station and decide to camp there –
no sooner have we settled down then another henro turns up - the same chap who we camped next to the
previous night. He elects to sleep in the doorway, we set up camp on the side
of the building. The next morning he calls out ‘Ohio goziamasu’- good morning – to us before he disappears
off. We say ‘see you later’ in Japanese and wonder if we will. It is strange
how on this walk you can see the same people on and off for a few days then
never cross paths with them again.<br />
<br />
Thursday’s walk to Byodoji, Temple 22, is a delight. I am
feeling bleary, the traffic last night had been noisy late into the night and
someone had made a heck of a din going to the toilet in the middle of the
night. But the walk through the woods and over One Pass is a delight and
dispels my early morning fogginess. <br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-43flCZT-Hgo/WsK3rk8RHrI/AAAAAAAAGjk/2-_ZAAhIEYslz60bMFF_q5zXuJCa2QzIgCLcBGAs/s1600/P3290137%2B%25281%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: #0066cc; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; orphans: 2; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-43flCZT-Hgo/WsK3rk8RHrI/AAAAAAAAGjk/2-_ZAAhIEYslz60bMFF_q5zXuJCa2QzIgCLcBGAs/s400/P3290137%2B%25281%2529.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Refreshments at Temple 22</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b><br /></b>
<div>
By the time we reach the temple I have
woken up properly.
Later that morning we join the busy Route 55 which involves
a steep climb up a path. As we arrived at the main road we are amazed to see,
just up a side road opposite, a troupe
of macaque monkeys. We watch them for a moment as they saunter off, the
parents keeping a wary eye on us all the while. I know from past experience not
to try and raise my camera to get a picture – last time we were in Japan I did
and as soon as I lifted my arm, they all ran screaming into the woods. They
clearly associate that action with danger. </div>
<br />
Rather than continue walking down Route 55 towards Hiwasa,
we decide to take the coastal route. We had a moment of panic when we reach
Yuki at 4.00 in the afternoon and discover that the supermarket marked on the
map has closed down but after some enquiries we discover it has moved to the
other side of the town. After stocking up on provisions we head to Tainohama
Beach and set up camp on a viewing platform with just a road between us and the
ocean. The setting is idyllic. Or at least it is until the wind gets
up in the middle of the night. The outer tent, which is not pegged down, flaps
wildly in the wind, and by the morning the large carton of orange juice we had
left on the table next to us has flung itself down the outside of the tent.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CX6uxFV0xfE/WsK2EYBlK_I/AAAAAAAAGh8/HFLZlHyBnEgxZ2xwBW4y18cF7PTTDKQzgCLcBGAs/s1600/P3300164%2B%25282%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: #0066cc; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; orphans: 2; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CX6uxFV0xfE/WsK2EYBlK_I/AAAAAAAAGh8/HFLZlHyBnEgxZ2xwBW4y18cF7PTTDKQzgCLcBGAs/s320/P3300164%2B%25282%2529.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tainohama Beach camp</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
In the morning it is too windy on the platform to brew
coffee so we are grateful for the two cans of coffee that a local chap gave us
last night. At least the wind means that the temperature stays cool throughout
the morning as we follow the coast road to Hiwasa. <br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-P0SZr2PuPCo/WsK1R2bbGTI/AAAAAAAAGho/6VdtAQeQG7kyHmjtbK4I-cODfwXTufWOwCLcBGAs/s1600/20180330_105659.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="background-color: transparent; color: #0066cc; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-P0SZr2PuPCo/WsK1R2bbGTI/AAAAAAAAGho/6VdtAQeQG7kyHmjtbK4I-cODfwXTufWOwCLcBGAs/s400/20180330_105659.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hiwasa</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Hiwasa is famous for the turtles which come on to the beach
here to lay eggs every year, and the turtle motif is everywhere; even the phone
box is a turtle. We arrive at midday and as we are both feeling distinctly
grubby as are our clothes we decide to take a half day here and get some
essential cleaning done. We pop into a convenience store first for a coffee and
while we are there a couple come in with their three children. We get talking
to them and discover that they are cycling around Japan on two tandems and
camping as they go. This impresses us immensely and when we discover that the
last cycling trip the five of them took was 9 months cycling across Asia we are
even more impressed. We chat to them for a while and are sorry to see them go,
they are an inspiration. <br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Jv9D69Zfips/WsK1QjsMidI/AAAAAAAAGhk/AepG96oWeOw0ePDg1oUVLEZzw1X8lDrpwCLcBGAs/s1600/P3300179%2B%25281%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="background-color: transparent; color: #0066cc; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Jv9D69Zfips/WsK1QjsMidI/AAAAAAAAGhk/AepG96oWeOw0ePDg1oUVLEZzw1X8lDrpwCLcBGAs/s400/P3300179%2B%25281%2529.JPG" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Turtle phone box</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b><br /></b>
<br />
<div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Rry-bGR9N_U/WsK1Qjq464I/AAAAAAAAGhg/u-hHEReFJ108e9w3TjNCaLAeOsSfHksmgCLcBGAs/s1600/P3300181%2B%25282%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: #0066cc; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; orphans: 2; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Rry-bGR9N_U/WsK1Qjq464I/AAAAAAAAGhg/u-hHEReFJ108e9w3TjNCaLAeOsSfHksmgCLcBGAs/s320/P3300181%2B%25282%2529.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Turtle Toilets </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
On to essential ablutions. The michi-no-eki at Hiwasa has a warm
footbath so we soak our weary feet for a while. Our clothes are pretty grubby now after 10 days on the road. (Eating a curry pot noodle with chopsticks while wearing a white jacket had not been a great idea.) We trot up to the coin
laundry and chuck everything in except our raingear which we wear while the
clothes are washing. Next the onsen to give our bodies a good clean up and Mick
treats himself to the first shave he has had since leaving Osaka, before
finally visiting the beautiful Temple 23, Yakuoji with its distinctive and
colourful pagoda. Here we bump into Harry again, a Japanese man who lives in
New York and whom we had been meeting periodically ever since Temple 6. He tells
us he was born just a few miles away from Hiwasa and was going to stay with his
brother that night. Meanwhile we head over to a patch of grass next to the michi-no-eki
to set up for the night. <br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-DgadKS1ZHRI/WsK3IGGoYFI/AAAAAAAAGio/G7jP_eJhhHgnXv7bRoyFUgSWiS1T1P9hwCLcBGAs/s1600/20180330_165032.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: #0066cc; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; orphans: 2; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-DgadKS1ZHRI/WsK3IGGoYFI/AAAAAAAAGio/G7jP_eJhhHgnXv7bRoyFUgSWiS1T1P9hwCLcBGAs/s400/20180330_165032.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Temple 23</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-4-bVYBf1MsQ/WsK3HzLKMBI/AAAAAAAAGig/7CUJjIpAlhcxY9WbyRGXAJ7GxAkWOLXxgCLcBGAs/s1600/20180330_162929.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: #0066cc; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; orphans: 2; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-4-bVYBf1MsQ/WsK3HzLKMBI/AAAAAAAAGig/7CUJjIpAlhcxY9WbyRGXAJ7GxAkWOLXxgCLcBGAs/s400/20180330_162929.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br /></div>
<b></b><i></i><u></u><sub></sub><sup></sup><strike></strike><b></b><i></i><u></u><sub></sub><sup></sup><strike></strike><br />
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-b2mxWZ2qxFk/WsK3O05t8mI/AAAAAAAAGiw/RkQtraBnEoQDDKmZqlP7XMiXKXXxWPatgCLcBGAs/s1600/20180330_165450.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: #0066cc; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; orphans: 2; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-b2mxWZ2qxFk/WsK3O05t8mI/AAAAAAAAGiw/RkQtraBnEoQDDKmZqlP7XMiXKXXxWPatgCLcBGAs/s400/20180330_165450.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>
<br />
<b><br /></b>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JzOjtiObu58/WsK6iZeGdvI/AAAAAAAAGmI/k5Db5dHvUMwlpCkzfGHGQzk8rPQnXMQXgCLcBGAs/s1600/P3300209%2B%25281%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: #0066cc; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; orphans: 2; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JzOjtiObu58/WsK6iZeGdvI/AAAAAAAAGmI/k5Db5dHvUMwlpCkzfGHGQzk8rPQnXMQXgCLcBGAs/s400/P3300209%2B%25281%2529.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<b><i><br /></i></b>
It is our 11th consecutive night
in the tent. According to the official guidebook we have walked 155 kilometres.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-BNd71JIcI1E/WsK2JYI82PI/AAAAAAAAGiE/1MsFNuqyYAgdd4qB8Yu4FEi6FYLyb0RpwCLcBGAs/s1600/P3300188.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: #0066cc; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; orphans: 2; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-BNd71JIcI1E/WsK2JYI82PI/AAAAAAAAGiE/1MsFNuqyYAgdd4qB8Yu4FEi6FYLyb0RpwCLcBGAs/s400/P3300188.JPG" width="300" /></a></div>
<br />
<b><br /></b>
It is 05.30am on Saturday 01 April. The staff at the michi-no-eki are already setting up for the day so we emerge bleary-eyed from our tent and stagger over the road to the convenience store and grab a coffee. By 06.30 we are on the road, and walking down the Minami-Awa Sun Line, a fabulous and quiet road which travels for 18km high above the Pacific Ocean. Quiet except for the motorbikes which occasionally roar past that is. We reach the next town of Mugi by lunchtime.<br />
<br />
This is where we make decisions which in hindsight were not the best.<br />
<br />
Mistake No. 1. Having already walked 20km with 10kg backpacks, as it was only lunchtime we decide to walk on to the next town, another 10km down the road.<br />
<br />
Mistake No. 2 We decide not to carry any food as we know there are stores in the next town and figure we can eat there.<br />
<br />
We walk on for a couple more hours. At Asakawa the route diverts off the main Route 55 and through the town.<br />
<br />
Mistake No. 3. Leaving Asakawa we do not pay sufficient attention to the map and rather than walk down the main road we are now on a parallel road without realising it.<br />
<br />
Mistake No. 4 We come across a lovely area with toilets which is perfect for camping but decide to walk on to the convenience store as we have no food, reasoning that we can always walk back here for the night. At this stage we do not realise we are on the wrong road.<br />
<br />
Mistake No.5 When, a couple of kilometres on, we realise our navigational error, instead of returning to the place mentioned above we correct our route and walk on to the convenience store. By this time we have gone too far to turn back so we walk on in search of somewhere to camp. By the time we have found a suitable spot, we have walked over 30km in total and have been walking for 12 hours.<br />
<br />
In our defence we are tired but not in agony so we figure we will just walk a shorter walk the following day to recover a little.<br />
<br />
In the morning I try to get out of the tent and discover that my legs will not allow me to stand up. After a couple of hours we walk slowly back to the nearest town. It takes me an hour to walk three kilometres and I am staggering as I walk. There will be no walking the pilgrimage today.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-4uvFNuWs7tQ/WsK3lPU7PtI/AAAAAAAAGjY/1MHVt-ACU4M9He_YoRuljlMQFdkBA8xmQCLcBGAs/s1600/P3280114%2B%25281%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: #0066cc; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; orphans: 2; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-4uvFNuWs7tQ/WsK3lPU7PtI/AAAAAAAAGjY/1MHVt-ACU4M9He_YoRuljlMQFdkBA8xmQCLcBGAs/s400/P3280114%2B%25281%2529.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<b></b><i></i><u></u><sub></sub><sup></sup><strike></strike><br />
<b></b><i></i><u></u><sub></sub><sup></sup><strike></strike><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<u><span style="color: #000120;"><br /></span></u></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-VMcHCb_Km0U/WsK3nU85FWI/AAAAAAAAGjc/qaZDMPUX2mIcJIbG0HRKGJeHUvn4DRlnQCLcBGAs/s1600/P3290121.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-VMcHCb_Km0U/WsK3nU85FWI/AAAAAAAAGjc/qaZDMPUX2mIcJIbG0HRKGJeHUvn4DRlnQCLcBGAs/s400/P3290121.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-y10_q-E1LJc/WsK3rck2j_I/AAAAAAAAGjg/0xyZEv5_j4gXA2_BvFNpyL-ihTrQqu_SQCLcBGAs/s1600/P3290128%2B%25282%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-y10_q-E1LJc/WsK3rck2j_I/AAAAAAAAGjg/0xyZEv5_j4gXA2_BvFNpyL-ihTrQqu_SQCLcBGAs/s320/P3290128%2B%25282%2529.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<u><span style="color: #000120;"><br /></span></u></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-YajoYaNc-d8/WsK3uKpYw7I/AAAAAAAAGjo/UXl1LOW8GwEpTFoqFJ0Ix13MzG6QfF4IgCLcBGAs/s1600/P3290146%2B%25281%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-YajoYaNc-d8/WsK3uKpYw7I/AAAAAAAAGjo/UXl1LOW8GwEpTFoqFJ0Ix13MzG6QfF4IgCLcBGAs/s400/P3290146%2B%25281%2529.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-gEwxfh9liEA/WsK3xqlJcGI/AAAAAAAAGjs/pBb8TMN8qbsbYW8aPMdhVifTUHPgaPd1QCLcBGAs/s1600/P3290148%2B%25282%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-gEwxfh9liEA/WsK3xqlJcGI/AAAAAAAAGjs/pBb8TMN8qbsbYW8aPMdhVifTUHPgaPd1QCLcBGAs/s400/P3290148%2B%25282%2529.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-sdojmrXEQRc/WsK6Mgkd7MI/AAAAAAAAGlY/Kg0YVCWxwpUwg6Licdr7jQrsN2ztsNaCACLcBGAs/s1600/20180328_144858.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: #0066cc; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-left: 16px; margin-right: 16px; orphans: 2; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-sdojmrXEQRc/WsK6Mgkd7MI/AAAAAAAAGlY/Kg0YVCWxwpUwg6Licdr7jQrsN2ztsNaCACLcBGAs/s400/20180328_144858.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>
<b></b><i></i><u></u><sub></sub><sup></sup><strike></strike><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-wmqFJHTGfno/WsK47jDKSUI/AAAAAAAAGk8/juZLIlMbK7gqa5H-NI63hsNKddATw80JwCLcBGAs/s1600/P3270054%2B%25281%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-wmqFJHTGfno/WsK47jDKSUI/AAAAAAAAGk8/juZLIlMbK7gqa5H-NI63hsNKddATw80JwCLcBGAs/s400/P3270054%2B%25281%2529.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br /></div>
Elliehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07671617922958041389noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2705526479207156981.post-86134920337688395552018-03-25T06:02:00.000+01:002018-03-26T01:12:09.644+01:00Beginnings<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-cfLID5iNQz0/Wrcmhvf7_sI/AAAAAAAAGfQ/dZ1lm2c0bSI09sLweGtUfx2DmiZ4PXn5wCLcBGAs/s1600/P3240245.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; clear: left; color: #0066cc; float: left; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; orphans: 2; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-cfLID5iNQz0/Wrcmhvf7_sI/AAAAAAAAGfQ/dZ1lm2c0bSI09sLweGtUfx2DmiZ4PXn5wCLcBGAs/s320/P3240245.JPG" width="240" /></a>Tuesday morning we catch the bus from Namba bus terminal to
Tokushima. An accident on the Expressway out of Osaka means we sit for an hour
in traffic out the outskirts of the city but finally we find ourselves gazing
down at the whirlpools that swirl under the Great Naruto Bridge which connects
Shikoku to Honshu via Awaji-shima Island. The bus deposits us at a parking area above
Bando town, the location of the first temple, Ryozenji. It has started raining
and it is - surprisingly for the end of March - freezing cold.
Today we need to buy our pilgrim attire – clothes which will mark us out as pilgrims
and - more importantly perhaps - mark our transition from tourists to
pilgrims (<i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">henro</i>) in our own minds. This
means that I will have to stop swearing at Mick and be all calmness and
serenity for the next 10 weeks or so and instead swear oaths of another kind –
to not complain and accept that hardships we encounter on the route are part of
our ascetic training or personal growth. Lets see how that works out…
<br />
<br />
Although there are shops at the first temple to buy these
clothes, the last time we were here Mick particularly liked the jackets which
were sold at Temple 6, Anrakuji, so we decide to head there, stay overnight
and return to Ryozenji in the morning to start our walk. This involves a short
train and bus journey, but we had done it before so didn’t think it would be a problem. But at Bando station we watch in dismay from the wrong platform as the train
pulls in and out again. Dejected, we plod over the to the correct platform and
wait half an hour for the next train. </div>
<br />
At Itano we need to change to a bus but when we leave the
station in the pouring rain we cannot see the bus stop anywhere. We ask someone
and he suggests a taxi but we are reluctant to give in. We are already feeling
fed up. This was not how we imagined our first day. <br />
<br />
Then a woman joins the conversation. She and the man talk together in Japanese and we can’t follow what they are
saying but then she turns to us and says that there is no bus for a while. “Come
to my house and have some tea and then I will drive you there.” She has two
children with her and we demur at first, saying we don’t want to take up her
time. She says it is no trouble. It turns out that Yuka and her children live
in Kamkura and that her husband is from Kent and they are here visiting her
folks. After tea and biscuits Yuka and her daughter walk us over to the bus
stop which is on the other side of the train station – we would never have
found it – to show us where to get off when we return tomorrow to start our
walk from Temple 1.<br />
<br />
Yuka looks concerned when she drops us at the carpark at
Temple 6. The rain is belting down now. There is a large shelter here which
we knew about before and which is perfect for camping. We assure her that we
will be fine and wave as they drive away. Her kindness has cheered us up
immensely and reminds us that this is one of the reasons we have returned to
walk this walk, this so difficult walk, for a second time. We set up camp and
settle down for the night under the shelter, glad we are not camping outside as
the rain continues to pour down outside.
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
<span style="color: #000120;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-bottom: 8px; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; orphans: 2; padding: 6px; text-align: center; text-decoration: none; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><tbody style="margin-bottom: 0px; padding-bottom: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;">
<tr style="margin-bottom: 0px; padding-bottom: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;"><td style="text-align: center;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;">
<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-_n7bU3MOFe4/WrcdwTckFvI/AAAAAAAAGdM/3cV_nRz0usYiRkXHcP_GIs5CpGkSmyEDQCLcBGAs/s1600/P3200112.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="background-color: transparent; color: #0066cc; font-family: &quot; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-_n7bU3MOFe4/WrcdwTckFvI/AAAAAAAAGdM/3cV_nRz0usYiRkXHcP_GIs5CpGkSmyEDQCLcBGAs/s400/P3200112.JPG" width="300" /></a></div>
</td></tr>
<tr style="margin-bottom: 0px; padding-bottom: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;"><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px; padding-top: 4px; text-align: center;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;">
Shelter near Temple 6</div>
</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
The following morning we return to Temple 1. It is still raining but we must get started. We visit Temples 1, 2 and 3 and at each one we
light a candle each and three sticks of incense and place a nameslip and
donation in the box. We reach Temple 4 and I suddenly realise that I no longer have the camera with me. We retrace our steps back a kilometre to a rest hut to retrieve it. By
the time we have visited Temple 5 it is getting dark. It is still raining
and we are relieved to return to our carpark shelter at Temple 6 for a second
night.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-JHfGZVtdLKU/Wrcdjzf2YaI/AAAAAAAAGdI/493nzvZLMK8zO1Dd38264CqlPT2F6MlCQCLcBGAs/s1600/P3200106.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: #0066cc; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; orphans: 2; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-JHfGZVtdLKU/Wrcdjzf2YaI/AAAAAAAAGdI/493nzvZLMK8zO1Dd38264CqlPT2F6MlCQCLcBGAs/s400/P3200106.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">At shop at Temple 1, Ryozenji</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<b><br /></b>
<b><br /></b>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-y8KZ_SVOqkM/WrcgUW9_UII/AAAAAAAAGeg/SAyN2FozeL0asnyVRukSA96vmFhjQ-dOgCLcBGAs/s1600/P3210122.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: #0066cc; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; orphans: 2; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-y8KZ_SVOqkM/WrcgUW9_UII/AAAAAAAAGeg/SAyN2FozeL0asnyVRukSA96vmFhjQ-dOgCLcBGAs/s400/P3210122.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A wet start</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-maieiMMFiCw/WrcmaOItXrI/AAAAAAAAGfM/4ZBKyU87iGAvZhv9s6uRH9BNJSJfL6fkgCLcBGAs/s1600/P3210124.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: #0066cc; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; orphans: 2; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-maieiMMFiCw/WrcmaOItXrI/AAAAAAAAGfM/4ZBKyU87iGAvZhv9s6uRH9BNJSJfL6fkgCLcBGAs/s320/P3210124.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">At Ryozenji, Temple 1</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NQjpuR2hy-U/Wrcf4_TfCAI/AAAAAAAAGeU/k9eb0X6Qe5UleOuTECXGgRjLwRpB3E89wCLcBGAs/s1600/P3210154.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: #0066cc; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; orphans: 2; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NQjpuR2hy-U/Wrcf4_TfCAI/AAAAAAAAGeU/k9eb0X6Qe5UleOuTECXGgRjLwRpB3E89wCLcBGAs/s400/P3210154.JPG" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Konsenji, Temple 3</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<b><i><br /></i></b>
Thursday is a little better, showers rather than constant
rain as we cross the plain which divides the two mountain ranges to the north
and south. <br />
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-P-a7mb1LVxg/WrceF4zFlXI/AAAAAAAAGdU/E7GwZQMSbl8I9qSVj5zb5BpdY9bzlPhZgCLcBGAs/s1600/P3220161.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: #0066cc; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; orphans: 2; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-P-a7mb1LVxg/WrceF4zFlXI/AAAAAAAAGdU/E7GwZQMSbl8I9qSVj5zb5BpdY9bzlPhZgCLcBGAs/s400/P3220161.JPG" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">At Jurakuji, Temple 7</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-1pE27m_JU04/WrcnoDDXTEI/AAAAAAAAGfw/8YoAxzq7m7oQPFu56kwRGvCx-hbKhlhMQCEwYBhgL/s1600/P3220167.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; clear: right; color: #0066cc; float: right; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; orphans: 2; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-1pE27m_JU04/WrcnoDDXTEI/AAAAAAAAGfw/8YoAxzq7m7oQPFu56kwRGvCx-hbKhlhMQCEwYBhgL/s320/P3220167.JPG" width="240" /></a><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-t5TIjbJOFXM/Wrcnc7jmRtI/AAAAAAAAGfo/WbFWpRqIHhIysNW2eoXL6sVxVoSk_oOaQCEwYBhgL/s1600/P3220166.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; clear: left; color: #0066cc; float: left; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; orphans: 2; text-align: center; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-t5TIjbJOFXM/Wrcnc7jmRtI/AAAAAAAAGfo/WbFWpRqIHhIysNW2eoXL6sVxVoSk_oOaQCEwYBhgL/s320/P3220166.JPG" width="240" /></a><br />
<b><i><br /></i></b>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
We stop at the little Udon-ya opposite Temple 9, Horinji, at
lunchtime. The woman who runs it looks like she has been serving udon to
pilgrims here since forever. The udon comes in a large bamboo bowl for us to dish out
ourselves and is delicious. <br />
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-oHJwP5alkPg/WrceqNguj0I/AAAAAAAAGdo/tftC-tjmxFMuLnsH5Sy4r1qV579pPVxwACLcBGAs/s1600/P3220177.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: #0066cc; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; orphans: 2; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-oHJwP5alkPg/WrceqNguj0I/AAAAAAAAGdo/tftC-tjmxFMuLnsH5Sy4r1qV579pPVxwACLcBGAs/s400/P3220177.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Happy face after udon</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b><br /></b>
<b><br /></b>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-zBX-VCx7i4A/Wrg4Q3B3NFI/AAAAAAAAGg8/JgvOL0DC46U-_4AYOnZlwjdzL87FjxyPgCLcBGAs/s1600/P3220179.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1532" data-original-width="1600" height="382" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-zBX-VCx7i4A/Wrg4Q3B3NFI/AAAAAAAAGg8/JgvOL0DC46U-_4AYOnZlwjdzL87FjxyPgCLcBGAs/s400/P3220179.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Udon-ya at Temple 9, Horinji</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Tonight we are hoping to stay at free lodgings at Kamonoyu onsen (Japanese hot bath), not too far from Temple 11. We spend too long in
McDonalds chatting to three curious schoolchildren and by the time we arrive at
8pm the accommodation is full. However the woman at the onsen tells us we are
welcome to sleep in the carpark provided we are out of the way of cars
manoeuvering in the dark. This sounded good to us too, so we set up the tent in a corner
near the hedge and head into the onsen for a much needed wash and hot soak.<br />
<br />
In the morning the rain has passed and although the night had been bitterly cold, today dawns bright with not
a cloud in the sharp blue sky. It is half past six and the other pilgrims are
getting up and preparing to depart. The next temple, Shosanji, is situated high
in the mountains at over 700 metres and not only that, to get there you have to
climb two other peaks of 600 and 700 metres before reaching the temple on the
third peak. Carrying 10kg backpacks we knew this would take us all day and with
the temperatures being so low we wanted to descend the other side before
setting up camp for the night rather than end up camping high in the mountain. An early start is essential. <br />
<br />
I turn over and go back to sleep.<br />
<br />
An hour later we get up and make a coffee on our little
stove, warming our numb cold fingers on the metal cups of hot liquid. Finally,
we make the journey to Temple 11, Fujiidera, set into the foot of the mountains. A coach party of pilgrims arrive while we are there, the
first of the day. Among them is the head monk from Temple 51 at Matsuyama and
he asks us to stay at his accommodation in the temple when we get there. We say
that we will. <br />
<br />
The trail to
Temple 12 leaves from the back of Fujiidera. A fit looking Japanese man
joins us. I try and guess his age, I reckon he is about 65, but he clearly
thinks nothing of the climb. He tells us he is training for a walk in Nepal by
climbing this mountain every day. He soon leaves us behind as we plod up the
hill carrying our heavy packs. <br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Zu1dqg2q2UE/Wrcfr66fZHI/AAAAAAAAGeM/3KC5QQjM8ZM74yQVvj5GE8i1__qewFFNgCLcBGAs/s1600/P3230202.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: #0066cc; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; orphans: 2; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Zu1dqg2q2UE/Wrcfr66fZHI/AAAAAAAAGeM/3KC5QQjM8ZM74yQVvj5GE8i1__qewFFNgCLcBGAs/s400/P3230202.JPG" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The trail from Fujiidera</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-5HIeQY_byjQ/WrcfkGQsd7I/AAAAAAAAGeE/KFvFwH4O5cMGH4Fbny5CtKqwntz1YdoyACLcBGAs/s1600/20180323_103553.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: #0066cc; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; orphans: 2; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-5HIeQY_byjQ/WrcfkGQsd7I/AAAAAAAAGeE/KFvFwH4O5cMGH4Fbny5CtKqwntz1YdoyACLcBGAs/s400/20180323_103553.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Exchanging details with another pilgrim</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-18698kXg-RQ/WrcltFCg-eI/AAAAAAAAGe4/RK1T6SIdFlUp6hWROsVPFA1N0pkdSDiLACLcBGAs/s1600/P3230207.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: #0066cc; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; orphans: 2; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-18698kXg-RQ/WrcltFCg-eI/AAAAAAAAGe4/RK1T6SIdFlUp6hWROsVPFA1N0pkdSDiLACLcBGAs/s320/P3230207.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><div>
Delightful walking through the forest </div>
<div>
A welcome flat section...</div>
</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
We come across him a couple of hours later. He
is sitting on a log in a clearing, cooking food in a frying pan. It is all
organic vegetarian food from his own farm he tells us. He is joined by a couple
of friends, a man and a woman of a similar age. We sit down and they share
their fruit with us. It is delicious.
‘This is the kudzu lounge,’ he tells us, pointing to a sign behind us. (Kudzu is the vine that grows here, he explained.)<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-x7tF0106lOo/WrcfPkdCleI/AAAAAAAAGd8/7tesTrrYHEAZ85vRJ4kjAlSw5bLbRBCTwCLcBGAs/s1600/20180323_115759.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: #0066cc; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; orphans: 2; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-x7tF0106lOo/WrcfPkdCleI/AAAAAAAAGd8/7tesTrrYHEAZ85vRJ4kjAlSw5bLbRBCTwCLcBGAs/s400/20180323_115759.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cooking up at the kudzu lounge</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-DTBduiwo-OE/WrcfZr0pPMI/AAAAAAAAGeA/NZuWSxo341MOIHsXv4MqDJR8CP4cVNr_gCLcBGAs/s1600/20180323_115747.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: #0066cc; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; orphans: 2; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-DTBduiwo-OE/WrcfZr0pPMI/AAAAAAAAGeA/NZuWSxo341MOIHsXv4MqDJR8CP4cVNr_gCLcBGAs/s400/20180323_115747.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
We could have lounged
there for another hour but now time is, of course, against us. The path takes us relentlessly up and down again<br />
<br />
The final climb is the hardest, or so it feels, the last of
six <i style="mso-bidi-font-style: normal;">henro korogashi</i> or ‘pilgrim fall
down’ sections and it is with a sense of achievement that we finally reach the
lantern-lined path into the temple. It is quiet here and the sound of our feet
crunching on the gravel as we walk around the grounds echoes and rebounds. <br />
<br />
The views across the mountains are
magnificent, a series of green, pine covered peaks and away in the distance, Tokushima and
the sea. It has been an exhausting climb but we are gratified when a man from a group of Western
tourists who we had spoken to a while back tells us he is impressed with our
level of fitness in climbing up here with our heavy packs. Maybe we are capable
of doing this walk after all.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jXTgv0DHeAU/WrceYLEvBBI/AAAAAAAAGdc/2owC_R9e5CoeM3m4RzdVRiCxDgFtHt5IQCLcBGAs/s1600/P3230217.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: #0066cc; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; orphans: 2; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jXTgv0DHeAU/WrceYLEvBBI/AAAAAAAAGdc/2owC_R9e5CoeM3m4RzdVRiCxDgFtHt5IQCLcBGAs/s400/P3230217.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Arriving at Shosanji, Temple 12</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b><br /></b>
Initially, going down is not as pleasant at it could have been - it is so steep my toes
are crushed painfully against the front of my boots. We decide to revert to the winding but slightly less steep road rather than stay on the steeper forest trails and as we near the
bottom the gradient becomes shallower and easier on the feet.<br />
<br />
We are heading for another onsen, about 8km
father along the road. By the time we arrive, once again we are walking in the dark and it is late, around 7.45.
The onsen has a sign on the door saying they close at 8.00. There will be no
hot bath this evening. We try to remember our pilgrim oath not to complain when
things don’t go our way but we are British and it isn’t easy. Complaining is
what we do, after all, it’s how we roll. In truth we know it was our own fault. Tomorrow, we vow, we will get up early.<br />
<br />
We camp in the park opposite the onsen. We are next to a river and still 150 metres above
sea level. The night is the coldest yet and we shiver all night in our summer
sleeping bags. In the morning a frost covers the grass and wooden benches when
we blearily come round and make a coffee at 06.30. Soon Mick is chattering away, something
about James Bond and I beg him to be quiet for half an hour. To his credit he
shuts up without further comment for a full 10 minutes.<br />
<br />
The day is spent walking the 15km back into Tokushima . On the way, the cherry blossom is just coming into bloom and looks beautiful. We sit for a while, watching the cormorants spreading their wings and warming up in the morning sunlight. While we are there a car draws up and a man gets out and brings us two cans of cold drinks. 'Osettai' he says, bowing, before jumping back into his car and driving away. Osettai is one of the many fine things about this walk. Gifts from strangers which boost morale and give us a warm feeling inside. It is with renewed energy that we resume our walk alongside the highway.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-lwBckWh00Kk/WrcekYoVk0I/AAAAAAAAGdg/B41zWUnQbQAp0nxskAaMJ-DPe9OiYV3iwCLcBGAs/s1600/P3240235.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: #0066cc; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; orphans: 2; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-lwBckWh00Kk/WrcekYoVk0I/AAAAAAAAGdg/B41zWUnQbQAp0nxskAaMJ-DPe9OiYV3iwCLcBGAs/s400/P3240235.JPG" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Route 21 into Tokushima</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Gwk9JFS74EM/WrcfrgCXWSI/AAAAAAAAGeI/7F_STT9ZtPk4cxDaUBkFuYGheeBLvuF-gCLcBGAs/s1600/P3240239.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: #0066cc; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; orphans: 2; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Gwk9JFS74EM/WrcfrgCXWSI/AAAAAAAAGeI/7F_STT9ZtPk4cxDaUBkFuYGheeBLvuF-gCLcBGAs/s400/P3240239.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Henro rest hut just before Dainichiji, Temple 13</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
We visit the 5 temples
on the outskirts of the city, numbers 13 to 17. <br />
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-kc3heFARFDc/WrcrV9ql-iI/AAAAAAAAGgU/0a-ofplRREkKmO6-KVx5o8Wk2eAsCsbyACLcBGAs/s1600/P3240257.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: #0066cc; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; orphans: 2; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-kc3heFARFDc/WrcrV9ql-iI/AAAAAAAAGgU/0a-ofplRREkKmO6-KVx5o8Wk2eAsCsbyACLcBGAs/s400/P3240257.JPG" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bell Tower at Temple 14, Jorakuji</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
By the time we reach the last one, Idoji, it is six o’clock and all the pilgrims have
gone. There is a well here, the legend is that Kukai dug the well in one night
with his staff and that if you make a wish on a specific day then that wish
will come true. The guidebook doesn’t say which day though. I make a wish
anyway. <br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-VCbMziftL_Y/Wrcs9DlDjuI/AAAAAAAAGgg/2zLyQOJ23zgebMX3VeeaTXwfbrpFOAKpgCLcBGAs/s1600/P3240003.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: #0066cc; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; orphans: 2; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-VCbMziftL_Y/Wrcs9DlDjuI/AAAAAAAAGgg/2zLyQOJ23zgebMX3VeeaTXwfbrpFOAKpgCLcBGAs/s400/P3240003.JPG" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The well at Idoji</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
We have walked for four days. After camping in a park overnight, in the morning of Day
5 we walk the last 5km into Tokushima. We have walked around 90km since we
started out and today we intend today to have a rest.<br />
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-viQas_4eZRU/WrcosmVQMTI/AAAAAAAAGgE/rW5cSp0n54U_g2zezb_8epFClS7v6nwpQCLcBGAs/s1600/P3230205.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-viQas_4eZRU/WrcosmVQMTI/AAAAAAAAGgE/rW5cSp0n54U_g2zezb_8epFClS7v6nwpQCLcBGAs/s400/P3230205.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-dbfQ2429uI0/Wrcs9QcMm5I/AAAAAAAAGgk/WYW9dgd8_YssduGt2ed8MqWZPsyqvVydwCLcBGAs/s1600/P3250010.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-dbfQ2429uI0/Wrcs9QcMm5I/AAAAAAAAGgk/WYW9dgd8_YssduGt2ed8MqWZPsyqvVydwCLcBGAs/s400/P3250010.JPG" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our route so far</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<u><span style="color: #000120;"><br /></span></u></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<u><span style="color: #000120;"><br /></span></u></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<u><span style="color: #000120;"><br /></span></u></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<u><span style="color: #000120;"><br /></span></u></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<u><span style="color: #000120;"><br /></span></u></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<u><span style="color: #000120;"><br /></span></u></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<u><span style="color: #000120;"><br /></span></u></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<u><span style="color: #000120;"><br /></span></u></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<u><span style="color: #000120;"><br /></span></u></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<u><span style="color: #000120;"><br /></span></u></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<u><span style="color: #000120;"><br /></span></u></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<br /></div>
Elliehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07671617922958041389noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2705526479207156981.post-64437572913779856262018-03-25T04:19:00.000+01:002018-03-25T04:19:20.326+01:00Preparation for Shikoku - kit list<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
I've just remembered that in a previous post I promised to post our kit list. Now I've written it down I am not sure that publishing it is a good idea (cue howls of laughter/derision...)<br />
<br />
It seems like a very long list of stuff. Anyway here goes:<br />
<b><br /></b>
<b><br /></b>
<b>Joint kit</b><br />
<b><br /></b>
Tent - Hilleberg Rogen 2 person + footprint<br />
<br />
Mick carrying footprint and tent<br />
Ellie carrying poles and pegs<br />
<br />
(People that know me will recall that as Mick and I have had a bumpy time recently I was determined to carry my own tent just in case we fall out. It was to be my insurance. Well, for better or for worse, he has talked me out of it and so we are, as originally planned, sharing the load of one two person tent between us. Lets see how that works out.)<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Mick</b><br />
<b><br /></b>
Osprey 68 litre rucksack<br />
Sleeping bag - Yeti Vib250<br />
Silk liner<br />
Exped 50 Litre drysack<br />
Thermarest Prolite bedmat extra small<br />
Polystyrene bedroll<br />
cheap cycle jacket (to be discarded as it gets warmer)<br />
Montane windjammer jacket (VI Trail series)<br />
Montbell trailhiker trousers with detachable legs<br />
Montane Terra lightweight trousers<br />
Steiner long sleeve silk baselayer<br />
Mountain Warehouse medium weight t-shirt<br />
Mountain Warehouse lightweight t-shirt<br />
Montane Atomic shell lightweight over trousers<br />
Sea to Summit Ultra Nanosil poncho<br />
small travel towel<br />
2 pairs hipster underpants (no buttons)<br />
2 pairs Bridgedale light hiker socks<br />
lightweight gloves<br />
Mosquito headnet<br />
Buff<br />
Sunday Afternoons Adventure hat<br />
Leki carbon walking poles<br />
Salomon X-Alp shoes<br />
Weirdfish flipflops<br />
<br />
Sawyer Mini water filter kit<br />
2 x 3 metres of 2mm cord + 12 small safety pins<br />
Edelrid piranha lockknife (2 inch blade)<br />
Henro bell and whistle on carabiner<br />
<br />
Sea to Summit ultraseal 20 litre stuffsack (doubles as a pillow and a daysack)<br />
Sea to Summit lightweight 13 litre bag<br />
Expred drybag small yellow 5 litre<br />
Montbell lightweight shoulderbag<br />
<br />
Spanish phrasebook (to learn Spanish for the Camino, Mick's next walk)<br />
<br />
Samsung S9+ smartphone.<br />
USB charging lead<br />
Suunto titamium Spartan Ultra ultra watch + mini USB charging lead<br />
Synchwire 4 USB socket adapter plug<br />
Lightweight headphones<br />
Petzl e-lite mini headlight +2x CR2032 batteries<br />
Lumo mini light<br />
<br />
Soto triple mix gas 230g<br />
Soto micro regulator stove (self-igniting)<br />
MSR stabilising footrest<br />
Montbell titanium lightweight mug (large)<br />
<br />
indigestion tablets<br />
diarrhoea tablets<br />
Ibuprofen tablets<br />
Ibuprofen gel 100g<br />
Flucloxacillin BP 28 capsules<br />
fine fishing line<br />
tick remover<br />
variafocal sun glasses<br />
regular variafocal glasses<br />
fabric glasses case<br />
2 x razors<br />
electronic anti-histamine zapper<br />
Incognito insect repellent 100ml<br />
Nivea lipbalm<br />
Repair tape<br />
3 x micropur tape<br />
Lightweight squeegee (for wiping down tent)<br />
Magnesium tablets in small plastic pot<br />
Dental floss<br />
Toothpaste<br />
Toothbrush<br />
Wetwipes 25 pack<br />
<br />
<br />
Passport<br />
Money<br />
<br />
Exped drybag small yellow<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ZBixwDHzVOY/WrcTR-SCFFI/AAAAAAAAGcM/DSfFBXnWdYUJsJUV1Ir10Ig8EafhbsBQACLcBGAs/s1600/P3160207.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ZBixwDHzVOY/WrcTR-SCFFI/AAAAAAAAGcM/DSfFBXnWdYUJsJUV1Ir10Ig8EafhbsBQACLcBGAs/s320/P3160207.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-4NreWOm-1m0/WrcTRxsYxTI/AAAAAAAAGcQ/J6sa3D13qeEDhKVG9tMinpJ2wh-oTVcVwCLcBGAs/s1600/P3160209.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-4NreWOm-1m0/WrcTRxsYxTI/AAAAAAAAGcQ/J6sa3D13qeEDhKVG9tMinpJ2wh-oTVcVwCLcBGAs/s320/P3160209.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-7ZcbccSnVu4/WrcTTOCimMI/AAAAAAAAGcY/smYT67hqqO4Fxv6mgggg2e-ni4YjOlycwCLcBGAs/s1600/P3160210.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-7ZcbccSnVu4/WrcTTOCimMI/AAAAAAAAGcY/smYT67hqqO4Fxv6mgggg2e-ni4YjOlycwCLcBGAs/s320/P3160210.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-R_U9sUu0_o0/WrcTTvmcP9I/AAAAAAAAGcc/hYxnDjBaEo0GD4xJBeghEXH9BolFVozEQCLcBGAs/s1600/P3160212.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-R_U9sUu0_o0/WrcTTvmcP9I/AAAAAAAAGcc/hYxnDjBaEo0GD4xJBeghEXH9BolFVozEQCLcBGAs/s320/P3160212.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<u><span style="color: #000120;"><br /></span></u></div>
<br />
<b>Ellie</b><br />
<b><br /></b>
<br />
Osprey 68 litre (short version) rucksack<br />
Sleeping bag - Yeti VIB250 small<br />
Exped 50 Litre drysack<br />
Thermarest Prolite bedmat extra small<br />
Polystyrene bedroll<br />
Montbell lightweight rain jacket<br />
Hooded sweatshirt (to be discarded as it gets warmer<br />
Steiner longsleeve silk baselayer<br />
Trespass summer walking trousers with detachable legs<br />
Nike runners T-shirt (lightweight)<br />
Standard T-shirt (medium weight)<br />
Montbell lightweight over trousers<br />
Exped poncho<br />
small travel towel<br />
2 pairs knickers<br />
2 x bras<br />
2 x pairs Bridgedale light hiker socks<br />
Lightweight gloves<br />
Mosquito headnet<br />
Buff<br />
Sunday Afternoons Adventure hat<br />
Montbell carbon walking poles<br />
Lowa Taurus GTX mid boots<br />
Weirdfish flipflops<br />
<br />
Sawyer Mini walter filter kit<br />
1x 2 metres cord plus 8 s<br />
<br />
Sea to Summit Nano 13 litre drysack<br />
Exped small drybag 5 litre<br />
Sea to Summit Ultra drybag 2 litre<br />
Montbell lightweight shoulder bag<br />
fabric bicycle clips for fastening trousers<br />
<br />
Japanese Phrasebook<br />
Shikoku 88 Temple Guidebook<br />
Japanese Pilgrimage Oliver Statler (paperback)<br />
Small notebook<br />
2 x biro pens<br />
<br />
Montbell aluminium mug<br />
Sea to Summit titanium spork with long handle<br />
<br />
Microsoft Surface Pro laptop<br />
Felt laptop case<br />
Olympus Tough TG-4 camera<br />
Camera case and spare battery<br />
Nokia 3310 retro phone (back up with long standby time)<br />
USB charging leads x2<br />
Laptop charging lead<br />
4 socket usb charger plug<br />
Petzl e+lite micro headlight<br />
mini light + cell batteries<br />
headphones<br />
<br />
Incognito insect repellent 100ml<br />
Coconut oil 50gm<br />
Hypertension tablets<br />
toothbrush<br />
toothpaste<br />
mini razor<br />
compressible water bottle x 2<br />
<br />
Variafoical sunglasses<br />
foldaway reading glasses<br />
ordinary reading glasses (may throw away)<br />
<br />
Money<br />
Passport<br />
Name cards<br />
<br />
Bag of coffee<br />
Bag of tea<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-W9EWYtlihEc/Wq-dQoqzWwI/AAAAAAAAGbM/1E0s_aAXbHg_RCCBu-QypY9Y69laPC58QCLcBGAs/s1600/P3170002.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-W9EWYtlihEc/Wq-dQoqzWwI/AAAAAAAAGbM/1E0s_aAXbHg_RCCBu-QypY9Y69laPC58QCLcBGAs/s320/P3170002.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<b></b><i></i><u></u><sub></sub><sup></sup><strike></strike><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
Lets see how much of this gets chucked along the way...<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br /></div>
Elliehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07671617922958041389noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2705526479207156981.post-36025802740755843882018-03-19T10:41:00.001+00:002018-03-19T11:31:21.907+00:00A hiatus in Osaka<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<br />
<b><i>'A journey of a thousand miles begins with a single step' </i></b><br />
<b><i>Lao-Tsu</i></b><br />
<b><i><br /></i></b>
<b><i>'A journey of a thousand miles begins with putting off the first step as long as possible' </i></b><b><i></i></b><br />
<b><i>Ellie Bennett</i></b><br />
<b><i><br /></i></b>
Having flown from the other side of the world, and knowing that our two days in Hong Kong were likely to be hectic, we had already booked accommodation for two days in Osaka to recover before starting our walk but we are so tired that we decide to extend our stay a further two nights to make sure we are fully rested for our long walk around Shikoku.<br />
<br />
We are staying in <a href="https://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/Hotel_Review-g298566-d6509398-Reviews-Boarding_House-Osaka_Osaka_Prefecture_Kinki.html">Boarding House, Osaka</a> a hostel in the Tennoji area, south of central Osaka. The proprietor here is friendly; when we brought our bicycles with us in 2013 he was incredibly helpful, letting us assemble and disassemble the bikes in his premises and storing our large cycle bags and other items for three months while we <a href="https://elliestravelstories.blogspot.jp/2013/09/shikoku-88-pilgrimage-temples-1-17.html">went cycling round Shikoku</a> for no charge at all.<br />
<br />
As soon as we are all checked in we head to the local supermarket in search of some lovely Japanese food.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-cKBjzfqYGfw/Wq94K-EXQlI/AAAAAAAAGW8/yXRbGmYk5IActTpRyR8aNJJAlJseDCVrACLcBGAs/s1600/P3150192.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-cKBjzfqYGfw/Wq94K-EXQlI/AAAAAAAAGW8/yXRbGmYk5IActTpRyR8aNJJAlJseDCVrACLcBGAs/s400/P3150192.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mick is in his favourite supermarket</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ybWVs4PBOHg/Wq97aq7zewI/AAAAAAAAGX0/DGT_t4fY7N42Hu8y74JOMeaaKl82sDp4gCLcBGAs/s1600/P3170251.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ybWVs4PBOHg/Wq97aq7zewI/AAAAAAAAGX0/DGT_t4fY7N42Hu8y74JOMeaaKl82sDp4gCLcBGAs/s320/P3170251.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">20% off</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Wc3JQHp_J6c/Wq97auG0eUI/AAAAAAAAGXw/NHlwI4EnwOsUlNAU0VHwVNc8ikhF1LXzACLcBGAs/s1600/P3170252.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Wc3JQHp_J6c/Wq97auG0eUI/AAAAAAAAGXw/NHlwI4EnwOsUlNAU0VHwVNc8ikhF1LXzACLcBGAs/s320/P3170252.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Half Price!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
A short walk from the hostel is Shitenno-ji, the temple which gave the area its name. <i>Shi</i> means 'four' and <i>Tenno </i>means king; <i>Shitenno-ji</i> is the temple of four heavenly kings. Originally constructed in the year 593 at the request of Prince Sh<span style="background-color: transparent; color: #222222; display: inline; float: none; font-family: "arial" , sans-serif; font-size: 13px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; line-height: 16.12px; text-align: left; text-decoration: none; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;">ō</span>toku, this was one of the earliest Buddhist temples in Japan. On the way we visit Koshindo Temple, where there is a shrine to the <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Three_wise_monkeys">three wise monkeys.</a> <br />
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-w19Fx8W7RXE/Wq94P0lUywI/AAAAAAAAGXQ/_JDIVBW0Mcczep4MDqVnVkdYdQ6sFzATgCLcBGAs/s1600/P3170220.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: #0066cc; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; orphans: 2; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-w19Fx8W7RXE/Wq94P0lUywI/AAAAAAAAGXQ/_JDIVBW0Mcczep4MDqVnVkdYdQ6sFzATgCLcBGAs/s400/P3170220.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">at Koshindo Temple</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b></b><i></i><u></u><sub></sub><sup></sup><strike></strike><br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-kxZQgCOevPo/Wq94QZzO1hI/AAAAAAAAGXU/nonNzjoSo6MzNIPtOtnb5cE6WwSDVWRbwCLcBGAs/s1600/P3170222.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: #0066cc; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; orphans: 2; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-kxZQgCOevPo/Wq94QZzO1hI/AAAAAAAAGXU/nonNzjoSo6MzNIPtOtnb5cE6WwSDVWRbwCLcBGAs/s400/P3170222.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><div>
Choganji Temple</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div>
<b></b><i></i><u></u><sub></sub><sup></sup><strike><br /></strike></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-3q9G6gNlBq0/Wq9-Lfo_CTI/AAAAAAAAGY0/ONgFRNmEr50tuVaHNjOlWsOmLgKZ4MKpwCLcBGAs/s320/P3170226.JPG" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: black; cursor: move; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; orphans: 2; text-align: center; text-decoration: none; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;" width="240" /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<b><br /></b></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-NPBKK06I6WI/Wq9-AcF3YtI/AAAAAAAAGYs/_vLFxurUMm4AzXop6U8AmPwoyB8iGW44ACLcBGAs/s1600/P3170227.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="background-color: transparent; color: #0066cc; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-NPBKK06I6WI/Wq9-AcF3YtI/AAAAAAAAGYs/_vLFxurUMm4AzXop6U8AmPwoyB8iGW44ACLcBGAs/s320/P3170227.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div>
<strike><br /></strike></div>
<div>
<strike><br /></strike></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-IwrmLTMGDiU/Wq98pLjbWXI/AAAAAAAAGYM/Pyuvc6Vh4eYIytOpi4a3DmcO90Z3wRWsQCLcBGAs/s1600/P3170233.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-IwrmLTMGDiU/Wq98pLjbWXI/AAAAAAAAGYM/Pyuvc6Vh4eYIytOpi4a3DmcO90Z3wRWsQCLcBGAs/s400/P3170233.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Shitenno-ji</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8IC_V2H61NU/Wq98o-_4wSI/AAAAAAAAGYE/jPlW30L8A-ADan0HBQRFkX9Vbo7sa3qvgCLcBGAs/s1600/P3170234.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8IC_V2H61NU/Wq98o-_4wSI/AAAAAAAAGYE/jPlW30L8A-ADan0HBQRFkX9Vbo7sa3qvgCLcBGAs/s400/P3170234.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-KkbJwrUZ9nY/Wq98t9otvlI/AAAAAAAAGYQ/hp3v92o8ARA2es18cq-OsDFcdbTTTM2YgCLcBGAs/s1600/P3170238.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-KkbJwrUZ9nY/Wq98t9otvlI/AAAAAAAAGYQ/hp3v92o8ARA2es18cq-OsDFcdbTTTM2YgCLcBGAs/s400/P3170238.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">5 Storey Pagoda</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-OJnpCQqZi2A/Wq982Z7v5ZI/AAAAAAAAGYY/5N-276iwlIo0M6Gy5jX48EJ5pj0LiVqlQCLcBGAs/s1600/P3170239.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-OJnpCQqZi2A/Wq982Z7v5ZI/AAAAAAAAGYY/5N-276iwlIo0M6Gy5jX48EJ5pj0LiVqlQCLcBGAs/s400/P3170239.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3Og9brRXOSo/Wq982bA_h1I/AAAAAAAAGYU/Iu5emu-G83kc_7r6Z5ypcEOGfe8u0TOZwCLcBGAs/s1600/P3170240.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3Og9brRXOSo/Wq982bA_h1I/AAAAAAAAGYU/Iu5emu-G83kc_7r6Z5ypcEOGfe8u0TOZwCLcBGAs/s400/P3170240.JPG" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lanterns at Shitenno-ji</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Despite visiting Osaka several times now, I've never been to Nara, famed as Japan's first permanent capital city and known for its historical buildings. It is also only 35 minutes away from Tennoji by train so we decide to spend a day here. The journey goes smoothly (of course it does, this is Japan!!). We make our way first to the magnificent <a href="https://www.japan-guide.com/e/e4100.html">Todaji Temple</a>. The main building here, the Daibutsuden, is the largest wooden building in the world and stepping through the enormous gateway, flanked on either side by <i>Nio</i> or <i>Kongo-rikishi,</i> guardians of the temple, I feel very small. The Daibutsuden houses a bronze Buddha seated on huge lotus petals. The statue is a full 15 metres high. On either side and almost as large, are two Bodhisattvas. They are utterly stunning.<u><span style="color: #000120;"><br /></span></u></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-jSFdvz9_a-I/Wq9_z8EbzpI/AAAAAAAAGZQ/rDt7oeSAOy4kAOeF9vDCkbgA_9b7kdm2gCLcBGAs/s1600/P3180025.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-jSFdvz9_a-I/Wq9_z8EbzpI/AAAAAAAAGZQ/rDt7oeSAOy4kAOeF9vDCkbgA_9b7kdm2gCLcBGAs/s640/P3180025.JPG" width="480" /></a></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-C2F0KYaBMF4/Wq9_zENH6xI/AAAAAAAAGZI/7Yf-vZEmR1ch7KcOBYIfQEpvBBTePEKCgCLcBGAs/s1600/P3180023.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: #0066cc; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; orphans: 2; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1375" height="400" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-C2F0KYaBMF4/Wq9_zENH6xI/AAAAAAAAGZI/7Yf-vZEmR1ch7KcOBYIfQEpvBBTePEKCgCLcBGAs/s400/P3180023.JPG" width="341" /></a></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
At the back of the hall is a wooden pillar with a hole in the base. Apparently, if you can squeeze through the hole you will be granted enlightenment in the next life. A queue of children and a few sporting adults wait to try it. The children slide easily through the hole, the adults have more trouble and many of them give up without really trying. One Western woman with a rather large backside steps up amid gasps and murmurs from the onlookers who clearly doubt whether she will make it through. It takes a few tugs from her partner but she manages it and smiles triumphantly at the crowd.<br />
'Fancy a go?' asks Mick. 'After all you used to be a caver, you should be able to do it'.<br />
'What about you?' I countered.<br />
'Oh I've done it before,' he says breezily, adding 'mind you that was 15 years ago.'<br />
I crouch down and look at the small hole. I could probably do it but the thought of getting stuck in there with all these onlookers doesn't appeal. 'I will do it at the end of my walk,' I say. 'I will be much thinner then. Hopefully'.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YKYtzd7qWx0/Wq-AN5nrlQI/AAAAAAAAGZU/Xf1nI1NmfQ0CCdm24rrvJ3ZsmB0Hp6xhwCLcBGAs/s1600/P3180031.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YKYtzd7qWx0/Wq-AN5nrlQI/AAAAAAAAGZU/Xf1nI1NmfQ0CCdm24rrvJ3ZsmB0Hp6xhwCLcBGAs/s400/P3180031.JPG" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">No problem for small children...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
We spend the rest of the day wandering around the many temples and shrines which are scattered through Nara Park, keeping a wary eye on the deer. We had a bad experience with deer on the island of Miyajima once - having left our lunch on the handlebars of our bicycles we returned to find the deer had eaten the lot - food, packaging, wooden chopsticks -everything. All that was left was a tell-tale sliver of plastic stuck to the side of the deer's face. Mick had not been happy. The deer here at Nara looked better fed however and there were lots of vendors selling biscuits for them. Our brochure claimed that 'the deer in this park are so polite that they bow to you when they ask you for Shika Senbei' (deer crackers). Hmm, I didn't see much bowing going on when I saw a dozen of them chasing a woman across the park for their Shika Senbei!<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-1RyHRAgUrDM/Wq-E1UmJefI/AAAAAAAAGaU/XTL4DZ3uyZk5xdz1Mg9InU5_s68TyOQjgCLcBGAs/s1600/P3180011.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-1RyHRAgUrDM/Wq-E1UmJefI/AAAAAAAAGaU/XTL4DZ3uyZk5xdz1Mg9InU5_s68TyOQjgCLcBGAs/s400/P3180011.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
We visit <a href="https://www.japan-guide.com/e/e4102.html">Kasuga Taisha</a> Shinto shrine, which we learn is the shrine responsible for the deer being in the park in the first place. According to the legend, when the shrine was founded, a god from Kashima Shrine came to Nara riding on a white deer and since then they have been protected as divine messengers.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-KBymiblefPQ/Wq-BYoo0fsI/AAAAAAAAGZ0/dhqqNzIZwOkDts4zVywaL7j7thQiKKONACLcBGAs/s1600/P3180052.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-KBymiblefPQ/Wq-BYoo0fsI/AAAAAAAAGZ0/dhqqNzIZwOkDts4zVywaL7j7thQiKKONACLcBGAs/s400/P3180052.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kasuga Taisha shrine</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-0-SzYJWSLHU/Wq-A8UVvqHI/AAAAAAAAGZs/LUVhRHBonUktHGzYi60A9YHz8XQnw9G8wCLcBGAs/s1600/P3180046.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: #0066cc; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; orphans: 2; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-0-SzYJWSLHU/Wq-A8UVvqHI/AAAAAAAAGZs/LUVhRHBonUktHGzYi60A9YHz8XQnw9G8wCLcBGAs/s400/P3180046.JPG" width="300" /></a></div>
<b></b><i></i><u></u><sub></sub><sup></sup><strike></strike><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<u><span style="color: #000120;"><b></b><i></i><sub></sub><sup></sup><strike></strike><br /></span></u></div>
The path up to the shrine is lined with thousands of stone lanterns and the shrine itself is bedecked with hundreds more brass ones. The lanterns are lit twice a year for festivals which must be a pretty time consuming job in itself.<br />
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: "times new roman"; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-bottom: 8px; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; padding: 6px; text-align: center; text-decoration: none; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><tbody style="margin-bottom: 0px; padding-bottom: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;">
<tr style="margin-bottom: 0px; padding-bottom: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;"><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/--CW6Pvg9pGQ/Wq-BxDkqa4I/AAAAAAAAGaE/krIZbazerf8J1Kgi1ML41bE7Bh_5rmt2QCLcBGAs/s1600/P3180042.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/--CW6Pvg9pGQ/Wq-BxDkqa4I/AAAAAAAAGaE/krIZbazerf8J1Kgi1ML41bE7Bh_5rmt2QCLcBGAs/s400/P3180042.JPG" style="cursor: move;" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr style="margin-bottom: 0px; padding-bottom: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;"><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px; padding-top: 4px; text-align: center;">Lanterns on the path to Kasuga Taisha shrine</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Nara deserves more than the day we were able to spare it and I hope we will be able to return after our walk on Shikoku.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-OhQW-aDQGFw/Wq-BPRumnuI/AAAAAAAAGZw/3StUERFokC0QjyI5x7CKKVU7G-VFabO8ACEwYBhgL/s1600/P3180035%2B%25282%2529.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: #0066cc; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; orphans: 2; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1360" data-original-width="1600" height="271" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-OhQW-aDQGFw/Wq-BPRumnuI/AAAAAAAAGZw/3StUERFokC0QjyI5x7CKKVU7G-VFabO8ACEwYBhgL/s320/P3180035%2B%25282%2529.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
No visit to Osaka would be complete without visiting our favourite little bar (<i>izakaya</i>) in Tennoji. Hidden behind the neon lights and the shopfronts near the station is a network of narrow backstreets, a little bit of old Tennoji. As usual we cannot find the place we are looking for and wander up and down the narrow streets. Just when we are about to give up and assume it has closed, we find we are standing outside it. A glass door slides open to reveal a narrow room crammed with people stood shoulder to shoulder at the counter. We are gratified to discover that the owner, a diminutive woman who rules the place with a rod of iron, remembers us. 'Two years ago?' she asks.<br />
'Four' we reply, and she shakes her head disbelievingly. How time flies!<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-bottom: 8px; margin-left: 170.5px; margin-right: 170.5px; orphans: 2; padding-bottom: 6px; padding-left: 6px; padding-right: 6px; padding-top: 6px; text-align: center; text-decoration: none; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><tbody style="margin-bottom: 0px; padding-bottom: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;">
<tr style="margin-bottom: 0px; padding-bottom: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;"><td style="text-align: center;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;">
<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-v9cURZmcG6Y/Wq94LOMDUWI/AAAAAAAAGXA/1jkSho8756s9konr_ZK6_znZDpsfzAI6wCLcBGAs/s1600/P3150197.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="background-color: transparent; color: #0066cc; font-family: &quot; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-v9cURZmcG6Y/Wq94LOMDUWI/AAAAAAAAGXA/1jkSho8756s9konr_ZK6_znZDpsfzAI6wCLcBGAs/s400/P3150197.JPG" width="300" /></a></div>
</td></tr>
<tr style="margin-bottom: 0px; padding-bottom: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;"><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px; padding-top: 4px; text-align: center;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;">
Hidden backstreets in Tennoji</div>
</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b><br /></b>
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-YOqXXEW0eIE/Wq-QpYEe9dI/AAAAAAAAGao/a7NZAkxUWIUJmLfSMqNZi91uWz7ZqlwOQCLcBGAs/s1600/osakabar.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-YOqXXEW0eIE/Wq-QpYEe9dI/AAAAAAAAGao/a7NZAkxUWIUJmLfSMqNZi91uWz7ZqlwOQCLcBGAs/s320/osakabar.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-GsI0YDAonR4/Wq-QpOW0VBI/AAAAAAAAGak/JYlhgLZH0AgpsFpNidhDdYka6CxoXbglwCLcBGAs/s1600/Osakabars.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-GsI0YDAonR4/Wq-QpOW0VBI/AAAAAAAAGak/JYlhgLZH0AgpsFpNidhDdYka6CxoXbglwCLcBGAs/s320/Osakabars.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our favourite bar</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
We shuffle in and take our places at a small space at the bar. The owner clearly remembers that our Japanese is poor and brings a picture menu. This time Mick is not tempted by the Hell Tofu, tofu laced with chilli, after which he suffered greatly the last time we were here. <br />
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: black; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-bottom: 8px; margin-left: 120.5px; margin-right: 120.5px; orphans: 2; padding-bottom: 6px; padding-left: 6px; padding-right: 6px; padding-top: 6px; text-align: center; text-decoration: none; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><tbody style="margin-bottom: 0px; padding-bottom: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;">
<tr style="margin-bottom: 0px; padding-bottom: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;"><td style="text-align: center;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;">
<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-HjaDPcuMGCo/Wq94NXH5a3I/AAAAAAAAGXI/PXEbDP9LBEQb1qInxMNjjxvahN7rKs2kgCLcBGAs/s1600/P3150202.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="background-color: transparent; color: #0066cc; font-family: &quot; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-HjaDPcuMGCo/Wq94NXH5a3I/AAAAAAAAGXI/PXEbDP9LBEQb1qInxMNjjxvahN7rKs2kgCLcBGAs/s400/P3150202.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
</td></tr>
<tr style="margin-bottom: 0px; padding-bottom: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;"><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 12.8px; padding-top: 4px; text-align: center;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;">
Hell Tofu</div>
</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b><br /></b>
Remove waste products it most certainly did. Perhaps we should go for 'a chicken strangled in the morning' instead.<br />
<br />
Every now and again more people arrive and our host yells at her customers to move up and we all obediently shuffle down the bar. It is impossible not to talk to your neighbour in a place like this and we have an enjoyable evening chatting to some of the locals despite our limited Japanese.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-3IK_kdpcI5A/Wq94Nx_uMKI/AAAAAAAAGXM/m_mCOs95pCAq5pRwN3LW6L5F09KsfHHfQCLcBGAs/s1600/P3150203.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; background-color: transparent; color: #0066cc; font-family: Times New Roman; font-size: 16px; font-style: normal; font-variant: normal; font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; orphans: 2; text-align: center; text-decoration: underline; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-3IK_kdpcI5A/Wq94Nx_uMKI/AAAAAAAAGXM/m_mCOs95pCAq5pRwN3LW6L5F09KsfHHfQCLcBGAs/s400/P3150203.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b></b><i></i><u></u><sub></sub><sup></sup><strike></strike><br />
But now our four days rest have come to an end and there's no delaying it any further. Tomorrow morning, Tuesday 20th March, we catch the bus to Shikoku and start our walk around the island. And it has started raining.<br />
<br />
<br />
<b></b><i></i><u></u><sub></sub><sup></sup><strike></strike><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<i><br /></i>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<b></b><i><b></b></i><i><b><br /></b></i>
<br />
<br /></div>
Elliehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07671617922958041389noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2705526479207156981.post-36990079147296857552018-03-16T03:45:00.000+00:002018-03-16T08:27:20.937+00:00We reach Japan (via Hong Kong)<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
The last couple of days have been pretty exhausting and we haven't even started walking yet.<br />
<br />
The flight from London to Hong Kong went smoothly and we were looked after very well (thank you Cathay Pacific) but a 12 hour flight is still a 12 hour flight. The in-flight system tells you if there is not enough time to watch a film before landing and so I watched Henry Fonda in<i> 12 Angry Men</i> on fast forward for the final hour. Watching it at x2 doesn't really do it justice but it's still one of my favourite films of all time.<br />
<br />
By the time we arrived at Hong Kong airport it was 6pm local time (GMT+8) so we checked in to our hotel in Kowloon and headed out for a beer in one of the local bars at eye-watering prices. The following morning we headed over to Hong Kong Island on the <u><span style="color: #000120;"><a href="http://www.starferry.com.hk/en/home">Star Ferry</a></span></u> described by National Geographic as one of the 50 places of a lifetime to visit. Even in the rain it was a fantastic way to cross Victoria Harbour on historic ferryboats for less than HK$3 per person (they cost about £0.27 pence). From the landing pier it was just a short walk into the centre of town.<br />
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cJSzE_dt_Mw/Wqs38NPI9II/AAAAAAAAGVI/v96PHpWijywPpduoVGuMgd_4DA2H7s-ZQCLcBGAs/s1600/P3140098.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cJSzE_dt_Mw/Wqs38NPI9II/AAAAAAAAGVI/v96PHpWijywPpduoVGuMgd_4DA2H7s-ZQCLcBGAs/s320/P3140098.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-gWNV75B3vdE/Wqs375IFE5I/AAAAAAAAGVE/3CukiaMWCG46tKUutfnIjF0hgkjXYuhkgCLcBGAs/s1600/P3140099.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-gWNV75B3vdE/Wqs375IFE5I/AAAAAAAAGVE/3CukiaMWCG46tKUutfnIjF0hgkjXYuhkgCLcBGAs/s320/P3140099.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-l84FDfWatfI/Wqs4FmAeALI/AAAAAAAAGVM/lo9MEI3bWKwKESMc7t6mfWTqzN7_Kh8XgCLcBGAs/s1600/P3140105.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-l84FDfWatfI/Wqs4FmAeALI/AAAAAAAAGVM/lo9MEI3bWKwKESMc7t6mfWTqzN7_Kh8XgCLcBGAs/s320/P3140105.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Star Ferry</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
We spent the first couple of hours wandering about, getting stiff necks from gazing up to marvel at the height of the buildings.There is serious high-end shopping to be had here for those with the money and the inclination and the centre of Hong Kong is one massive luxury shopping mall. As neither of us has a fixed address anymore, buying anything seemed pretty pointless even if we could afford it (which we couldn't) and so we soon tired of this and hopped on one of Hong Kong's <a href="https://www.hktramways.com/">lovely double decker trams</a> which have been running along these streets for over a hundred years, choosing the one to North Point for no better reason than it was less crowded than the others so we got a seat on the top deck. (The trams are all a flat fare of HK$23 (£0.21) and you need to put the correct money in the box as you won't get change.)<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-BriuwEyTKTs/Wqs4SktFnLI/AAAAAAAAGVU/che_ul8ucII6XaRIYU321P3dBKNKcIxRQCLcBGAs/s1600/P3140121.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-BriuwEyTKTs/Wqs4SktFnLI/AAAAAAAAGVU/che_ul8ucII6XaRIYU321P3dBKNKcIxRQCLcBGAs/s320/P3140121.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Central Hong Kong</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-aQRvnz03acY/Wqs4SVjahBI/AAAAAAAAGVQ/cu2v7Lti3ZUv4bZkNYDsFtpZ4bexpo5EACLcBGAs/s1600/P3140125.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-aQRvnz03acY/Wqs4SVjahBI/AAAAAAAAGVQ/cu2v7Lti3ZUv4bZkNYDsFtpZ4bexpo5EACLcBGAs/s320/P3140125.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hong Kong tram</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
North Point turned out to be interesting with a busy wet market on <a href="http://www.discoverhongkong.com/eng/shop/where-to-shop/street-markets-and-shopping-streets/chun-yeung-street.jsp">Chun Yeung Street</a> crammed with butchers, greengrocers and fishmongers, their wares piled high. The fish was fresh, much of it was still swimming around, including one unfortunate eel whose back half had already been sold. Butchers sold every part of the animal here with nothing wasted although I have to say pigs nose didn't really appeal to me. <br />
<br />
On the way back into town we worried how we were going to get off the packed tram. We were standing right <span style="font-size: small;"></span>at the back where you enter but you have to exit from the front and we couldn't see how we would ever get through the throng of standing passengers. We asked a woman standing next to us and she laughed. 'Follow me, I'll show you what to do'. She began gently pushing her way through the narrow tram - 'Excuse me, I need to get off soon, excuse me' until suddenly we were at the front of the tram. So that's how it's done!
<br />
<br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: inherit;"><br /></span>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-unZyuh4e_YU/Wqs5nNrB9YI/AAAAAAAAGWM/nF7G_ZmgYRspvIzbBSXfl2ZcDMIcN6_SgCLcBGAs/s1600/P3140112.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="798" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-unZyuh4e_YU/Wqs5nNrB9YI/AAAAAAAAGWM/nF7G_ZmgYRspvIzbBSXfl2ZcDMIcN6_SgCLcBGAs/s320/P3140112.JPG" width="159" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><div>
Window in St John's </div>
<div>
Anglican Church</div>
</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-KGDuxjfEBXA/Wqs5nPEFaSI/AAAAAAAAGWI/Yd_gkvwuWcEFy9x2rxb_hHupEB-9ECknwCLcBGAs/s1600/P3140117.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-KGDuxjfEBXA/Wqs5nPEFaSI/AAAAAAAAGWI/Yd_gkvwuWcEFy9x2rxb_hHupEB-9ECknwCLcBGAs/s320/P3140117.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><div>
One of four surviving gas lights </div>
<div>
in Hong Kong</div>
</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-2k4L0zR_jMU/Wqs5qQVol6I/AAAAAAAAGWQ/1sdXM5e3JCwS4vF_AbPABFs16ok6QoFcgCLcBGAs/s1600/P3140128.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-2k4L0zR_jMU/Wqs5qQVol6I/AAAAAAAAGWQ/1sdXM5e3JCwS4vF_AbPABFs16ok6QoFcgCLcBGAs/s320/P3140128.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Erecting bamboo scaffolding </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ZQmXO74N5Dc/Wqs5zs6Gd0I/AAAAAAAAGWU/k8C1_dBQnT0T6p7WMONI18p2w5XWpztNACLcBGAs/s1600/P3140182.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ZQmXO74N5Dc/Wqs5zs6Gd0I/AAAAAAAAGWU/k8C1_dBQnT0T6p7WMONI18p2w5XWpztNACLcBGAs/s320/P3140182.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-CtASnw3Ztbs/Wqs53Fd4eeI/AAAAAAAAGWY/njJbKTqWnRo8-tFRmMymorz_p9vHwwEdACLcBGAs/s1600/P3140137.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-CtASnw3Ztbs/Wqs53Fd4eeI/AAAAAAAAGWY/njJbKTqWnRo8-tFRmMymorz_p9vHwwEdACLcBGAs/s320/P3140137.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mick warming his hands!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
In the afternoon we rode Peak Tram which is not actually a tram but a funicular railway which climbs 1.4km up Victoria Peak rising 400 metres in a series of climbs which reminded me of a roller coaster.<br />
<br />
At the top you can ascend through a shopping mall to reach the <a href="https://www.thepeak.com.hk/">Sky Terrace</a> which is 428m above sea level. Mick checked his new watch - if it still said we were under the sea there was something wrong! (see post for 12 March). It more or less tallied much to his relief. It was tipping with rain by now so I didn't spend too long outside but the view of Hong Kong from up here was fantastic. Lugard Road and Harlech Road form <a href="http://www.discoverhongkong.com/eng/see-do/great-outdoors/hikes/peak-circle-walk.jsp">a circular route</a> around the peak and as the sun went down and the rain eased, we followed the path and enjoyed great views of Hong Kong and Kowloon by night with the coloured neon skyscrapers providing a wonderful light show. Mick found the path challenging with his vertigo so we decided to head back to the visitor centre and rode the railway back down the mountain. On the descent everyone is facing backwards and the sensation of a rollercoaster was even stronger this time!<br />
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-AfYcLeaO4-4/Wqs4jqzpX3I/AAAAAAAAGVc/AGnhT1kL2E4X5k2Co5TzGavqMUIVOD1kgCLcBGAs/s1600/P3140159.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-AfYcLeaO4-4/Wqs4jqzpX3I/AAAAAAAAGVc/AGnhT1kL2E4X5k2Co5TzGavqMUIVOD1kgCLcBGAs/s320/P3140159.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hong Kong skyline</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-cxrJcGRendQ/Wqs4krH1PbI/AAAAAAAAGVo/MHpG4iDwYL8Ij0NTxOKDXlUdR5uSAfdXgCLcBGAs/s1600/P3140162.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-cxrJcGRendQ/Wqs4krH1PbI/AAAAAAAAGVo/MHpG4iDwYL8Ij0NTxOKDXlUdR5uSAfdXgCLcBGAs/s320/P3140162.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hong Kong at night</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-IuK6RlZlDOA/Wqs4lH1QtyI/AAAAAAAAGVw/2lr8qxFglQAQcVyazooqwE5feN_aZviIQCLcBGAs/s1600/P3140167.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-IuK6RlZlDOA/Wqs4lH1QtyI/AAAAAAAAGVw/2lr8qxFglQAQcVyazooqwE5feN_aZviIQCLcBGAs/s320/P3140167.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hong Kong skyline with Kowloon behind</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hWIXKTRyPE4/Wqs4lk85PYI/AAAAAAAAGV0/KRodag1cu3waMnJNUolFmwY5CL-EWZFlwCLcBGAs/s1600/P3140174.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hWIXKTRyPE4/Wqs4lk85PYI/AAAAAAAAGV0/KRodag1cu3waMnJNUolFmwY5CL-EWZFlwCLcBGAs/s320/P3140174.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Colonial post box</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Our plane was due to leave at 8am the following morning and so we had figured it wasn't worth a second nights' accommodation. Now, after walking some 25km today we wondered whether this had been the right choice. We had nowhere to stay tonight and we had 12 hours to kill. In the end it worked out ok. We found a nice restaurant and dawdled here a while and then dawdled in a bar for a bit longer. At midnight we returned to the hotel where we had stayed the previous night, collected our backpacks and caught a taxi to the airport. We only had another 8 hour wait until the plane departed! More time to read my book which should have been read months, no, years ago (see post for 12 March again).<br />
<br />
The flight from Hong Kong to Kansai Osaka was less than three hours and passed quickly. The steward seemed a little worried when we ordered the Chinese breakfast of chicken congee rather than English egg and sausage. 'I will show you,' she said. She brought one of them on its little tray and asked me to lift the lid so I could see the food, a kind of chicken and rice porridge. 'Ok?' she asked? We nodded, yes fine, and she seemed satisfied. We had both had enough of English breakfasts and the congee was delicious.<br />
<br />
As we flew over Shikoku the clouds disappeared and we had an incredible view of the island from high above. Miniscule boats criss-crossed tiny harbours leaving white trails across the green sea and tiny houses and streets lined the edge of the coast. This was Cape Ashizuri. We would be arriving here by foot, we hoped, in a few weeks time. We were at that point both gripped by the same feeling of trepidation, the same question in our minds, 'Can we really walk around this island?' At that moment it seemed utterly implausible and incredibly daunting, even though we had walked it before.<br />
<br />
We crossed the mysterious dark green mountains of central Shikoku and the wide, flat plains alongside the mighty Yoshino river. Then, as we left Shikoku, we could see the Great Naruto Bridge and underneath, the swirling waters of the <a href="https://www.japan-guide.com/e/e7852.html">Naruto whirlpools</a>. Now it was only 7.30am but later today countless tourists would walk onto the bridge and, standing on glass panels, gaze down at the frothy white spirals that form here, <a href="http://elliestravelstories.blogspot.jp/2013/09/shikoku-88-pilgrimage.html">just as we had done five years ago</a>.<br />
<u><span style="color: #000120;"><br /></span></u>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-4CMhvHwzNKo/Wqs8SKfflGI/AAAAAAAAGWs/5F1l8P1wXIAjj7Yqe3N59BOSAgxgOeK6QCLcBGAs/s1600/Naruto1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-4CMhvHwzNKo/Wqs8SKfflGI/AAAAAAAAGWs/5F1l8P1wXIAjj7Yqe3N59BOSAgxgOeK6QCLcBGAs/s320/Naruto1.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<u><span style="color: #000032;"><br /></span></u>
<br />
We flew over Awaji Island where on the east coast we could see the enormous towering white <a href="https://awajishimablog.wordpress.com/giant-kannon-statue/">statue of Kannon</a>. Finally. we landed at Kansai and disembarked. A small delay at immigration where the officer was curious as to why we would be here for three months and then we reached the concourse. This time I knew better than to join the massive queue in the JR (Japan Railways) office to buy a ticket - the machines have a button for English and are straightforward to use. As we speed into Osaka on the airport express train I am so pleased to be back here in Japan.<br />
<u><span style="color: #000120;"><br /></span></u>
<br />
<br />
<br /></div>
Elliehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07671617922958041389noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2705526479207156981.post-49508368235848379592018-03-12T21:23:00.001+00:002018-03-15T23:57:16.315+00:00Returning to Shikoku, Japan<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
It is four years since my friend Mick and I walked the<span id="goog_1075815072"></span><a href="https://www.blogger.com/"></a><span id="goog_1075815073"></span> 88 Temple pilgrimage walk on Shikoku, Japan and today we find ourselves at Heathrow airport waiting for a plane to go out and do it all over again, Four years is long enough to have forgotten the pain or at least dulled the memory of it, yet is recent enough to vividly recall all the wonderful moments on this walk around the smallest of Japan's four main islands.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3QqZpTqJ6MA/Wqbs45TjSJI/AAAAAAAAGTo/5v3s2Nne9tQyO4dXWKh1ZjscT_3pPSEyQCLcBGAs/s1600/shikoku_map.gif" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="357" data-original-width="461" height="247" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3QqZpTqJ6MA/Wqbs45TjSJI/AAAAAAAAGTo/5v3s2Nne9tQyO4dXWKh1ZjscT_3pPSEyQCLcBGAs/s320/shikoku_map.gif" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
Shikoku - fourth island made up of four provinces (<i>shi</i> means four) is the most rural and least populated of Japan's main islands. It was here that Kobo Daishi, founder of Shingon Buddhism and one of the most well known figures in Japanese history was born in 774, and the pilgrimage around the island is a route which people believe is one he would have taken in his lifetime. Along the route there are 88 temples which the pilgrim visits, plus a further 20 <i>bekkaku</i> temples. There are hundreds of <i>bangai</i> or additional temples on Shikoku - the 20 <i>bekkaku </i>are the ones which are officially associated with the main 88 temples. (See <a href="http://www.shikokuhenrotrail.com/shikoku/walkingBangaiOkunoin.html">here</a> for an in depth explanation).<br />
<br />
As before, the majority of the time we will be camping (<i>nojuko</i>) with the occasional room thrown in when we are desperate. The walk should take around 70 days - give or take - and we have another 15 days built in just in case. Whether we visit the <i>bekkaku </i>is yet to be decided. If so the distance will be something like 1300km, if not then it will be around 1150km although these figures do not include the additional distances walked to find a suitable camping spot or going off in search of food. Luckily Mick has splashed out on a Suunto watch which allegedly will measure every step (assuming we stick together) as well as height above sea level, route maps etc - once he works out how to use it. He has spent the last two weeks trying to convince me I am thirty metres under sea level when I am standing at the top of Park Street, Bristol.<br />
<br />
We arrived at the airport 8 hours early which was probably a <i>little</i> bit over cautious but I just don't trust National Express. Better to be too early than being stressed out and getting here late. <br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-iP2G1YLJ1zQ/WqgYO6qcinI/AAAAAAAAGUI/kHuG8Vpvpt4gPPPcPtyB9cd8DCYAeIWGgCLcBGAs/s1600/P3120091.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-iP2G1YLJ1zQ/WqgYO6qcinI/AAAAAAAAGUI/kHuG8Vpvpt4gPPPcPtyB9cd8DCYAeIWGgCLcBGAs/s320/P3120091.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mick whiling away 8 hours at the airport</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
We've wandered round the perfume shop and sprayed ourselves with a dozen different scents, and played with all the gadgets in the electronics store. We've marvelled at the £1700 price tag on a bottle of Glenmorangie in the whisky shop and chatted to the proprietor about Japanese Yamazaki whisky which you could buy in every corner store last time we were in Japan but now is apparently rarer than hen's teeth, at least in the UK, as Suntory cannot produce it quickly enough to satisfy demand. She advised us to bring some back and sell it if we find any for sale in Japan.<br />
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xXfAvzJ91Js/WqgYPQIxD9I/AAAAAAAAGUM/694Vv_ZDi94jH1fJiKtOVf5GmaLGFLpwgCLcBGAs/s1600/P3120092.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xXfAvzJ91Js/WqgYPQIxD9I/AAAAAAAAGUM/694Vv_ZDi94jH1fJiKtOVf5GmaLGFLpwgCLcBGAs/s320/P3120092.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Whisky Galore</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Only an hour to go now - Mick is watching football on iplayer and I am reading Oliver Statler's classic <i>Japanese Pilgrimage, </i>a book I have been meaning to read for the past four years now.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-gXcnJJB9doA/WqbvE8IFjJI/AAAAAAAAGT0/i7ffaCe3PaUlHIIaE-lgYcKVeTdkB1niwCLcBGAs/s1600/Japanese%2Bpilgrimage.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="293" data-original-width="192" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-gXcnJJB9doA/WqbvE8IFjJI/AAAAAAAAGT0/i7ffaCe3PaUlHIIaE-lgYcKVeTdkB1niwCLcBGAs/s1600/Japanese%2Bpilgrimage.jpg" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
In my next post I will itemise the kit we have brought with us and wonder whether we got it right this time or whether we will again end up disposing of various items along the way in an effort to shed some weight off our backs...<br />
<i></i><i></i><br />
<br />
<i><br /></i>
<br />
<b></b><i></i><u></u><sub></sub><sup></sup><strike></strike><br /></div>
Elliehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07671617922958041389noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2705526479207156981.post-65779780482963088272016-03-28T07:07:00.000+01:002016-04-18T22:45:27.624+01:00Walking the Coleridge Way - Day 4<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-fAyFn_qd4g8/Vws8IupgkHI/AAAAAAAAFHs/GGwWfMEqzl4jZpz_kbkqLgDvtS4MIGVRw/s1600/20160328_101558.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-fAyFn_qd4g8/Vws8IupgkHI/AAAAAAAAFHs/GGwWfMEqzl4jZpz_kbkqLgDvtS4MIGVRw/s320/20160328_101558.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Brendon Valley</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Mick had been so right to insist we did not camp yesterday evening. It had rained all night and had we been out on the green we would have woken up feeling damp and grumpy. As it was, having strewn our gear about the room, it had all dried off nicely and I had also thoroughly enjoyed a long hot soak in the bath - which had been heavenly. This morning we tucked into a huge breakfast of cereal, a full English with all the trimmings plus toast and marmalade along with copious amounts of tea - followed by coffee - before our final day's walk into Lynmouth.<br />
<br />
As we had managed to cover around 20 miles yesterday we were now left with a comfortable five mile bimble down the Brendon Valley, so we had no intention of rushing out before the last piece of toast had been consumed and the coffee jug emptied to the last drop. But finally the time came - and by now the sun had come out - so we set off across the bridge and down the ineffably beautiful Brendon Valley.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-EwBnLx9DdNw/Vws8pvdCyGI/AAAAAAAAFH0/QxxcwlgJyl89NF1tiC8lJdi6OilnlxFqA/s1600/20160328_105404.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="192" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-EwBnLx9DdNw/Vws8pvdCyGI/AAAAAAAAFH0/QxxcwlgJyl89NF1tiC8lJdi6OilnlxFqA/s320/20160328_105404.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Somewhere en route to Watersmeet</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-8OLnPoewXHI/Vws9McoXgBI/AAAAAAAAFIA/CouvtxuQAh4vyjsTLmHy43ySEM6XE_wnA/s1600/20160328_105500.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-8OLnPoewXHI/Vws9McoXgBI/AAAAAAAAFIA/CouvtxuQAh4vyjsTLmHy43ySEM6XE_wnA/s320/20160328_105500.jpg" width="192" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Passing through the courtyard of Countisbury Mill the path followed the East Lyn River along the valley, past the hamlet of Roadwater with its riverside pub. Steep, tree-covered banks rose from both sides of the river valley which tumbles its way down waterfalls and swirling pools to meet Hoar Oak Water at Watersmeet. Here the former fishing lodge, built in 1832, is now a National Trust tea-room - although it looks like a fairytale cottage, set in a secluded glad amidst the trees with the river tumbling past the garden. The lodge was built for the reclusive Rev. Walter Stevenson Halliday who also built Glenthorne House and above the door is a poem penned by Wordsworth.<br />
<br />
Although we had only walked a couple of miles since breakfast we were taking it easy today and so stopped for yet another cup of coffee. The small birds hereabouts know which side their bread, scones and cake is buttered and the garden was full of chaffinches, blue-tits and robins who variously took it in turns to work up the courage to land on the tables and collect the copious crumbs we put out for them.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-zbJ374QzXFE/Vws9Nyzxf2I/AAAAAAAAFIE/_2TWSsMnYyYuS2LkGMRJOKO-GsevqqWBQ/s1600/20160328_110844.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-zbJ374QzXFE/Vws9Nyzxf2I/AAAAAAAAFIE/_2TWSsMnYyYuS2LkGMRJOKO-GsevqqWBQ/s320/20160328_110844.jpg" width="192" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Checking the route</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Q6coRXvMBsI/Vws9iF2_5GI/AAAAAAAAFIQ/_kY-wIchaMQ_hpqw3vO-mT3LFzllaVupA/s1600/20160328_113953.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Q6coRXvMBsI/Vws9iF2_5GI/AAAAAAAAFIQ/_kY-wIchaMQ_hpqw3vO-mT3LFzllaVupA/s320/20160328_113953.jpg" width="192" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Another coffee...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-EEjlGnfAWb8/Vws9e9VQQiI/AAAAAAAAFIM/GQ1pSvMDxdsWu3p5G65ygak8WpuQG4Z6A/s1600/20160328_115110.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="192" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-EEjlGnfAWb8/Vws9e9VQQiI/AAAAAAAAFIM/GQ1pSvMDxdsWu3p5G65ygak8WpuQG4Z6A/s320/20160328_115110.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tame blue-tit</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-3EZsl8RWaEU/Vws9ehEaAaI/AAAAAAAAFII/S3LW5N8Ij6kEzQpu6tXlL-e_b4egde4tw/s1600/20160328_115652.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="192" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-3EZsl8RWaEU/Vws9ehEaAaI/AAAAAAAAFII/S3LW5N8Ij6kEzQpu6tXlL-e_b4egde4tw/s320/20160328_115652.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">And a confident robin</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
From Watersmeet the path climbs high into the woods above the river but I had another refusal from Mick - he claimed it was his vertigo but I'm fairly sure he just couldn't be bothered with the high route and so we followed the 'tourist route' alongside the river and into Lynmouth. Just before the bridge the East Lyn is joined by the West Lyn River which started its journey high up at Exmoor's Chains - a plateau on the western side of the moors. This boggy area acts like a sponge absorbing the rainful which is plentiful here. On one fateful night in August 1952 these bogs were overwhelmed by the vast quantity of rain which - by a strange quirk of nature - came down with the intensity of a tropical rainstorm. The volume was too much for the ground to absorb and instead the water rushed down the river valleys...until it reached Lynmouth. The river here had been culverted through the village and behind the bridges the river became choked with fallen trees, boulders and debris, causing the river to back up down the valley.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
Thirty four people died and four hundred and twenty lost their homes that night. My parents, keen cyclists at the time, had stopped at Lynmouth the night before on their way down from Bristol to my grandparents house at Bideford and I can't help but wonder what might have happened to them had they happened to have set out a day later on their ride. It might have changed my history - perhaps I would not have been sitting here writing this now.<br />
<br />
Emerging into Lynmouth it is easy to see how the village warned the epithet "The English Switzerland". The name was coined by Robert Southey who visited here in 1799. At the time Europe was out of bounds due to the Napoleonic Wars and so, deprived of the Grand Tour, people were forced to holiday at home. Lynmouth, to its credit, quickly caught on the economic potential and soon Swiss style hotels and villas were popping up all over the hills. It has been used in local marketing and tourist literature ever since. Well done Southey!<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
There is something remarkable about this unique and beautiful place - and it's no wonder that not only Southey, but also Percy Bysshe Shelley waxed lyrical about it when he honeymooned here in 1812, as did Coleridge who, in 1798 in a letter to his publisher Joseph Cottle wrote: "<span style="white-space: pre-wrap;">we will go on a roam to Linton and Linmouth, which, if thou comest in May, will be in all their pride of woods and waterfalls, not to speak of its august cliffs, and the green ocean, and the vast valley of stones, all which live disdainful of the seasons,</span><span style="white-space: pre-wrap;"> or accept new honours only from the winter's snow."</span><br />
<span style="white-space: pre-wrap;"><br /></span>
<span style="white-space: pre-wrap;">For us it was journey's end of our four day sojourn in the land of poets. Although we had maybe cheated a little at the end due to Mick's fear of heights, </span>we reckoned we had done enough of the Coleridge Way to justify claiming our certificates and so we headed for the Exmoor Park Visitor centre . We proudly informed the nice woman at the desk that we had just completed the walk and she obligingly completed two certificates with our names to record the fact we had walked the route. We badgered another member of staff to take our picture before strolling back to the car, stopping on route for a celebratory bag of chips.<br />
<br />
Four days, 51 miles (plus a couple of erroneous ones), three nights free accommodation, one B&B, a respectable number of pints of beer (c.15?) and a certificate! All-in-all a thoroughly enjoyable and successful Easter Weekend Jaunt.<br />
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CopoSkdDnIs/Vws98Yc4DaI/AAAAAAAAFIY/mkOaR1M2TsQEq9PD6QvLTf3VEsQG6M-kQ/s1600/20160328_132154.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="218" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-CopoSkdDnIs/Vws98Yc4DaI/AAAAAAAAFIY/mkOaR1M2TsQEq9PD6QvLTf3VEsQG6M-kQ/s320/20160328_132154.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Collecting our certificates for completing the Coleridge Way</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br /></div>
Elliehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07671617922958041389noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2705526479207156981.post-34610800053451497012016-03-27T06:41:00.000+01:002016-04-18T22:54:03.936+01:00Walking the Coleridge Way - Day 3<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-QJPMH0oj3Q8/Vws3D91M8iI/AAAAAAAAFGo/anJxgUfj0aQlgeR_oZtS6Xy3q82cH8o1A/s1600/2016-03-28%2B08.02.04.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-QJPMH0oj3Q8/Vws3D91M8iI/AAAAAAAAFGo/anJxgUfj0aQlgeR_oZtS6Xy3q82cH8o1A/s320/2016-03-28%2B08.02.04.jpg" width="192" /></a>This morning when we came round the rain had eased a little and the tent was dry which makes a massive difference to the weight. Mick then discovered that the tent bag which we had spent twenty minutes looking for at Bicknoller was in fact in his pocket. He offered to carry the tent today and I took the poles.<br />
<br />
Attached to the petrol station in Bicknoller was a well stocked local store so we headed in there for a breakfast of coffee and warm bacon and sausage rolls. While we were standing in there munching on our food a fit looking man who I guessed was in his sixties came in. As soon as he saw us he came over and asked where we were walking. We explained that we were heading to Dunkery Beacon and on to Porlock and he smiled. "know it well, he said. "I used to live near then and I ran up Dunkery Beacon every day until two years ago when I moved here."<br />
'You look well on it," I observed.<br />
"Guess how old I am."<br />
"Um, sixty-five?"<br />
"I am eighty-four next birthday."<br />
Wow.<br />
<br />
After breakfast we shopped for provisions for the day, deciding on a bunch of bananas, a packet of currant buns, some nuts, a bar of chocolate and a couple of rounds of sandwiches. As Mick had the tent I volunteered to carry the food. We set off and had not gone far when I suddenly stopped and said, "Hey Mick, I did pack the food didn't I?"<br />
"Of course you did, I saw you put it in your rucksack."<br />
"OK, that's alright then. I can't remember doing that at all." It's weird how one can do things on auto-pilot and not be consciously aware you are doing them.<br />
<br />
We headed up the road to pick up the Coleridge Way again at the neighbouring village of Cutcombe. This is an ancient settlement, perched on the ridge above a steep valley. According to the History of the Hundred of Carhapmpton (1830): "Cutcombe is called a hill-country parish; the soil is generally a white rage, or as it is here called, a shellety soil, lying over a kind of bastard slate, not fit for roofing."<br />
The slate may not be up to much but it is a pleasant little place all the same with a pretty Thirteenth century church and best known for its thriving livestock market. Wheddon Cross is more recent - it grew up around the turnpike gate which was put here in the 1820s when the Rest and Be Thankful was built as a coaching inn for travellers.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JocuCJv6vjE/Vws3KMwvg-I/AAAAAAAAFGs/C3hqW9iG8Tsfzt7B1TyvWyG7H6-K7R5Ig/s1600/20160327_080742.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JocuCJv6vjE/Vws3KMwvg-I/AAAAAAAAFGs/C3hqW9iG8Tsfzt7B1TyvWyG7H6-K7R5Ig/s320/20160327_080742.jpg" width="192" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Packing the tent - Like trying to put<br />
a condom on an elephant...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
From Cutcombe we soon found ourselves walking along the drive of Raleigh Manor, a 'magnificent detached country residence' according to the sale particulars. (It was on the market for a cool £1.4 million last year.) The path plunged into the woods next to the manor before turning left up "Tom's Path". As so often is the case near country houses the woods were a mixture of indigenous and imported plants with rhodedendrons and bamboo competing with the deciduous trees and local flora. High in the trees we could hear a woodpecker thrumming away on the bark.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-aCPzn20If7I/Vws3DsPzamI/AAAAAAAAFGk/MAZxk46ChkU8jBiZ-nHDcF9_mlJFFRcMg/s1600/2016-03-28%2B07.56.18.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="192" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-aCPzn20If7I/Vws3DsPzamI/AAAAAAAAFGk/MAZxk46ChkU8jBiZ-nHDcF9_mlJFFRcMg/s320/2016-03-28%2B07.56.18.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lD_J8Sy-Ids/Vws3SYG2-WI/AAAAAAAAFG0/9qcxOU9RpjwbGDI21TaR3Ssyas91bUamA/s1600/20160327_091311.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lD_J8Sy-Ids/Vws3SYG2-WI/AAAAAAAAFG0/9qcxOU9RpjwbGDI21TaR3Ssyas91bUamA/s200/20160327_091311.jpg" width="120" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Unusual tree </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
After crossing a road the path tipped steeply down towards the stream winding through the bottom of the steep valley before crossing on stepping stones. Soon we were climbing steeply out the other side, puffing our way out of the valley and up towards the open moorland of Dunkery Hill where Exmoor ponies roamed through the heather. The path skirts the bottom of Dunkery beacon and as we had been up there just two weeks before we didn't bother with the detour to the top and headed on down the other side, following alongside the beautifully-named Spangate Grove to arrive at the bottom of a steep valley and facing an equally steep climb up the other side.<br />
<br />
It was a lovely spot with a stream bubbling along over mossy rocks and next to it an inviting soft tump of grass to sit down upon and rest awhile. By now we were pretty hungry - breakfast seemed a long time ago. "Time to demolish those hot-cross buns," said Mick rubbing his hands together. "i'm starving." I opened my rucksack to retrieve the goodies we had purchased from the shop and stared into the pack in disbelief. What is it?" said Mick. "Hurry up and pass me a bun and a banana."<br />
"It's not here."<br />
'What?"<br />
"I <i>told</i> you I didn't remember packing the stuff at the shop!" I exclaimed. "You said you saw me put it in my pack!"<br />
'I thought you did,' said Mick, perplexed. "I could have sworn I saw you do that."<br />
<br />
So we tackled the hill on empty stomachs, distracting ourselves with a conversation about unreliable witnesses.<br />
<br />
The route took us to Webber's Post where there was a large carpark and a couple of handy benches for a sit down. There was a fantastic view across the moors which would have been enjoyable had it not been for the very disconcerting huge black raincloud which was scudding its way in our direction. Three minutes later we, and everyone else in the vicinity were running for shelter from a sudden and very violent hailstorm which caused Mick to once again bemoan the fact he had left his gloves at home.<br />
<br />
A bit farther on Horner Mill was a fabulous place to stop for lunch - we had a superb ploughmans each and the visit was uneventful aside from one smashed cup - pretty good by our standards. From here it was not far to Porlock where the route took us through quaint backstreets to emerge via "The Drang" into the traffic on the high street next to the church.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-VvHfeU_a_DU/Vws3lNeF-JI/AAAAAAAAFHA/gGF5-KjfL4gqPqfHruOy6Ma9pZD5yiOsg/s1600/20160327_135531.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="192" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-VvHfeU_a_DU/Vws3lNeF-JI/AAAAAAAAFHA/gGF5-KjfL4gqPqfHruOy6Ma9pZD5yiOsg/s320/20160327_135531.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lunch was very welcome as we had not had our elevenses...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
It was allegedly a man from Porlock who disturbed Coleridge when he was partway through his poem Kubla Khan. Coleridge had been scribbling away in a drug-fuelled frenzy of inspiration. The interruption broke his train of thought and he was never able to finish the poem. Porlock is a nice village although slightly marred by the volume of traffic which trundles through it on the A39. We called into the grocery stores for more provisions - this time I made doubly sure I had packed them before leaving the shop.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-47PrtvOWL9I/Vws3RXOz94I/AAAAAAAAFGw/vyZXoVIxNl0c2_A4d4Lp4_GDp2MdVlZ7Q/s1600/20160327_092930.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="204" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-47PrtvOWL9I/Vws3RXOz94I/AAAAAAAAFGw/vyZXoVIxNl0c2_A4d4Lp4_GDp2MdVlZ7Q/s320/20160327_092930.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-XTRNOdYC9Rw/Vws3lKRLGrI/AAAAAAAAFG8/ft-dXI_N5EwNuqAp9qcEOA11Oejm6Si4w/s1600/20160327_110331.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-XTRNOdYC9Rw/Vws3lKRLGrI/AAAAAAAAFG8/ft-dXI_N5EwNuqAp9qcEOA11Oejm6Si4w/s320/20160327_110331.jpg" width="192" /></a></div>
<br />
There is a pleasant and popular path which goes through the woods down to Porlock Weir. From here the path takes on a new and serious intent - for the walker is now faced with the towering hulk of the infamous Porlock Hill. The next section was a serious climb up through Worthy Woods. It was raining now and underfoot was muddy and slippy, making progress slow going. It was a relief to meet the Toll Road which had followed us up through the wood and stick with it round the top of the hill and along the hills towards Lynmouth, following the lane which ran high above but parallel with the South West Coast Path.<br />
<br />
Eventually we parted company with the SWCP and we swung left up another hill and over the A39. The wind whistled through us again now were out of the shelter of the hills as we pressed on along the ridge. Then a glorious route down the shoulder of the hill to Oare. The path dropped away steeply either side which Mick, what with his vertigo, did not like at all, but he gamely stuck with it. The deciding factor was when I told him that if he refused to come down then there was no way we were going to make the pub.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Zy9aqKz0ZPo/Vws3kHyORlI/AAAAAAAAFG4/xp3oIyCIVQkxqsUqLEtM9ncrtZ7eqefOQ/s1600/20160327_165326.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="192" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Zy9aqKz0ZPo/Vws3kHyORlI/AAAAAAAAFG4/xp3oIyCIVQkxqsUqLEtM9ncrtZ7eqefOQ/s320/20160327_165326.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rainbow over Porlock</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
It was becoming dusky now and Storm Katie was beginning to show what she did next, which was to start dolloping rain on us without mercy. If Oare had had a pub we would have stopped there, but as it was we pressed on along the bank of the river to Brendon. When Mick saw that the path once more begain a steep climb up the side of the hill he finally rebelled. "I'm not going up there. Its pissing with rain, its getting dark and I want a pint." We had walked 20 odd miles, and had our fair share of weather so I suppose he had a point.<br />
<br />
We backtracked to a bridge which said no right of way, ignored it and crossed over to the road and trotted purposefully to the Stag Hunters Inn. It took ages to divest ourselves of our now filthy outer garments but once in the pub with our gear draped over radiators and a pint in front of us we relaxed. Shortly afterwards we were ushered into the lounge and we were very soon tucking into huge roast beef dinners and a second pint of Otter Ale.<br />
<br />
I mooted the idea of camping next to the village hall where there was a handy piece of grass. But the rain was coming down hard now and Mick rebelled for a second time. He stalked off to the bar and came back clutching another couple of pints and a key to one of the rooms upstairs. "We're booked into a twin room for the night," he said, sticking his chin out obstinately. "And if you don't like it, you can camp and I'll see you in the morning."<br />
<br />
Hmm. I thought about it for a nano-second and then said "Ok. Can I have the bath first?"<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-GJv3yKQ-jwk/Vws3rGk9xTI/AAAAAAAAFHE/aib7Ud_H9Z8M6-vLdYEdGOyoHUsXb8TCg/s1600/20160328_101055.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="192" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-GJv3yKQ-jwk/Vws3rGk9xTI/AAAAAAAAFHE/aib7Ud_H9Z8M6-vLdYEdGOyoHUsXb8TCg/s320/20160328_101055.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Stag Hunters Inn, Brendon</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<div>
<br /></div>
</div>
Elliehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07671617922958041389noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2705526479207156981.post-83443013757603449642016-03-26T06:28:00.000+00:002016-04-18T23:04:59.274+01:00Walking the Coleridge Way Day 2<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
We had planned to be up and gone before seven o'clock reasoning that anyone who was not in the pub last night would then be none the wiser but the plan didn't quite work. It was gone eight when we finally got up and began packing away our gear, moving gingerly so as not to disturb the hangover too much. Various locals came and went while we were packing, they evidently had an arrangement with the shop for collecting papers from a box outside when the shop was closed, but no-one seemed to mind our presence.<br />
<br />
The only hiccup was that we had somehow managed to lose our tent bag last night so I stuffed the wet tent (it had rained in the night) into a plastic carrier bag and stuffed it into my rucksack. Mick had the pegs and poles which I felt was the better deal.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Z4IcN3wGM60/Vwn2ZazUz8I/AAAAAAAAFFY/rOfGQT35Eo8JZpaN4Ql2SCSSA3wzax5eA/s1600/20160326_081524.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="192" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Z4IcN3wGM60/Vwn2ZazUz8I/AAAAAAAAFFY/rOfGQT35Eo8JZpaN4Ql2SCSSA3wzax5eA/s320/20160326_081524.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Camping behind the village shop</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Today's route began by crossing the flat vale between the hills of the Quantocks and Exmoor. Just before we crossed the railway line I felt a stirring in the pit of my stomach. Oh no! Must have been all that beer because suddenly I desperately needed a Number Two. I informed Mick of my predicament and we looked at the map. Nope, nothing for miles, no chance of a loo then.<br />
'You'll have to dig a hole and shit in the woods,' said Mick, handing me a roll of toilet paper and trying not to snigger. The operation took a while but after I had finished and covered the area with sticks and leaves and put the wet wipes in a little bag for disposal later (NEVER leave wet wipes behind if you are caught short in the countryside), I felt quite proud of my efforts and we went on our way.<br />
<br />
We headed through the quiet village of Sampford Brett, stopping for a few minutes at the
seat outside the church for some sustenance. But as soon as we stopped walking
we began to feel the cold and it wasn't long before we heaved our packs on to
our backs and started walking again to warm up.<br />
<o:p></o:p></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-uuz_o4sXlLs/Vwn2b1qQx7I/AAAAAAAAFFc/jfM_-3GP2JsgiTVFq3wrwKvxr0JNWWl7Q/s1600/20160326_093758.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="192" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-uuz_o4sXlLs/Vwn2b1qQx7I/AAAAAAAAFFc/jfM_-3GP2JsgiTVFq3wrwKvxr0JNWWl7Q/s320/20160326_093758.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
At Monksilver we took a quick peek in the ancient little church.where it is thought that Sir Francis Drake married his second wife Elizabeth Sydenham, daughter of Sir George Sydenham, the High Sheriff of Somerset, <a href="http://www.indrakeswake.co.uk/Society/Research/sydenham.htm">in 1583.</a><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VXCmnm8jUrI/Vwn2g-ANdxI/AAAAAAAAFFk/9wIEhGvtg3oIonI0LfUGpLhBzz3pl_MiQ/s1600/20160326_115159.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VXCmnm8jUrI/Vwn2g-ANdxI/AAAAAAAAFFk/9wIEhGvtg3oIonI0LfUGpLhBzz3pl_MiQ/s320/20160326_115159.jpg" width="192" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Flowers in Monksilver church</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
A little farther on we came to a small footbridge with a little pile of pennies on the post at each end. A man was crossing in the other direction, carefully holding a penny in his outstretched palm. As he reached the other end he put
the penny on the post on the other side. "just in case,' he said, as he walked on. A sign on the bridge explained that in ancient times it was " to cross considered prudent for travellers about to cross a wooden bridge to make an offering to the spirits of the trees which were cut down to make the timber."<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-49sP858-w1s/Vwn2gYRi4cI/AAAAAAAAFFg/BRs4k5bEpmgHQcLWLjSENNN5U0b6CGJkQ/s1600/20160326_095557.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-49sP858-w1s/Vwn2gYRi4cI/AAAAAAAAFFg/BRs4k5bEpmgHQcLWLjSENNN5U0b6CGJkQ/s320/20160326_095557.jpg" width="192" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
From here the route started to climb and we puffed and panted our way up Bird's Hill, feeling the weight of the packs on our backs. The weather had been deteriorating over the past couple of hours and it was now raining and blowing a hooley as we reached the top of the climb. Dropping down into the valley at Roadwater was a relief, giving us a bit of respite from the wind. I pulled out my hat and gloves and ask Mick why he wasn't doing the same.<br />
"I didn't bring gloves," he said, ruefully, "I thought I wouldn't need them."<br />
<br />
After Roadwater we climbed again, up a track through Langridge Wood. At the top there was a small fence and a sign for Langridge Cist. Mick wasn't keen on a detour but I reassured him it was only a few steps and he followed me over the grass to the cist - a Bronze age bural cairn. It was discovered by workers digging for road stone in 1820 and found to have a skeleton inside which was reinterred in a nearby churchyard. We stared at it for a while, standing in the rain with water dripping off our clothes, our pack and faces before carrying on, stomping through waterlogged, muddy fields with great clods clinging to our boots as we went. Every time we reached a stream Mick stood in the water to wash his boots which I considered pointless as within ten seconds they were covered in mud again.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cnAG4Khw-rI/Vwn2omnfvkI/AAAAAAAAFFo/RSsLGJOudrkOSYQSh2gl97lYSVTMgLK2A/s1600/20160326_144005.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="192" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cnAG4Khw-rI/Vwn2omnfvkI/AAAAAAAAFFo/RSsLGJOudrkOSYQSh2gl97lYSVTMgLK2A/s320/20160326_144005.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Langridge Cist</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ktWDSk0yF9I/Vwn2pF1xRuI/AAAAAAAAFFw/1xuZbg_IQukPfwtQ1-iotCaWC9JZgYBPw/s1600/20160326_171617.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="192" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ktWDSk0yF9I/Vwn2pF1xRuI/AAAAAAAAFFw/1xuZbg_IQukPfwtQ1-iotCaWC9JZgYBPw/s320/20160326_171617.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Classic Exmoor beech lane</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
By the time we reached Luxborough we were in dire need of some shelter and a hot drink so we removed our boots, opened the door of the Royal Oak and went in. There was no porch at this little Exmoor Inn to divest ourselves of our outer layers and the woman behind the bar laughed when she saw us standing there, completely drenched. 'I didn't think it was raining that hard!' she said.<br />
'It is up there,' I replied, pointing in the direction of the hills we had just traversed. We ordered coffee and sat on the settle by the door, trying not to drip on the other people in the pub. They all looked like they were settled in for the day, drinking pints and playing board games or reading the paper in the comfy chairs by the fire. We looked at them enviously, they had evidently correctly deduced that it was not a day for outdoor pursuits. Outside the rain started coming down harder.<br />
<br />
Mick capitulated first. 'Lets get a room,' he said. 'I've had enough.'<br />
I hesitated for a moment- reluctant to give in. But I was cold - and very wet. 'OK.'<br />
I went to the bar and asked if we could book in. The landlady shook her head regretfully. "I'm sorry, we're fully booked up. Easter weekend.' Bugger. She kindly lent us the phone (no mobile signal here!) and we called the Rest and Be Thankful Inn farther on at Wheddon Cross. Same answer. Ah well. We heaved ourselves up, thanked them and departed, leaving two large wet patches on the seat.<br />
'They don't care about us at all,' Mick said scornfully, as we plodded down the road.<br />
'What did you want her to do?' I asked. 'Give up her own bed so you had somewhere to sleep?'<br />
'Don't see why not,' he said grumpily.<br />
<br />
He cheered up as we made our way on to Wheddon Cross at the top of Exmoor. The weather was worse than ever but by now we had resigned ourselves to it which somehow made it almost enjoyable. We had Lype Hill in front of us as we headed through the fields where inquisitive sheep gathered behind us in search of food before suddenly charging off as if their life depended on it. 'They really are dim animals,' Mick observed. At the top of the hill my plastic cape made a terrific din rustling and flapping as the wind whipped round us. It was getting late now and we had eaten all our supplies. Wheddon Cross is slightly off the route but when we neared the village we detoured onto the road and headed down to the crossroads and the pub.<br />
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ZWkRPAmoVWw/Vwn2pLkAXyI/AAAAAAAAFFs/de8kbWF0GIkQGS0jE9DytPizhbm_SGEMw/s1600/20160326_174520.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="192" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ZWkRPAmoVWw/Vwn2pLkAXyI/AAAAAAAAFFs/de8kbWF0GIkQGS0jE9DytPizhbm_SGEMw/s320/20160326_174520.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">On Lype Hill</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-cbRjL5nAp_Y/Vwn2ssdvgCI/AAAAAAAAFF0/3qCwpqXB5FUMFpceyxy-6BbnhRROXagfg/s1600/20160326_174655.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="192" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-cbRjL5nAp_Y/Vwn2ssdvgCI/AAAAAAAAFF0/3qCwpqXB5FUMFpceyxy-6BbnhRROXagfg/s320/20160326_174655.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-kxjXTf0i76A/Vwn2waOrAdI/AAAAAAAAFF4/1VXqBTTeZ2MJHPVG1JeHnULJda19pgXKQ/s1600/20160326_174717.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="192" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-kxjXTf0i76A/Vwn2waOrAdI/AAAAAAAAFF4/1VXqBTTeZ2MJHPVG1JeHnULJda19pgXKQ/s320/20160326_174717.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
Inside it was packed with people enjoying an Easter Saturday evening meal. Thankfully there was a table for us and we ordered a three course meal and extra chips and extra bread and tucked in with gusto. A couple of hours later, installed by the wood burner and stoking my now distended stomach, I felt much better. Mick suggested I check the weather forecast on my phone. Logging on to the homepage I saw the message "sever weather warnings have been issued."<br />
"Oh no," I said. Look at this."<br />
"When is it for, tomorrow?"<br />
I clicked the link and checked. "Oh, it's for today. No wonder it was windy. We've been walking in Storm Katie." <br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-pZX4pKiCwWA/Vws5pLY3zkI/AAAAAAAAFHM/1nCIpEKoiLck3-FDpReT4BGMAzlz4323g/s1600/20160327_082503.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="192" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-pZX4pKiCwWA/Vws5pLY3zkI/AAAAAAAAFHM/1nCIpEKoiLck3-FDpReT4BGMAzlz4323g/s320/20160327_082503.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Rest and Be Thankful, Wheddon Cross</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
We camped surreptitiously this time, in the playing field next to the pub. although I can't imagine anyone would feel anything other than pity if they had seen us. But in fact it was not too bad. There was a shelter so we pitched there which protected us from the rain and there was a toilet block which was clean, well-stocked with soap and free to use (Take note Lostwithiel parish council who have just started charging 20 pence a visit!)<br />
<br />
Before going to sleep we had a debate about resetting the time as the clocks go forward onto British summer time this evening. For forty or so years I've been doing this and every single year I say the same thing - "Ok, so tonight the clocks go forward - does that mean it will be lighter in the mornings or darker?"<br />
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/--yJblQ1v6Ic/Vws1yFUWqBI/AAAAAAAAFGY/D66MSpk9czwu8IoDtIS4RGUHqRYNy96mg/s1600/20160327_075447.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="192" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/--yJblQ1v6Ic/Vws1yFUWqBI/AAAAAAAAFGY/D66MSpk9czwu8IoDtIS4RGUHqRYNy96mg/s320/20160327_075447.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Weathering the storm...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br /></div>
Elliehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07671617922958041389noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2705526479207156981.post-6325854857878944922016-03-25T07:39:00.000+00:002016-04-18T23:09:42.130+01:00Walking The Coleridge Way Day 1<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HdUHvv2pz_k/VwnymcaxbfI/AAAAAAAAFEo/LlRQtZSu2bs2tiHNebmhocafxUBWR2Rug/s1600/20160325_122343.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HdUHvv2pz_k/VwnymcaxbfI/AAAAAAAAFEo/LlRQtZSu2bs2tiHNebmhocafxUBWR2Rug/s320/20160325_122343.jpg" width="192" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Coleridge Way signpost</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Well, its been a while - over the winter I have been posting at The Other Place - my blog recording my research into the portraits of Jane Austen which you can find <a href="http://janeaustenportraits.blogspot.co.uk/">HERE</a>.<br />
<br />
But Easter is here and the sun is shining so time to dust off the walking poles, scrape the worst of the mud off the boots and get out into the countryside!<br />
<br />
Mick and I have decided to walk <a href="http://www.visit-exmoor.co.uk/coleridge-way/coleridge-way-home-page">The Coleridge Way</a> - a 50 (ish) mile walk through Somerset from Nether Stowey to Lynmouth. You can read a good description of the route on Encounter Walking Holiday's website <a href="http://encounterwalkingholidays.com/coleridge-way-walk-map-trail-exmoor-route">HERE</a>. The route was established about ten years ago and originally finished in Porlock but in 2014 it was extended to Lynmouth over the border in North Devon. 50 miles seemed a perfect length for a long weekend's walk. Plus the Daily Mirror <a href="http://www.mirror.co.uk/news/uk-news/uk-weather-britain-bask-easter-7552526">had announced</a> a couple of weeks ago hat Britain was going to bask in a heatwave so it seemed a great way to spend Easter. (If the Daily Express had run the headline I would have taken no notice - after all, the Express only has three headlines: Temperatures About To Soar, House Prices Are UP; and New Cure for Alzheimers) but this was in the lefty Mirror so had to be true!<br />
<br />
So last night Mick and I met at Lynmouth where we planned to leave a car before heading up to Nether Stowey to start the walk. I would have much preferred to have used public transport but as anyone who has tried to catch a bus near Lynmouth knows, unless you want to go to Barnstaple you will be standing at the bus stop for a very long time indeed. My journey up from Cornwall was fine - Mick on the other hand was stuck in the mass exodus of traffic leaving Bristol so arrived three pints later than me, despite having less miles to cover. <br />
<br />
We slept in the car in a quiet spot. I don't know why more people don't do this - in Japan car-camping is perfectly normal and you see people all the time overnighting in their cars, having picnics next to them and no-one thinks anything of it. Here you are considered weird or sad if you don't pay £80 or so for a bed and instead get the quilt out in the back of the motor. But as Mick remarked, we all wake up to the same morning, and £80 is a lot of beer money!<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HXdoPn49Gfs/VwgYeN4JZyI/AAAAAAAAFDY/CSWmsjWIP2UQgY6SupPN8wcxefBmdxAAg/s1600/20160325_104055.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HXdoPn49Gfs/VwgYeN4JZyI/AAAAAAAAFDY/CSWmsjWIP2UQgY6SupPN8wcxefBmdxAAg/s320/20160325_104055.jpg" width="186" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nether Stowey</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
So, this morning we drove to Nether Stowey and left the car in the little car park in the village. The route starts at <a href="http://www.nationaltrust.org.uk/coleridge-cottage">Coleridge Cottage</a>, where S T Coleridge lived for three years and where he composed some of his best known poems including the Rime of the Ancient Mariner and Kubla Khan. (There is a clue in the name of the pub opposite the cottage.)<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-INRlafIFG2c/VwgYebzJ5NI/AAAAAAAAFDc/FU2pS5Hnwa8qLWFD24kMF4amDHdy1eNGA/s1600/20160325_103437.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-INRlafIFG2c/VwgYebzJ5NI/AAAAAAAAFDc/FU2pS5Hnwa8qLWFD24kMF4amDHdy1eNGA/s320/20160325_103437.jpg" width="307" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Coleridge Cottage </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Its a pity the National Trust do not open the cottage until 11am as if you are walking the route it means a very late start, impractical if you have booked accommodation farther along the route. But we had our tent on our backs and no plan at all about where we were going to stay so we decided to get a nice cup of tea in the corner cafe and wait for them to open up. When we finally gained entry we were impressed with the cottage however. The NT has invested a lot of money and we had a very enjoyable couple of hours here. A member of staff pounced on Mick when we entered the little front room and handed him a dress coat. "Ooh you look like Coleridge" she said. "Put this on and you can be him!" Mick didn't need asking twice and soon was sitting at the desk composing a poem. "I'm struggling to find inspiration," he said. "Don't suppose you've got any opium have you?" Unsurprisingly no drugs were forthcoming so we decided it was time we got on our way.<br />
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-OtYInfmRt9Q/VwgYhKC2P-I/AAAAAAAAFDg/OIorEGvK2qQL0NbNM770_8tXF1xnEPBdg/s1600/20160325_112136.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-OtYInfmRt9Q/VwgYhKC2P-I/AAAAAAAAFDg/OIorEGvK2qQL0NbNM770_8tXF1xnEPBdg/s320/20160325_112136.jpg" width="192" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mick is S.T Coleridge</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ghPC6oAsQuI/VwgYjbL6nkI/AAAAAAAAFDk/h2QU6djIxlUPXIUTKBx8a3AidzMixH66g/s1600/20160325_112207.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="192" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ghPC6oAsQuI/VwgYjbL6nkI/AAAAAAAAFDk/h2QU6djIxlUPXIUTKBx8a3AidzMixH66g/s320/20160325_112207.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Inspiration is not forthcoming...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZgRzr4ubZfg/VwiyMBJR0UI/AAAAAAAAFD4/gEoM9t-togENwF5m-kuGKEY7r3W5wRQ0A/s1600/2016-03-28%2B07.47.22.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="153" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ZgRzr4ubZfg/VwiyMBJR0UI/AAAAAAAAFD4/gEoM9t-togENwF5m-kuGKEY7r3W5wRQ0A/s320/2016-03-28%2B07.47.22.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
On leaving the cottage we walked through the picturesque village and up the hill. At the stop we stopped to look at Stowey Castle - just a mound now to show where an 11th century motte and bailey castle had once been. The castle was destroyed in the fifteenth century after the locals got a bit uppity with the king, backing the pretender Perkin Warbeck's <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Second_Cornish_Uprising_of_1497">Second Cornish Uprising</a>, for which the local lord of the manor Lord Audley lost his head. (I mean <i>literally</i> lost his head; he was executed on the orders of Henry V11 in 1497.) From the castle we were treated to fantastic views across Somerset to the coast and over to Wales. A wooden cross had been erected here for Easter which was visible for miles.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-gIWvuoazSGw/VwiyrHqPa5I/AAAAAAAAFEE/FECsBlbjeAkW3lTnYK3plSKY9d3fMPpkw/s1600/20160325_121216.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="192" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-gIWvuoazSGw/VwiyrHqPa5I/AAAAAAAAFEE/FECsBlbjeAkW3lTnYK3plSKY9d3fMPpkw/s320/20160325_121216.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
The first part of the route took us through rolling Somerset countryside past <a href="http://www.visit-exmoor.co.uk/coleridge-way/point-of-interest/walfords-gibbet">Walfords Gibbet </a>where wife murderer John Walford was hung with his body left hanging in a cage until it rotted as a deterrent to other would-be murders. He had left his wife's body in nearby woodland at a place still known as Dead Woman's Ditch.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-7qOQO3N9bOg/VwnyEwbkz-I/AAAAAAAAFEc/qB_riaXgyuIBe4dIDkbQUzOYcYUd564HQ/s1600/20160325_122120.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="192" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-7qOQO3N9bOg/VwnyEwbkz-I/AAAAAAAAFEc/qB_riaXgyuIBe4dIDkbQUzOYcYUd564HQ/s320/20160325_122120.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cottage on the Coleridge Way</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Mick said he had had enough of all this death and violence for one day so we changed the subject and were so merrily chattering away that we missed a turning and walked half a mile up the road by mistake. Reluctant to retrace our steps, instead we followed a path which took us up to the top of Dowsborough Hillfort. It was a serendipitous mistake as had we followed the correct path which skirts the bottom of the hill we probably wouldn't have bothered. As it was, we wandered through the fort, and were treated to another panoramic viewpoint, which must have been jolly useful for iron age folk to check what the marauding neighbours were up to and made a great spot to stop for a bit of lunch.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-5gi5xpX4Kb4/VwnykiygW8I/AAAAAAAAFEg/6_XKoA-bFBAmm7X6Dgx34niVWPXr4IsjA/s1600/20160325_132227.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="192" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-5gi5xpX4Kb4/VwnykiygW8I/AAAAAAAAFEg/6_XKoA-bFBAmm7X6Dgx34niVWPXr4IsjA/s320/20160325_132227.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View from Dowsborough Hillfort</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-zkh_SQiczNk/Vwnyl8_Z-xI/AAAAAAAAFEk/FhH4sIJpNa05BH7F6f3_EnO5sY3YWLoGg/s1600/20160325_133348.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="192" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-zkh_SQiczNk/Vwnyl8_Z-xI/AAAAAAAAFEk/FhH4sIJpNa05BH7F6f3_EnO5sY3YWLoGg/s320/20160325_133348.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lunch spot on the hillfort</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vYh2lRpSDrc/Vwnyqcbk1uI/AAAAAAAAFEw/88v0PkyS_5kH_f6-lEojNiXWDmi9gW2lw/s1600/20160325_135123.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="192" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vYh2lRpSDrc/Vwnyqcbk1uI/AAAAAAAAFEw/88v0PkyS_5kH_f6-lEojNiXWDmi9gW2lw/s320/20160325_135123.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cairn marking highest point of the route</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
The walking was easy, along ancient lanes and through sleepy villages with quaint thatched cottages and squat little churches. At Holford we passed a square building with a plaque on the wall. This was Holford dog pound which was used to house stray dogs to stop them unsettling the hunting dogs owned by the local squire. It was built following an unpleasant incident when a huntsman was savaged by his own dogs when he went out to investigate what had spooked them.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-CQxUfJIPF4M/VwnyxlpXVHI/AAAAAAAAFE4/MxpA03JsxSwsMgqjuOJ9FKJC7GdPsQgsA/s1600/20160325_142955.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="192" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-CQxUfJIPF4M/VwnyxlpXVHI/AAAAAAAAFE4/MxpA03JsxSwsMgqjuOJ9FKJC7GdPsQgsA/s320/20160325_142955.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-VWl_et1_9HM/Vwnyr3ITURI/AAAAAAAAFE0/7Tjy-BTlw9UPHlHu7jQp3P37xGfdFrIIA/s1600/20160325_143010.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="192" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-VWl_et1_9HM/Vwnyr3ITURI/AAAAAAAAFE0/7Tjy-BTlw9UPHlHu7jQp3P37xGfdFrIIA/s320/20160325_143010.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dog pound at Hollford</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Just after here the path becomes a long sweeping drive past Alfoxton House which was the home of the Wordsworths for a year from 1797 until 1798. For a while it was run as a hotel and presumably there was once as a youth hostel here too as we noticed an old YHA sign on a tree, but is now privately owned. What a pity, its a great location for a hostel.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-TM_CMjbxbz4/Vwny1qknkyI/AAAAAAAAFFA/J1kRGdI1Mc844414lHs5qfuvvrbvAte1Q/s1600/20160325_144410.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="192" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-TM_CMjbxbz4/Vwny1qknkyI/AAAAAAAAFFA/J1kRGdI1Mc844414lHs5qfuvvrbvAte1Q/s320/20160325_144410.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Alfoxton House</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
We were skirting the edge of the Quantocks now, the path meandering at times close to the A39 before wandering off again. We stopped and talked for a while to a young couple with a baby who wanted to know about our walk. We should do that one day, the chap enthused! His partner look less convinced. As she was the one carrying the baby in a papoose perhaps this was not so surprising.<br />
<br />
Just before Bicknoller the path descended steeply through the woodland until a lane took as into the centre of the village. It was late afternoon now and we decided to call it a day. We headed for the Bicknoller Inn and had a brief moment of panic when we discovered that the pub was closed before we realised that a) it was closed for the afternoon only and re-opened at 6 o'clock and b) it was now five to six. Five minutes later we were at the bar ordering a pint of <a href="http://palmersbrewery.com/ales/cask-ale/dorset-gold/">Palmer's Dorset Gold</a> which was superb. Five hours later we were still at the bar ordering pints of Palmer's Dorset Gold which was going down exceedingly well.<br />
<br />
That night in the Bicknoller Inn was one of the best nights out I've had in a long time. After offering to swap tables with a bigger group we got chatting to them and to the group of farmers sitting at the bar and soon we were all roaring with laughter and having a fine old time. We had no idea where we were going to sleep that night and asked the locals for advice. After some debate during which one farmer offering us a field which we gratefully accepted until we realised his farm was 10 miles on towards Taunton, somebody suggested the field behind the village shop. We were a little doubtful at first but were reassured that no-body would mind.<br />
<br />
Putting the tent up in the dark after copious amounts of beer was a bit of a challenge but eventually we managed it and soon slipped into a booze-fuelled stupor.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-xE17ZA0z5Pc/Vwny0meZXeI/AAAAAAAAFE8/Br0-YNPktZkjxsb6uSnnwZ7z9dvhTCGfw/s1600/20160325_230002.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="192" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-xE17ZA0z5Pc/Vwny0meZXeI/AAAAAAAAFE8/Br0-YNPktZkjxsb6uSnnwZ7z9dvhTCGfw/s320/20160325_230002.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A fine night in the Bicknoller Arms</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-iqWu1_qyiD8/Vwny25saWyI/AAAAAAAAFFE/6EBBRGP-uAkuhmjpFZnblcW2d5gJ9FilQ/s1600/20160325_230112.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="192" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-iqWu1_qyiD8/Vwny25saWyI/AAAAAAAAFFE/6EBBRGP-uAkuhmjpFZnblcW2d5gJ9FilQ/s320/20160325_230112.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A fine choice of ale</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br /></div>
Elliehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07671617922958041389noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2705526479207156981.post-34947137243168311712015-08-01T10:23:00.000+01:002015-08-30T08:46:34.452+01:00Marazion to Porthleven<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TYrJZ4HBZZI/VdeVW5AxmgI/AAAAAAAAEmA/2IpFpwUY9YE/s1600/DSCN0500.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TYrJZ4HBZZI/VdeVW5AxmgI/AAAAAAAAEmA/2IpFpwUY9YE/s320/DSCN0500.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View of St Michael's Mount looking back</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
After leaving Marazion the path soon chips away from the road as it trails round Mount's Bay at the top of the cliffs, and all the while I am treated to different views of St Michael's Mount as I head around the bay. At Perranuthnoe I take a short detour up to the little church, dedicated to St Piran, the patron saint of Cornwall. (St Piran was an Irishman who, having been chucked out of his homeland, washed up at Perranporth - hence the name - where his first converts were said to be a fox, a badger and a boar. I don't know if you've been to Perranporth but last time I went, all three were in short supply so the place must have changed a bit. You can read more about <a href="http://stpiran.org/st-piran/">St Piran</a> here.) Anyway, back to Perranuthnoe - the church seems keen on collecting patron saints - in 1856 it was also dedicated to St Nicholas. He was later apparently dropped in favour of St Michael. Still, its a beautiful little place, with a Norman font and beautiful arched roof. Outside, the clock on the tower was given in memory of Eliza Trevelyan in 1913; the Trevelyans of Marhamchurch being major benefactors of the church, and like most benefactors, clearly they wanted to be remembered as such.
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JHqFn9f_YyQ/VdeYRVeggeI/AAAAAAAAEmQ/i9dverC1rH0/s1600/DSCN0513.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JHqFn9f_YyQ/VdeYRVeggeI/AAAAAAAAEmQ/i9dverC1rH0/s320/DSCN0513.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Font at St Pirans</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-8RNiaKr_ZAo/VdeYRsuuVMI/AAAAAAAAEmU/NFJqCus7HMc/s1600/DSCN0514.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-8RNiaKr_ZAo/VdeYRsuuVMI/AAAAAAAAEmU/NFJqCus7HMc/s320/DSCN0514.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nave of St Piran's</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sEHePPBwoXk/VdeaFCr7F3I/AAAAAAAAEms/iRxaH8ExpwA/s1600/DSCN0516.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sEHePPBwoXk/VdeaFCr7F3I/AAAAAAAAEms/iRxaH8ExpwA/s320/DSCN0516.JPG" style="cursor: move;" width="240" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ELRwNwwrI1Y/VdeaOQAu9oI/AAAAAAAAEm8/SDiIpNjAKrs/s1600/DSCN0528.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ELRwNwwrI1Y/VdeaOQAu9oI/AAAAAAAAEm8/SDiIpNjAKrs/s320/DSCN0528.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cudden Point</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
About a mile and a half farther on, the Coast Path makes its way out to the narrow finger of Cudden Point. By now the grey clouds have scudded away and are replaced by warm sunshine and an almost cloudless sky. I walk along to the far end of the point, and take my last view of Mounts Bay before rounding the corner and heading towards the evocative Prussia Cove, home of the (in)famous pirate John Carter, the self-styled 'King of Prussia.'<br />
<br />
John Carter and his brothers Harry and Charles, the 'Cove Boys' ran a profitable smuggling business from here at the end of the eighteenth century. Unusually, Harry Carter left a written record of their exploits in the form of a memoir, <a href="http://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/40008">Autobiography of a Cornish Smuggler</a>. 'I think I might have been about 25 when I went into a small sloop…with two men beside myself, asmuggling where I had very great success.' Harry goes on to say he disliked swearing and when he graduated to his own 50 ton cutter with ten men on board, he made a rule that there would be no swearing. Anyone found swearing would be 'poneshed'.<br />
<br />
What I found fascinating in his memoir is the matter-of-fact way in which he discusses smuggling; it is clear that tax avoidance was something that was certainly not frowned upon by the local population. And according to legend, and very probably true, there was a level of honesty amongst the Carter gang. One story tells how John Carter broke into the Penzance Custom HOuse to rescue some confiscated tea. When the customs officials arrived the next day they allegedly said that John Carter had been there, and we know it because he has not taken anything which was not his own!<br />
<br />
So if you've ever wondered how the <a href="http://www.kingofprussiafowey.co.uk/">King of Prussia</a> pub in Fowey got it's name - now you know!<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-VbqJ8up6pBI/Vdg8KbccZVI/AAAAAAAAEpA/7Sluz_GFU40/s1600/DSCN0541.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-VbqJ8up6pBI/Vdg8KbccZVI/AAAAAAAAEpA/7Sluz_GFU40/s320/DSCN0541.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Winch at Bessie's Cove</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
The area known as Prussia Cove in fact encompasses four small coves - Piskies, Bessy's, King's and Coule's - four delightful and secluded little inlets where a handful of holidaymakers are sunbathing on the small beaches or messing about in the clear, turquoise water. Beyond is the wide expanse of Kenneggy Sands. Access to the beach is by way of metal ladders -which explains why the beach was pretty much deserted. The next beach along, Praa sands is much easier to access. By now I am roasting hot and I'm unable to resist changing into my swimsuit and going in for a dip. The water is FREEEZING. Aaargh. But now I've made the effort to get changed (something of a palaver on a crowded beach) so I'm determined to stay in the water for at least twenty minutes to make it worthwhile. Afterwards, and nicely cooled down, it's time for a lovely cup of tea in the beach cafe.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-A32AVhlnhQg/VdeaHNW-7KI/AAAAAAAAEm0/a3xZA42WafQ/s1600/DSCN0536.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-A32AVhlnhQg/VdeaHNW-7KI/AAAAAAAAEm0/a3xZA42WafQ/s320/DSCN0536.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Piskies Cove</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-03IhElyUJRM/Vdeahc0GbMI/AAAAAAAAEnk/wKxh5LUpavw/s1600/DSCN0542.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-03IhElyUJRM/Vdeahc0GbMI/AAAAAAAAEnk/wKxh5LUpavw/s320/DSCN0542.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Boat at Bessies Cove</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-0Dkot7LQAek/Vdg8NM8ZoJI/AAAAAAAAEpI/-JgaeQ6UdW8/s1600/DSCN0543.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-0Dkot7LQAek/Vdg8NM8ZoJI/AAAAAAAAEpI/-JgaeQ6UdW8/s320/DSCN0543.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cart tracks in the rocks at King's Cove</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ezX4XOGilJg/VdeacDSsExI/AAAAAAAAEnU/SR93vMRNkwg/s1600/DSCN0556.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ezX4XOGilJg/VdeacDSsExI/AAAAAAAAEnU/SR93vMRNkwg/s320/DSCN0556.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tea on the beach! </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-qTqlsyuJzDg/VdeaS11MJMI/AAAAAAAAEnE/Gdd7JkcSa9E/s1600/DSCN0551.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-qTqlsyuJzDg/VdeaS11MJMI/AAAAAAAAEnE/Gdd7JkcSa9E/s320/DSCN0551.JPG" width="320" /></a>The weather is beautiful and sunny and it is glorious on the path, with banks of heather turning purple and banks of wild flowers - bright yellow birds foot trefoil, pink sea thrift and beautiful violet-blue sheeps bit. There are plenty of butterflies too - especially commas and peacocks - which periodically flutter up from the path in front of me only to land again, right back on the path a yard farther along. They repeat this four or five times before finally getting the message and landing <i>behind</i> me and out of the way of my clunking boots.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/--ShaS-I4NEY/Vdeag0UM01I/AAAAAAAAEnc/I8yV8IPs3ck/s1600/DSCN0567.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/--ShaS-I4NEY/Vdeag0UM01I/AAAAAAAAEnc/I8yV8IPs3ck/s320/DSCN0567.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wheal Prosper</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Just after Rinsey head is Wheal Prosper, a mine which failed to live up to its optimistic name. Opened in 1860, it operated for just six years producing mainly tin. A little way on, at Trewavas Head are the remains of a rather more successful copper mine, producing 17.5k tons of copper in its working life. Perched on the edge of the cliff, the buildings are an evocative reminder of Cornwall's industrial past, when the region was a world leader in tin and copper production and technology.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-xoRn0i0LsCs/Vdeav3uSyII/AAAAAAAAEoA/8EUdi7g4hxs/s1600/DSCN0582.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-xoRn0i0LsCs/Vdeav3uSyII/AAAAAAAAEoA/8EUdi7g4hxs/s320/DSCN0582.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looking at the Lizard </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ndXxk4WSRTQ/VdeaxBbcZ5I/AAAAAAAAEoI/JBf2BtUj8gg/s1600/DSCN0588.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ndXxk4WSRTQ/VdeaxBbcZ5I/AAAAAAAAEoI/JBf2BtUj8gg/s320/DSCN0588.JPG" width="320" /></a><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-K9-YXZ5ceb0/VdeauN1Ky_I/AAAAAAAAEn4/xLV5PRJjRE4/s1600/DSCN0592.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-K9-YXZ5ceb0/VdeauN1Ky_I/AAAAAAAAEn4/xLV5PRJjRE4/s320/DSCN0592.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Stonechat</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-acYbGi4meWY/VdealtCHeKI/AAAAAAAAEnw/gBVWQV9ymlY/s1600/DSCN0573.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-acYbGi4meWY/VdealtCHeKI/AAAAAAAAEnw/gBVWQV9ymlY/s320/DSCN0573.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Trewavas Head - spooky...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-tXAZ4iNC5Wc/Vdea9xstZ6I/AAAAAAAAEog/BOgYYIGVgUw/s1600/DSCN0598.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-tXAZ4iNC5Wc/Vdea9xstZ6I/AAAAAAAAEog/BOgYYIGVgUw/s320/DSCN0598.JPG" width="240" /></a>Approaching Pothleven there is a reminder of a different local industry - fishing. A granite cross on a white plinth stands on the headland overlooking the churning sea, a memorial to the many mariners and fishermen who lost their lives in the waters near these shores in countless shipwrecks and accidents at sea. One of the most poignant was the loss of the "Energetic. The small fishing boat put to sea on 25 June 1948; on board were six members of the same Porthleven family, the Richards and their friend Roy Mewton who had gone along for a pleasure trip. The boat was caught in thick fog and run over by the huge 7000 ton Chrysanthy Star. Five of the six Richards brothers drowned. Roy Mewton was picked up by the Chrysanthy Star but died on board. Only one brother, Ralph Richards, survived. You can read his account of that fateful night <a href="http://porthlevengigclub.weebly.com/about-pilot-gigs.html">here</a>.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VKN3QYIriIA/Vdea7RVsvaI/AAAAAAAAEoY/mCb-v_pYofk/s1600/DSCN0600.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="150" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VKN3QYIriIA/Vdea7RVsvaI/AAAAAAAAEoY/mCb-v_pYofk/s200/DSCN0600.JPG" width="200" /></a>At Pothleven I walk down the hill into the centre of town and head inland in search of a campsite marked on my map. sure enough I had not gone far when I came to the entrance - and an added bonus! - there is a Freehouse on the Campsite run by the famous brewpub in Helston, <a href="http://www.spingoales.com/">The Blue Anchor</a>. So I treat myself to a pint of Spingo Flora Daze. A second bonus is that the walls of the pub are covered with fascinating black and white photographs of Porthleven, of ships which have come to grief here, mighty storms and local families - including photographs of the Richards family. It feels strange staring at the images of the Richards brothers as boys - oblivious of the fateful event to come. The photographs are part of a <a href="http://www.falmouthpacket.co.uk/news/13616475.Old_Porthleven_on_view_for_a_new_generation/">permanent exhibition </a>which opened this month - highly recommended!<br />
<br />
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4H7oCM6h4rI/VdrBxOMoxqI/AAAAAAAAEpY/EpRVCpFIQ2Y/s1600/Rebel_Gold-1429699302.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="158" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4H7oCM6h4rI/VdrBxOMoxqI/AAAAAAAAEpY/EpRVCpFIQ2Y/s200/Rebel_Gold-1429699302.png" width="200" /></a>After setting up my little tent I head back down to the harbour and settle myself in the garden of the Ship Inn, a fine pub, where I enjoy a pint of Rebel Gold from Cornish Brewery <a href="http://www.rebelbrewing.co.uk/">Rebel Brewing</a>. As I was in Porthleven I felt duty bound to also quaff a pint of Porthleven from <a href="http://www.skinnersbrewery.com/beers.php?id=30&t=ft_ales&details=">Skinner's Brewery </a> - not too much of a hardship as it is a fine pint -before turning in for the night.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vdpYKSAbHxQ/VdrBxZmrYOI/AAAAAAAAEpc/IT1D5uO3k7E/s1600/20150121164208_PORTHLEVEN%2BOUTLINES%2BLR.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vdpYKSAbHxQ/VdrBxZmrYOI/AAAAAAAAEpc/IT1D5uO3k7E/s200/20150121164208_PORTHLEVEN%2BOUTLINES%2BLR.jpg" width="163" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-BzbkK2WohLk/Vdea5oaNaDI/AAAAAAAAEoQ/aYhoAzZAe1k/s1600/DSCN0606.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-BzbkK2WohLk/Vdea5oaNaDI/AAAAAAAAEoQ/aYhoAzZAe1k/s320/DSCN0606.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Porthleven</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-s5k2NilS7-0/Vdea-8zpybI/AAAAAAAAEoo/XoKq9g7mXOo/s1600/DSCN0627.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-s5k2NilS7-0/Vdea-8zpybI/AAAAAAAAEoo/XoKq9g7mXOo/s320/DSCN0627.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Ship Inn</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
Distance walked 11 miles.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br /></div>
Elliehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07671617922958041389noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2705526479207156981.post-89165255603359061092015-07-31T13:29:00.000+01:002015-08-21T23:09:27.340+01:00Penzance to Marazion<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
Well it's been a long time coming. The next section of the South West Coast Path I mean. It's been two years since I reached Penzance on the South West Coast Path. Somehow the last 24 months have slipped by what with walking round Japan and moving to Edinburgh (and back) and wot-not.<br />
<br />
But here I am on a Friday evening heading down to Penzance by train. I'm at the station at Lostwithiel and the train is late. Very late. Checking my new smartfone I learn that tragically a man had been killed that afternoon at Collumption. Suddenly I don't feel like moaning that the train is late, after all, at least I'm still here. I sit patiently and eventually it arrives, packed out and standing room only and it is gone half-seven in the evening when I leave Penzance station and set off along the coast towards Marazion.<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-qk3IUshsp5o/VcGovBT3NLI/AAAAAAAAEjY/HGW4jQH--e8/s1600/DSCN0468.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-qk3IUshsp5o/VcGovBT3NLI/AAAAAAAAEjY/HGW4jQH--e8/s200/DSCN0468.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Leaving Penzance on the Coath Path</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
This section of the coast path is not that interesting unless you are a trainspotter, as it trundles between sea and railway line. But as I walk around the curve of the bay, the vista opens out and I'm suddenly glad I didn't skip this section and get the bus.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-S_N5863SSzs/VcGpMW4_x5I/AAAAAAAAEkI/u4dKhwetkVs/s1600/DSCN0486.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-S_N5863SSzs/VcGpMW4_x5I/AAAAAAAAEkI/u4dKhwetkVs/s320/DSCN0486.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">St Michael's Mount</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Approaching Marazion the dramatic isle of St Michael's Mount, with its castle perched atop the rock, draws the eye. The tide was in, no sign of the causeway to the island, and the sea is still. Between the shore and the island a group of brightly coloured canoes paddle in the shallows, bright lines of red, orange and yellow gently bobbing about in the calm blue sea. The shadows are lengthening as I join the road into the village. To my left was <a href="http://www.rspb.org.uk/discoverandenjoynature/seenature/reserves/guide/m/marazionmarsh/">Marazion Marsh</a> and I take the chance to duck through a gate and walk along the springy grass of the path through the reserve rather than the unforgiving tarmac of the road. It's that time in the evening when creatures come out to play and the path is strewn with rabbits frolicking. It amuses me how some bolt for cover straightaway while others stand their ground until the very last minute before disappearing into the bushes. I'm reminded of Watership Down - which one is Hazel and which is Fiver? I wonder. Anyway, like most creatures, they are not stupid enough to hang around when an Upright is on the loose.<br />
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-bZ4MMM8_qho/VcGo6aYCUjI/AAAAAAAAEjg/bKbzpiGSaZs/s1600/DSCN0479.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-bZ4MMM8_qho/VcGo6aYCUjI/AAAAAAAAEjg/bKbzpiGSaZs/s320/DSCN0479.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Marazion Marsh</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Hhy1LkV3IXA/VcGpJ-RGcVI/AAAAAAAAEj4/tsfxj7kykhA/s320/DSCN0482.JPG" width="240" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rabbits on the path</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Anyway, no idea where I'm going to sleep but then I pass a field with a few tents in. And I espy a portaloo. This looks promising. So I wander in and ask a family what the set up is. She explains that there is a sailing competition in Marazion and a local farmer has kindly allowed competitors to camp in his field. I ask whether she thinks he would mind if I camped too and she doesn't know but kindly looks up his number. The farmer has no problem with this so I set up camp. An hour later he turns up, collects six quid and we have a chat about the coast path etc. Both sides are happy with the transaction. Later I walk along to the village, drink a pricey pint of <a href="https://www.staustellbrewery.co.uk/proper-job">Proper Job</a> in the King's Arms before heading back to my little tent for the night.<br />
<br />
The next morning rain is hammering on the tent. Quandary. Do I get up and pack up in the rain or stay in bed awhile? Not much of a quandary actually. I pick up my book, snuggle deeper into my sleeping bag and start to read. Sure enough an hour later the rain has stopped and the sun is trying to put in a feeble appearance over in the east. Now it's time to get up and pack up. It's still only nine o'clock by the time I leave the field and buy a coffee in the tea-hut in the carpark opposite.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-PSeBeeGfZzk/VcGpSuFJKoI/AAAAAAAAEkQ/PKWJEWzixVA/s1600/DSCN0492.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-PSeBeeGfZzk/VcGpSuFJKoI/AAAAAAAAEkQ/PKWJEWzixVA/s320/DSCN0492.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Causeway to St Michael's Mount</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<a href="http://www.stmichaelsmount.co.uk/">St Michael's Mount</a> does not open on Saturdays but it makes for a pleasing view while I drink my coffee on the bench opposite. The causeway is just beginning to be revealed by the morning's receding tide and on the way through the village I wander partway along it's length. The island is the family seat of the St Aubyn family who live in the house on the island. They are descended from a Norman family who, as we all know, invaded England in the eleventh century. In the nineteenth century John St Aubyn was made Lord Levan for political services to the Liberal Party.The island was given to the National Trust in the nineteen-fifties, although the family retained a 999 year lease to remain living on the Island. It is apparently at their request that the Mount is closed on Saturdays. I shall have to come back another day.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-tvmA3cSKsJM/VcGpbZHw0QI/AAAAAAAAEko/fB6KHt3H2XA/s1600/DSCN0495.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-tvmA3cSKsJM/VcGpbZHw0QI/AAAAAAAAEko/fB6KHt3H2XA/s320/DSCN0495.JPG" width="320" /></a>Marazion is a pretty little village which straggles up the hill from the shore. A small square forms the hub, where aside from the King's Arms there is a chemist, a newsagent and a baker which between them seem to sell pretty much anything you could possibly require for a walk along the Cornish Coast Path. I purchase batteries for my headlight, a comb, some wet wipes (chemist), a lightweight rain cape for covering my backpack and a bar of chocolate (newsagent) and an enormous cheese and onion pasty (baker). It is still a bit mizzly and it doesn't occur to me to buy suntan lotion which later turns out to have been something of an oversight. After stuffing my wares into the top of my rucksack I haul it onto my back and plod up the narrow road lined with squat whitewashed stone cottages, which climbs out of Marazion towards the west.<br />
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-sAzhxNVLicY/VcGpbTJQE3I/AAAAAAAAEks/1UgwV6rwX14/s1600/DSCN0498.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-sAzhxNVLicY/VcGpbTJQE3I/AAAAAAAAEks/1UgwV6rwX14/s320/DSCN0498.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Not all traffic in Marazion is horseless carriage</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sKTpIOhwcNg/VcGpec5gAWI/AAAAAAAAEk4/py_D6OwP-C4/s1600/DSCN0499.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sKTpIOhwcNg/VcGpec5gAWI/AAAAAAAAEk4/py_D6OwP-C4/s320/DSCN0499.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A Very Useful Item - raincover, mat, pillow, and good for changing under on crowded beaches</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Miles walked: 4<br />
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
<br /></div>
Elliehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07671617922958041389noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2705526479207156981.post-41746714774326979392014-07-04T23:55:00.000+01:002014-07-06T23:24:35.033+01:00Some Vital Statistics<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-_aXd90IIrK4/U7nK_n2gKoI/AAAAAAAAEdw/7254-G-nP34/s1600/DSCN8658.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-_aXd90IIrK4/U7nK_n2gKoI/AAAAAAAAEdw/7254-G-nP34/s1600/DSCN8658.jpg" height="257" width="320" /></a>If you've been reading about our walk on Shikoku then you might be interested in some stats from the trip. Or then again you might not. In which case please feel free to leave now. But you never know, maybe you're thinking of walking the pilgrimage yourself. If so, I bet the first question is - how much did it cost us?</div>
<br />
So here it is:<br />
<br />
<b>Cost of trip for two of us:</b><br />
<b></b><br />
<b></b>
Flights: £761 each (KLM from Bristol via Amsterdam to Osaka)<br />
<br />
Vaccinations: £120 each for tick-borne encephalitis, 2 shots.<br />
We were also offered Japanese encephalitis but didn't have this as despite the name it is now rare in Japan itself plus we were outside the main risk period (end of the summer).<br />
<br />
JR Rail Pass 2 weeks £264. Brilliant value for foreigners travelling around Japan (it can only be bought by non-residents). You can use most trains in Japan to travel including most of the Shinkansen (high speed) trains.<br />
<br />
Our total spend for the first eleven weeks in Japan (i.e. up until we started our Japan rail pass) was 230,000 yen (£1400 each or less than £20 per day). That was for everything- food, accommodation when we weren't camping, occasional booze up, travel from Osaka up to Koyasan and then on to Shikoku, onsen (hot baths), laundry, temple stamps , pilgrim attire and sundries. And we ate well and plentifully on that budget, with plenty of fish, meat, tempura and lots and lots of udon. Not much more expensive than eleven weeks at home. Not if home is the UK at any rate. Of course you could reduce the cost by eating frugally (a bag of noodles costs about 50 yen) or travel more luxuriously and stay in accommodation every night if money is no object.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-68Tt71RKKwA/U7cg2Al4XZI/AAAAAAAAEao/hjqGQn0Hn9w/s1600/DSCN7686.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-68Tt71RKKwA/U7cg2Al4XZI/AAAAAAAAEao/hjqGQn0Hn9w/s1600/DSCN7686.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Supermarkets often reduce food at the end of the day </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<b>Here's the lowdown on accommodation:</b><br />
<br />
We kept the cost of the trip down by camping out. A lot. Of the 73 nights we spent on Shikoku, we camped for 53 of them. Only 2 of those 53 were on a paying campsite, the rest were free. In addition we spent a further 6 nights in free accommodation of one sort or another. The other 14 nights were in hotels or guesthouses.<br />
<br />
It is very easy to camp on the pilgrimage route, either in 'henro huts' provided for that purpose or in parks, outside michi-no-eki (road stations) or other open spaces. Pitch late, leave early and leave no trace and there should be no problems. Most locals seemed more than happy to have us camp nearby. If we were in any doubt we would ask a local whether camping was ok and it was very rarely a problem. We were told camping in the grounds of shrines was ok (but NOT temples) and we did this a couple of times but only if a local or a Japanese henro said it was ok to do so.<br />
<br />
We used our guidebook to find cheapish hotels en route if we were desperate for a room/bed/shower/wifi etc. which worked fine except for one slight cock-up in Uwajima when the price we were given for two nights stay turned our to be the price <i>per night</i> so it worked out a little more expensive than we thought.<br />
<br />
<b>Distance</b><br />
Our 'official' distance was 1230 kilometres, however there were also unrecorded kilometres looking for a place to camp, walking to the shops etc etc so we reckon our total distance was around 1300-1350 kilometres which worked out to an average of about 20 kilometres a day. On good days we would manage 30km but this was not often! We took 68 days to walk the pilgrimage which included 10 rest days.<br />
<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-TRNG1F6rYLc/U7cgtGXBhDI/AAAAAAAAEYk/nqnkbyJqqrk/s1600/DSCN6281.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-TRNG1F6rYLc/U7cgtGXBhDI/AAAAAAAAEYk/nqnkbyJqqrk/s1600/DSCN6281.jpg" height="200" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My rucksack</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<b>Kit List</b><br />
Here is a list of the stuff we took to Japan:<br />
<br />
<b>Me:</b><br />
Terra Nova freestanding tent (shared, I carried poles and pegs, Mick carried the tent),<br />
sleeping bag 3 season<br />
inflatable mat<br />
small foam pillow<br />
Soto micro burner stove<br />
Aluminium pot and lid<br />
aluminium cup<br />
Drybag 40 litre<br />
Ancient rucksack c60 litres vintage c1983 (from St Nick's market in Bristol for £20)<br />
<br />
1 pair trousers (the sort with detachable legs)<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="clear: left; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-_bX_1ylW0ao/U7cgtn3iGnI/AAAAAAAAEYs/IHm1DTUnNCc/s1600/DSCN6282.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-_bX_1ylW0ao/U7cgtn3iGnI/AAAAAAAAEYs/IHm1DTUnNCc/s1600/DSCN6282.jpg" height="200" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mick's rucksack</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
1 shirt<br />
1 t-shirt<br />
1 vest<br />
1 bra<br />
2 pairs knickers<br />
1 pair of leggings<br />
1 buff<br />
1 fleece<br />
1 Sealskinz socks<br />
1 pair walking socks<br />
1 pair flipflops<br />
1 bum bag<br />
1 pair cheap waterproof shorts<br />
1 poncho<br />
1 pair Merrell Moab shoes<br />
<br />
small suncream lotion<br />
mosquito repellent DEET<br />
toothbrush<br />
small towel<br />
tick remover<br />
razors<br />
soap<br />
<br />
Macbook Air laptop & charger<br />
Iphone & charger<br />
camera & charger<br />
compass<br />
headlight<br />
biros<br />
highlighter<br />
notebook (paper I mean not another computer)<br />
phrasebook<br />
small whistle<br />
Plastic case for documents/passport<br />
prescription glasses<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Mick:</b><br />
<br />
Tent without poles or pegs (see above)<br />
Sleeping bag (two season)<br />
Inflatable mat<br />
Roll mat<br />
Inflatable pillow/pump<br />
Osprey kestrel 60 litre rucksack<br />
Drybag 45 litres<br />
<br />
2 long trousers<br />
2 t-shirts<br />
2 pairs pants<br />
3 pairs socks<br />
1 cycle shorts<br />
1 fleece<br />
1 Bushman hat<br />
1 pair plastic shoes<br />
1 poncho<br />
1 waterproof trousers<br />
1 pair Salomon boots (NOT waterproof although sold as Goretex…)<br />
<br />
toothbrush<br />
toothpaste<br />
blister plasters<br />
anti-inflammatories (Ibuprofen etc)<br />
surgical masking tape<br />
fitbit pedometer (which didn't sync with the iPhone)<br />
aluminium mug<br />
<br />
Travel Scrabble<br />
headlight<br />
small whistle<br />
sun lotion<br />
sun glasses<br />
prescription glasses<br />
razors<br />
DEET<br />
<br />
Hey! In writing this kit list I've realised I've been done over - Mick's had me carrying most of the heavy gear...<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-zQBVeAAajtM/U7cg-BlOyYI/AAAAAAAAEc0/eUeuySZtX0M/s1600/DSCN8862.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-zQBVeAAajtM/U7cg-BlOyYI/AAAAAAAAEc0/eUeuySZtX0M/s1600/DSCN8862.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My pilgrim bag</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<b>Kit/stuff we bought in Japan</b><br />
<b><br /></b>
<b>Me</b><br />
<br />
pilgrim shirt<br />
sun hat<br />
cheap raincoat and trousers (kept for one day then ditched)<br />
Goretex waterproof trousers<br />
lightweight raincoat<br />
wooden pilgrim staff<br />
bag<br />
croc shoes<br />
1 pair of socks<br />
mozzie repellant (DEET gave me a rash)<br />
camping gas (I got to carry that as well!)<br />
incense<br />
candles<br />
<a href="http://davidmoreton.com/Books-for-sale.php">Shikoku Japan 88 temple routeguide</a> - absolutely essential<br />
bells for repelling snakes<br />
mosquito coil and holder<br />
<br />
<b>Mick</b><br />
Goretex smock raincoat<br />
2 walking poles<br />
bells for repelling snakes<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Kit we threw/gave away</b><br />
<br />
<b>Me</b><br />
waterproof shorts<br />
cheap raincoat and trousers<br />
shirt (unworn)<br />
leggings<br />
bum bag<br />
Sealskinz socks (in a temper - regretted this later)<br />
flipflops (no good with socks)<br />
DEET<br />
soap (unessential)<br />
razors (unessential)<br />
tick remover<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Mick</b><br />
cycle shorts (too heavy, very upset about this)<br />
sun cream<br />
DEET<br />
shaving gel<br />
razor handles<br />
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-0SV3fEE9xfY/U7cg45jc-GI/AAAAAAAAEbc/RD2U_fFhLYo/s1600/DSCN8150.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-0SV3fEE9xfY/U7cg45jc-GI/AAAAAAAAEbc/RD2U_fFhLYo/s1600/DSCN8150.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Coin launderettes are handy<br />
<br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-rRkWeSjbJag/U7cuBQrf7cI/AAAAAAAAEdU/S9Uq7inUCXU/s1600/DSCN6872.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-rRkWeSjbJag/U7cuBQrf7cI/AAAAAAAAEdU/S9Uq7inUCXU/s1600/DSCN6872.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="font-size: 13px;">Mick in his rain gear while his clothes are washing</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Ai-0c_vwLoA/U7aeyx6_LFI/AAAAAAAAEYE/VhIYalZicZ0/s1600/DSCN8999.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Ai-0c_vwLoA/U7aeyx6_LFI/AAAAAAAAEYE/VhIYalZicZ0/s1600/DSCN8999.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Some have machines for washing shoes -<br />
pretty useful as our shoes got pretty rank.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
The first day we arrived on Shikoku we got chatting to a Belgian guy who had just finished. He said that as the walk had progressed he had given more and more stuff away to lighten his load. He had even given away his tent…<br />
<br />
Actually you could walk the pilgrimage and sleep outside without a tent if you wanted, a bivvy bag would be just fine most of the time. But we liked the tent for the privacy and the sanctuary it gave us from insects (and snakes of course).<br />
<br />
Some of our accommodation:<br />
*<i>tsuyado</i> is free temple accommodation<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-V2GSyDNavaw/U7cgtYFOQfI/AAAAAAAAEYo/-Kb-gdaZNMs/s1600/DSCN6363.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-V2GSyDNavaw/U7cgtYFOQfI/AAAAAAAAEYo/-Kb-gdaZNMs/s1600/DSCN6363.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">In the ferry waiting room</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-hR49sWWnk84/U7cgutEGbdI/AAAAAAAAEY4/HBvExhdspwE/s1600/DSCN6366.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-hR49sWWnk84/U7cgutEGbdI/AAAAAAAAEY4/HBvExhdspwE/s1600/DSCN6366.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sleeping on the ferry</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-2NmbQ6ZkogQ/U7cgvUETGrI/AAAAAAAAEZE/FYE-FOLd610/s1600/DSCN6379.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-2NmbQ6ZkogQ/U7cgvUETGrI/AAAAAAAAEZE/FYE-FOLd610/s1600/DSCN6379.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
Michi no Eki near Temple 1</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zF9FvBP9DwQ/U7nJagLJCwI/AAAAAAAAEdo/EVq1Vhfp11M/s1600/DSCN6469.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zF9FvBP9DwQ/U7nJagLJCwI/AAAAAAAAEdo/EVq1Vhfp11M/s1600/DSCN6469.JPG" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zF9FvBP9DwQ/U7nJagLJCwI/AAAAAAAAEdk/c0w5OSMlr1M/s1600/DSCN6469.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br /></a>
Tsuyado in bell tower Temple 6</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-WXR0AeuWm2w/U7cgvzrBlGI/AAAAAAAAEZM/Zfa4LWqDAys/s1600/DSCN6540.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-WXR0AeuWm2w/U7cgvzrBlGI/AAAAAAAAEZM/Zfa4LWqDAys/s1600/DSCN6540.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hut next to Onsen near Temple 11</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Pu1tqteKnsY/U7cgxg7NleI/AAAAAAAAEZk/sntqKF3GuRk/s1600/DSCN6625.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Pu1tqteKnsY/U7cgxg7NleI/AAAAAAAAEZk/sntqKF3GuRk/s1600/DSCN6625.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-6_lxm2VPkZE/U7cgxeTBLRI/AAAAAAAAEZg/nvL93gK-PQs/s1600/DSCN6846.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-6_lxm2VPkZE/U7cgxeTBLRI/AAAAAAAAEZg/nvL93gK-PQs/s1600/DSCN6846.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Mii0kpqyFkg/U7cgys0vaNI/AAAAAAAAEZ4/RRLEg7ZWD4I/s1600/DSCN6949.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Mii0kpqyFkg/U7cgys0vaNI/AAAAAAAAEZ4/RRLEg7ZWD4I/s1600/DSCN6949.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Disused school</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-rypNKYplmuU/U7cgyjouYnI/AAAAAAAAEZ0/w8GNJ1V8HL4/s1600/DSCN7172.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-rypNKYplmuU/U7cgyjouYnI/AAAAAAAAEZ0/w8GNJ1V8HL4/s1600/DSCN7172.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tsuyado Temple 35</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-H98eF5zuilE/U7cgy3LEWII/AAAAAAAAEZ8/CwSkIwCV8-Y/s1600/DSCN7300.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-H98eF5zuilE/U7cgy3LEWII/AAAAAAAAEZ8/CwSkIwCV8-Y/s1600/DSCN7300.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-4OeNlNBGUhU/U7cgz20YneI/AAAAAAAAEaM/nyGMEh89R2A/s1600/DSCN7454.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-4OeNlNBGUhU/U7cgz20YneI/AAAAAAAAEaM/nyGMEh89R2A/s1600/DSCN7454.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SHOGOwjrV60/U7cg0r6qHRI/AAAAAAAAEaQ/8MX5jD-ZXWI/s1600/DSCN7502.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SHOGOwjrV60/U7cg0r6qHRI/AAAAAAAAEaQ/8MX5jD-ZXWI/s1600/DSCN7502.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ina community hall </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ZqCWllKhFYU/U7cg0oCOTxI/AAAAAAAAEaY/G7iVRLRaLds/s1600/DSCN7547.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ZqCWllKhFYU/U7cg0oCOTxI/AAAAAAAAEaY/G7iVRLRaLds/s1600/DSCN7547.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The poshest henro hut we found!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Vs5yfdrwldU/U7cg2TCkS1I/AAAAAAAAEas/wt7HHDjrCmE/s1600/DSCN7739.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Vs5yfdrwldU/U7cg2TCkS1I/AAAAAAAAEas/wt7HHDjrCmE/s1600/DSCN7739.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">At a michi-no-eki</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-YrabjgSshwQ/U7cg26ZgNnI/AAAAAAAAEa4/SHCK52xnTAg/s1600/DSCN7955.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-YrabjgSshwQ/U7cg26ZgNnI/AAAAAAAAEa4/SHCK52xnTAg/s1600/DSCN7955.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The wonderful Sen Guesthouse in Matsuyama</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-_z-ktZGcOyU/U7cg3ObLYJI/AAAAAAAAEa8/yPZsSX_aWaI/s1600/DSCN7956.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-_z-ktZGcOyU/U7cg3ObLYJI/AAAAAAAAEa8/yPZsSX_aWaI/s1600/DSCN7956.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-KGZ0yPl3l8A/U7cg3jnTi4I/AAAAAAAAEbI/ng1xU6D3dTg/s1600/DSCN7981.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-KGZ0yPl3l8A/U7cg3jnTi4I/AAAAAAAAEbI/ng1xU6D3dTg/s1600/DSCN7981.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bunka no mori park near Matsuyama - the only time we were <br />
disturbed by someone asking us what we were doing...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8jtrK60wBPA/U7cg4dFDavI/AAAAAAAAEbQ/DSIye0X0gcY/s1600/DSCN7989.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8jtrK60wBPA/U7cg4dFDavI/AAAAAAAAEbQ/DSIye0X0gcY/s1600/DSCN7989.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ptZWWdYE9_8/U7cg49eA5QI/AAAAAAAAEbY/Xjl8fSqoCgg/s1600/DSCN8186.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ptZWWdYE9_8/U7cg49eA5QI/AAAAAAAAEbY/Xjl8fSqoCgg/s1600/DSCN8186.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fg1d79CIXhs/U7cg5RzoQkI/AAAAAAAAEbo/C6Igg6oN2gE/s1600/DSCN8256.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fg1d79CIXhs/U7cg5RzoQkI/AAAAAAAAEbo/C6Igg6oN2gE/s1600/DSCN8256.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tsuyado at Temple 66</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-d6WF7_0vfjI/U7cg6Wq9eyI/AAAAAAAAEb4/vOIVa-PTQnU/s1600/DSCN8423.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-d6WF7_0vfjI/U7cg6Wq9eyI/AAAAAAAAEb4/vOIVa-PTQnU/s1600/DSCN8423.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-RfV44RbloDo/U7cg7FhLGvI/AAAAAAAAEcE/4bMTawvMJec/s1600/DSCN8566.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-RfV44RbloDo/U7cg7FhLGvI/AAAAAAAAEcE/4bMTawvMJec/s1600/DSCN8566.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-caPAmawFHNE/U7cg8br8u2I/AAAAAAAAEcc/F8zg6PnSzVc/s1600/DSCN8668.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-caPAmawFHNE/U7cg8br8u2I/AAAAAAAAEcc/F8zg6PnSzVc/s1600/DSCN8668.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-KNaZbo-kU1Y/U7cg9qFm5tI/AAAAAAAAEcw/k0rV2NMMNEs/s1600/DSCN8757.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-KNaZbo-kU1Y/U7cg9qFm5tI/AAAAAAAAEcw/k0rV2NMMNEs/s1600/DSCN8757.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">On a campsite, nice to have facilities</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-bLOB1fELR7E/U7cg9gdWoqI/AAAAAAAAEcs/jxyKmJHKzwQ/s1600/IMG_0532.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-bLOB1fELR7E/U7cg9gdWoqI/AAAAAAAAEcs/jxyKmJHKzwQ/s1600/IMG_0532.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<b><br /></b>
</div>
Elliehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07671617922958041389noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2705526479207156981.post-91952084729992969922014-06-25T08:16:00.000+01:002014-06-25T08:24:52.557+01:00The Road to Ryōzenji<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<br />
<div class="" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-83lJmZVPO2w/U6pChJ3y16I/AAAAAAAAEUk/M74CeDlFnB0/s1600/DSCN8688.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-83lJmZVPO2w/U6pChJ3y16I/AAAAAAAAEUk/M74CeDlFnB0/s1600/DSCN8688.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a><span style="text-align: left;"></span></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
<span style="text-align: left;">We were on day 59 when we left the Chisun Hotel and walked the short distance to Konzōji, Temple 76. We had already been walking longer than most people take to finish the pilgrimage and we still had another twelve temples to visit and around 135 kilometres to walk. But this is not a race, I reminded myself. We had always planned to take our time. Last is the new First. After all, we already have the <a href="http://www.slowfood.com/">Slow Food Movement</a> and the <a href="https://www.facebook.com/pages/The-Slow-Bicycle-Movement/428098919912">Slow Bicycle Movement</a>. Mick and I are thinking of setting up the Slow Walk Movement, to promote slow walking everywhere. Why rush when we may never pass this way again? Ok, that's our excuses for being slowies over with…</span></div>
<br />
<div style="text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div style="text-align: left;">
The weather had been kind to us considering it was the rainy season; after the first few days of June it has stayed dry most of the time and although it is very humid the sun was not as burning hot as it had been during May. But how long could our luck with the weather hold?</div>
<br />
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-b6GxSY1kA8o/U6pCw07j03I/AAAAAAAAEWQ/WXqDURUIF54/s1600/DSCN8765.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-b6GxSY1kA8o/U6pCw07j03I/AAAAAAAAEWQ/WXqDURUIF54/s1600/DSCN8765.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a>We were now walking through the urban conurbation at the top of Kagawa Prefecture. Urban areas created more problems for finding somewhere to camp and we were reluctant to spend a third night in accommodation (reluctant due to our budget rather than for any masochistic preference for sleeping in a tiny tent). Late in the afternoon we visited Temple 79, Tennoji, where I had read there was a <i>tsuyado </i>(free temple accommodation for pilgrims). I asked at the office but was told there was no tsuyado so I asked whether there was anywhere nearby we could camp. The answer was a regretful shake of the head. We started walking down the road when we heard a call behind us. Another couple of about our age had been walking along just behind us and they were also carrying their tent. The woman beckoned to us to come back. Her English was limited and my Japanese had not improved itself during our stay but she conveyed to us that we should wait for the temple to close. I wasn't sure why but, taking her advice we sat on the steps and waited. Her husband tried to speak to us in Japanese but soon gave up and I wished for about the billionth time that I knew how to say more than "I am from England' and 'Excuse me, we are lost.' Leaving his pack, he disappeared off down the road. Meanwhile his wife had directed us to the shrine next to the temple. 'Ok,' she said, pointing to our tent.<br />
We put our tent up and she put up theirs. A while later her husband reappeared, he had walked down to the convenience store some distance away. He brought over two cans of beer and some skewers of meat. 'Osettai' he said. 'Gift'.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-8UjtDR06LCA/U6pCI173hKI/AAAAAAAAERc/Rm7WwUeAgbk/s1600/DSCN8436.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-8UjtDR06LCA/U6pCI173hKI/AAAAAAAAERc/Rm7WwUeAgbk/s1600/DSCN8436.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
The next morning they left promptly at five heading towards Temple 80, Kokubunji while we tried to wake ourselves up with copious cups of coffee. Eventually we followed. We had some climbs ahead of us today, onto the Goshikidai Plateau where temples 81 and 82 are situated. Mick dubbed Shiromineji, Temple 81, 'Worship through the giftshop'; the Daishi Hall was situated at the back of the shop and you had to look at it through trays of trinkets and keyrings which we found a little odd. But the walk on the plateau was fabulous, undulating through pine trees, and we thoroughly enjoyed it. We stopped at a small udon-ya for some lunch then walked on to visit Temple 82, Negoroji. I loved this temple, it was beautiful and even now in summer the Japanese maple was a stunning contrast of reds and greens; in autumn it must be superb. One of the huge pleasures of this walk was the anticipation each time we stepped through the temple gate, never knowing what surprises each temple would bring.<br />
<br />
After Negoroji we walked through Takumatsu City, stopping for a while at the 300 year old Ritsurin Gardens, beautifully laid out with lakes, tea-houses and bridges. But we had not long entered when Mick had a 'moment'. 'I can't go on, Ellie, I can't do this any more,' he said, plonking himself down on a bench. I slapped him round the face and told him to shape up. (Only kidding, I gave him a banana and some peanuts.) We rested for a long time in the park and a lovely lady gave us two fans to help keep us cool. Once again we had been given a boost by the kindness of the local people here.<br />
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-eJca8sJxg_w/U6pCTcHd-8I/AAAAAAAAESs/hM02cSOKwm0/s1600/DSCN8550.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-eJca8sJxg_w/U6pCTcHd-8I/AAAAAAAAESs/hM02cSOKwm0/s1600/DSCN8550.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ritsurin Garden, Takamatsu</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/--F-MNV9Mamc/U6pCTeE9-5I/AAAAAAAAESw/HLvTOPmRZDM/s1600/DSCN8529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/--F-MNV9Mamc/U6pCTeE9-5I/AAAAAAAAESw/HLvTOPmRZDM/s1600/DSCN8529.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gift of fans</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-YuH356xUZ4s/U6pCKrrbIBI/AAAAAAAAER4/kKqJNXOZrWI/s1600/DSCN8477.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-YuH356xUZ4s/U6pCKrrbIBI/AAAAAAAAER4/kKqJNXOZrWI/s1600/DSCN8477.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Temple 82</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Pkz-Ae29qNM/U6pCJ8hvKeI/AAAAAAAAERo/BckoncG_ibA/s1600/DSCN8464.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Pkz-Ae29qNM/U6pCJ8hvKeI/AAAAAAAAERo/BckoncG_ibA/s1600/DSCN8464.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-YEc8GIgGfSA/U6pCUFG0DMI/AAAAAAAAES8/0csjoBs0sWk/s1600/DSCN8568.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-YEc8GIgGfSA/U6pCUFG0DMI/AAAAAAAAES8/0csjoBs0sWk/s1600/DSCN8568.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Gifts</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
That evening we pitched our tent next to a small lake in the middle of a little village. Soon we had become the subject of much attention. In a good way of course. A man taking photographs by the lake went off and brought his family back to say hello. Later his wife returned with some sweets and some freshly cooked onigili (rice balls) filled with salmon. Another man gave us fruit. And even after we had tucked into bed and gone to sleep we heard someone calling only to find a another couple of ladies who had stopped earlier had gone home, packed up some food for us for breakfast and driven back with it! Blimey. If two strangers turned up in an English village and pitched a tent on the green would they get the same welcome? I suspect not somehow.<br />
<br />
Uphill again the next morning to Temple 84. This morning it was my turn to have a 'moment' and I grumbled and scowled all the way to the top. Then down again and up again…then I thought about our friend Rachel who had walked this pilgrimage last year. She knew how hard it would get for us. When she had said goodbye to us at Temple One she had given us an <i>osame-fuda (</i>nameslip). Pilgrims write their name, address and date on them and place them at Temples and also give them to those who offer <i>ossettai</i> (gifts). They are different colours depending on how often one has completed the pilgrimage (by whatever means, whether bus, car, walking etc). Brocade slips are given by those who have completed the pilgrimage over 100 times. Rachel had given us a brocade slip that she had been given on her pilgrimage. The number on the back said 219.<br />
'Carry this with you,' she had told us. 'Remember, it knows its way.'<br />
Often, when we struggled to carry on I thought of Rachel's nameslip and Mick told me he did too. 'We can't give up,' we told each other. 'We have to carry the nameslip back to Temple One.' Thank you Rachel.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-8vDqBs16Yl8/U6pC0EbfIjI/AAAAAAAAEXI/9hF5toxwgeU/s1600/DSCN8848.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-8vDqBs16Yl8/U6pC0EbfIjI/AAAAAAAAEXI/9hF5toxwgeU/s1600/DSCN8848.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Brocade Nameslips</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-c9YCY0cwV7c/U6pCVX1kYaI/AAAAAAAAETg/WXYaoESNUEA/s1600/DSCN8633.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-c9YCY0cwV7c/U6pCVX1kYaI/AAAAAAAAETg/WXYaoESNUEA/s1600/DSCN8633.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a>On the afternoon of Day 63 we arrived at Nagao michi-no-eki (road station). We had visited 87 of the 88 temples on the pilgrimage. Only one more to go then there was just the 40k walk back to Ryōzenji, Temple One. The only problem was that before reaching Temple 88 there was the small matter of climbing Mount Nyotai. Mick had been scaring himself for days by reading about the climb up which apparently involved some scrambling up a rock face. The best thing, we decided, would be to put it off. We decided to have the following day as yet another rest day. In any case we wanted to visit the nearby Maeyama Ohenro Salon. We set up camp next to the reservoir opposite the michi-no-eki. We treated ourselves to a couple of bottles of beer and then realised that we <i>still</i> had not remembered to buy ourselves a bottle opener. Mick opened the bottles on the stone steps, succeeding in chipping the neck of each one as he did so. We drank them gingerly, watching out for slivers of broken glass, as the liquid slid down.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-AhF8d46vsM4/U6pCf_i27JI/AAAAAAAAEUM/3yjgMph-bXg/s1600/DSCN8665.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-AhF8d46vsM4/U6pCf_i27JI/AAAAAAAAEUM/3yjgMph-bXg/s1600/DSCN8665.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-gVQopb10aqY/U6pCghfwTUI/AAAAAAAAEUc/wahzxNwUPzg/s1600/DSCN8669.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-gVQopb10aqY/U6pCghfwTUI/AAAAAAAAEUc/wahzxNwUPzg/s1600/DSCN8669.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-8Qc1W8Gbelw/U6pCg-rs7iI/AAAAAAAAEUg/Q51vSuUPVV8/s1600/DSCN8676.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-8Qc1W8Gbelw/U6pCg-rs7iI/AAAAAAAAEUg/Q51vSuUPVV8/s1600/DSCN8676.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Not recommended...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-j6EgEkO6_z8/U6pCWq4blBI/AAAAAAAAETo/mrNVwkHfkco/s1600/IMG_0673.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-j6EgEkO6_z8/U6pCWq4blBI/AAAAAAAAETo/mrNVwkHfkco/s1600/IMG_0673.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Osettai from a local lad</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-5OfMtSG-3ek/U6pCLFPePZI/AAAAAAAAESA/5f-2TLxotHE/s1600/DSCN8489.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-5OfMtSG-3ek/U6pCLFPePZI/AAAAAAAAESA/5f-2TLxotHE/s1600/DSCN8489.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Some signposting is a little confusing...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-hrRfwjwASFk/U6pCm1D2LAI/AAAAAAAAEWA/X8QySBDvYUI/s1600/DSCN8740.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-hrRfwjwASFk/U6pCm1D2LAI/AAAAAAAAEWA/X8QySBDvYUI/s1600/DSCN8740.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-G38RHtT-l9o/U6pCKAMebKI/AAAAAAAAERs/MebKAd9oaRg/s1600/DSCN8474.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-G38RHtT-l9o/U6pCKAMebKI/AAAAAAAAERs/MebKAd9oaRg/s1600/DSCN8474.jpg" height="200" width="150" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ylEPvntkt80/U6pCVTT6PbI/AAAAAAAAETY/hEtH-7Kth1w/s1600/DSCN8639.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ylEPvntkt80/U6pCVTT6PbI/AAAAAAAAETY/hEtH-7Kth1w/s1600/DSCN8639.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
The next morning we visited the Ohenro Salon and were presented with a certificate and a little badge, given to walking henro who get this far. My certificate was numbered 2497. As the year ran from July to June and we were mid-way through the latter, not many more than 2500 would be issued. Not everyone stops here of course, but this tied up with the estimates we had read of 3000-5000 walkers per year. Of these around 50-100 or so are foreigners. The manager of the centre handed us the certificates. 'You need to read and understand what it says,' she said to me. I read the English translation:<br />
<br />
<i> This is to certify that you have successfully completed the 1200km of Shikoku 88 Temples Pilgrimage on foot and that you are named as a Henro Ambassador. We wish that the interaction with the people, the culture and the nature of Shikou enriches your life and that you will spread the Henro culture worldwide.</i><br />
<br />
As I reached the end of the paragraph I burst into tears.<br />
'Hard walk?' asked the woman sympathetically.<br />
'No. Yes. I mean, it was difficult but I'm crying because it was such a lovely thing to do,' I said incoherently, sniffing into a tissue she had handed to me. We drank green tea and looked around the henro centre which had some great exhibits showing the history of the walk. This year was 1200 years since its inception when Kobo Daishi, founder of Shingon Buddhism, first established the pilgrimage and pilgrims have been following the route ever since. There were old stamp books with ink stamps from each of the temples visited, some of them so many times that the pages had turned entirely red with ink. Walking this pilgrimage had been walking in history. We also signed our names in the register and were pleased to note some familiar names of people who had passed ahead of us (by now everyone we met had long since gone home and were no doubt settled in front of the telly with a beer watching the world cup). Hamish, Nico, Kenji, Chiaki had all signed the book and received their certificate here.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JLHeZCeAl20/U6pCV939k6I/AAAAAAAAETc/BWqOWq_k4DA/s1600/DSCN8649.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JLHeZCeAl20/U6pCV939k6I/AAAAAAAAETc/BWqOWq_k4DA/s1600/DSCN8649.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-gOIqw2Kk1B8/U6pCfme_C_I/AAAAAAAAEUQ/lpKF8xADVgw/s1600/DSCN8651.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-gOIqw2Kk1B8/U6pCfme_C_I/AAAAAAAAEUQ/lpKF8xADVgw/s1600/DSCN8651.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Proudly receiving our certificates</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
The next morning we knew we had to get on with it. We had our certificates now, we had to get this walk completed. We left at five thirty, amazed that once again we had a dry day in this rainy season. It seemed the rains had not come this year. As is so often the case, anticipation was worse than the reality, and the walk, though steep, was enjoyable as we climbed ever higher. There was indeed a scramble at the summit up over rocks where we were mindful of keeping our balance with our 10k+ packs on our backs, but it was only short and quite good fun. As we pulled ourselves up some new metal handles newly placed into the rocks onto the summit we were rewarded by terrific views, even through the summer haze, back down the mountain.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bM1YSNTMIFs/U6pCibuYZNI/AAAAAAAAEVA/Nj7ePBt4BRo/s1600/DSCN8694.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bM1YSNTMIFs/U6pCibuYZNI/AAAAAAAAEVA/Nj7ePBt4BRo/s1600/DSCN8694.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Walking up….</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-A9JBbkdWEQM/U6ptM5ys_JI/AAAAAAAAEXo/XtgIddHKNrk/s1600/DSCN8698.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-A9JBbkdWEQM/U6ptM5ys_JI/AAAAAAAAEXo/XtgIddHKNrk/s1600/DSCN8698.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">At the top of Mt Nyotai</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Nz1J-txyPnc/U6pCjqdnASI/AAAAAAAAEVY/B-7izMiDynU/s1600/DSCN8704.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Nz1J-txyPnc/U6pCjqdnASI/AAAAAAAAEVY/B-7izMiDynU/s1600/DSCN8704.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-gMTF3xAYG7I/U6pCWwC1MGI/AAAAAAAAET0/MqCMN2kdL6Q/s1600/IMG_0677.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-gMTF3xAYG7I/U6pCWwC1MGI/AAAAAAAAET0/MqCMN2kdL6Q/s1600/IMG_0677.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Walking down...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
The path down to Ōkubunji, Temple 88 was hard on the knees as it dropped steeply down the other side of the mountain but it was not long before we were walking through the temple gate with great big grins on our faces. Many people leave their staffs here, considering that it's job is now done, but I decided to hang on to mine until we reached Temple One. The temple was busy with pilgrims and we received many smiles and good wishes as we walked from the temple down to the cafe outside. Fortified with large bowls of udon we headed down the road. Almost there!!<br />
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-KRynluM0Nio/U6pCkscujqI/AAAAAAAAEVk/fC8ykiuMPIA/s1600/DSCN8720.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-KRynluM0Nio/U6pCkscujqI/AAAAAAAAEVk/fC8ykiuMPIA/s1600/DSCN8720.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Staffs at Temple 88</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Bxxih3jnLl4/U6pCjk3trRI/AAAAAAAAEVU/My7UWg4anMk/s1600/DSCN8713.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br /><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Bxxih3jnLl4/U6pCjk3trRI/AAAAAAAAEVU/My7UWg4anMk/s1600/DSCN8713.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-MIzc4rerJJc/U6pCk6NlRJI/AAAAAAAAEVo/ujcilI_F4EE/s1600/DSCN8723.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-MIzc4rerJJc/U6pCk6NlRJI/AAAAAAAAEVo/ujcilI_F4EE/s1600/DSCN8723.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Temple 88</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-iEoMoXtdwQg/U6pCTCpuYsI/AAAAAAAAESo/WCdKItYVHdI/s1600/DSCN8565.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><br /></a><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-iEoMoXtdwQg/U6pCTCpuYsI/AAAAAAAAESo/WCdKItYVHdI/s1600/DSCN8565.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; text-align: left;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-iEoMoXtdwQg/U6pCTCpuYsI/AAAAAAAAESo/WCdKItYVHdI/s1600/DSCN8565.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-w99xWXyyApw/U6pCUZU31DI/AAAAAAAAETA/05Vyw1KJBGI/s1600/DSCN8599.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-w99xWXyyApw/U6pCUZU31DI/AAAAAAAAETA/05Vyw1KJBGI/s1600/DSCN8599.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-bV1oW-XaG5U/U6pCyR8cShI/AAAAAAAAEWo/gRlCuChSxDg/s1600/DSCN8784.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-bV1oW-XaG5U/U6pCyR8cShI/AAAAAAAAEWo/gRlCuChSxDg/s1600/DSCN8784.jpg" height="150" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Some of the path between Temple 88 and <br />
Temple 1 is very overgrown...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-PRSYzUjSH98/U6pCUvPDrfI/AAAAAAAAETE/RQhSoPEcpIU/s1600/DSCN8626.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-PRSYzUjSH98/U6pCUvPDrfI/AAAAAAAAETE/RQhSoPEcpIU/s1600/DSCN8626.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4oig_FVQHcg/U6pCXJEaftI/AAAAAAAAETw/dN_XxOSAsZE/s1600/IMG_0705.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4oig_FVQHcg/U6pCXJEaftI/AAAAAAAAETw/dN_XxOSAsZE/s1600/IMG_0705.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
True to form, it would be another four days before we finally completed the walk through the mountains over Ōsaka-Tōge Pass to Ōasahiko Jinja Shrine and walked the final kilometre down the lantern-lined road from the shrine, under the huge torii gate and arrived at the entrance to Temple One, Ryōzenji. It was 68 days after leaving here on 17 April. It seemed such a long time ago. Then the temple had been bustling with pilgrims, now it was quiet with just one or two people walking in the gardens. We both felt a little choked. Mick has wanted to walk this pilgrimage for the past ten years. He came out to walk it in August 2009 but it was too hot. We tried to cycle the route in September 2013 and gave up at Kochi. Now, finally, we had done it. I left my staff at the temple and we went to the stamp office to get a temple stamp. We were delighted when the monk there gave us each a bracelet as a present for completing the pilgrimage. For us it was a final reminder of why this walk is so special, as we recalled all the gifts, kindness and support we had received as we had travelled around this amazing island. It was an experience that I knew neither of us would ever forget.<br />
<br />
<b><i>Postscript:</i></b><br />
<br />
I'm writing this from the comfort of a hotel room in Tokushima where we are spending a few days relaxing before travelling around Japan for a couple of weeks, not on foot this time but by train. My head is full of the experiences of the past two months and I'm trying sort the jumble out into a coherent narrative of our journey. And through it all a thought occurs and a smile spreads across my face. I remember Bristol Airport all these weeks ago and I say out loud to Mick, 'I need to tell my sister, we didn't fuck it up!'*<br />
<br />
*see <a href="http://elliestravelstories.blogspot.jp/2014/04/back-in-japan.html">post</a> dated 14 April 2014<br />
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-7kfB1pDYfF0/U6pvNIqROfI/AAAAAAAAEX0/2PMoT9BDanc/s1600/DSCN8798.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-7kfB1pDYfF0/U6pvNIqROfI/AAAAAAAAEX0/2PMoT9BDanc/s1600/DSCN8798.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The road to Ryōzenji</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-y7PNb27tkEQ/U6pCy0jU_5I/AAAAAAAAEWw/SKxmpeBi7_0/s1600/DSCN8802.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-y7PNb27tkEQ/U6pCy0jU_5I/AAAAAAAAEWw/SKxmpeBi7_0/s1600/DSCN8802.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wPhMP-p5OPI/U6pCzV0BxxI/AAAAAAAAEW8/WyQKbCAytvs/s1600/DSCN8803.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wPhMP-p5OPI/U6pCzV0BxxI/AAAAAAAAEW8/WyQKbCAytvs/s1600/DSCN8803.jpg" height="246" width="320" /></a></div>
</td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">At Ryōzenji, Temple One</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-q8NZ13VL-eU/U6pC05I-kPI/AAAAAAAAEXU/QkYFGJet1MI/s1600/DSCN8851.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-q8NZ13VL-eU/U6pC05I-kPI/AAAAAAAAEXU/QkYFGJet1MI/s1600/DSCN8851.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-TBdyq2w4EJY/U6pCL01pPzI/AAAAAAAAESU/P9st9BLapwM/s1600/DSCN8502.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-TBdyq2w4EJY/U6pCL01pPzI/AAAAAAAAESU/P9st9BLapwM/s1600/DSCN8502.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ZiukDiCRcHc/U6pCw8wdVhI/AAAAAAAAEWU/SFIF0LaonL4/s1600/DSCN8770.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ZiukDiCRcHc/U6pCw8wdVhI/AAAAAAAAEWU/SFIF0LaonL4/s1600/DSCN8770.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<br /></div>
<div class="" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<iframe frameborder="0" height="500px" scrolling="no" src="http://www.mappedometer.com/routes/embeddedroute.php?maproute=308305&units=2&showmarkers=1&showdistance=1&eid=653&domain=www.elliestravelstories.blogspot.com&mapsize=2" style="text-align: left;" width="500px"></iframe></div>
</div>
Elliehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07671617922958041389noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2705526479207156981.post-80844846699398723402014-06-13T05:12:00.000+01:002014-06-25T08:03:25.365+01:00Shikoku 88 - almost there...<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-sDNip5zRru0/U5ppiDYg1BI/AAAAAAAAEKA/Jj6WqWFtK7A/s1600/DSCN7960.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-sDNip5zRru0/U5ppiDYg1BI/AAAAAAAAEKA/Jj6WqWFtK7A/s1600/DSCN7960.jpg" height="150" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">With Matthew and Noriko at the wonderful <br />
<a href="http://senguesthouse-matsuyama.com/about-us-2/">Sen Guesthouse, Matsuyama</a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Perhaps we had stayed too long at Matsuyama. It felt so hard to get going again after our four day mini-break. On the other hand we really needed the rest time. In truth we could have stayed there another week and it would still have been hard to get going again. We had walked farther than we had walked in our lives before and we were dog tired. But on Friday morning after innumerable cups of coffee we finally said goodbye to Sen Guesthouse and shuffled our way out of town and towards the top corner of Shikoku. After visiting two more temples we camped in a nice looking park called Bunka-no-Mori and settled down for the night as soon as it got dark.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-P-vNpXjqhXw/U5ppiW8ry4I/AAAAAAAAEKE/IjcYOu9H8ug/s1600/DSCN7981.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-P-vNpXjqhXw/U5ppiW8ry4I/AAAAAAAAEKE/IjcYOu9H8ug/s1600/DSCN7981.jpg" height="150" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Camping at Bunka no Mori park</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
We were both fast asleep when a flashlight shone into the tent. Blearily I tried to rake together my Japanese phrases to explain what we were doing, walking the pilgrimage. Normally camping in a park isn't a problem but we had obviously inadvertently goofed this time. I assured the man we would be gone at six and he was fine with this. 'Good night,' he said, and left us to it. The next morning I noticed that there was a temple on the edge of the park grounds which we had not noticed the night before, so maybe that was the problem.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-d_LVKow6ZFw/U5ppiLfPoMI/AAAAAAAAEJ8/RVNin2Rpygs/s1600/DSCN7978.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-d_LVKow6ZFw/U5ppiLfPoMI/AAAAAAAAEJ8/RVNin2Rpygs/s1600/DSCN7978.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cafe outside Matsuyama -<br />
gave us free drink as walking henro</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-KbIgMGRL9io/U5ppjTFayHI/AAAAAAAAEKM/yIqQw0maPxc/s1600/DSCN7985.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-KbIgMGRL9io/U5ppjTFayHI/AAAAAAAAEKM/yIqQw0maPxc/s1600/DSCN7985.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a>Matthew at Sen guesthouse had told us about <a href="http://en.japantravel.com/view/kashima-island">Kashima Island</a>, a little island with campgrounds not far from here. The little ferry was not the last word in style, it had a massive model deer stuck on the roof in homage to the deer that roam the island but when we got there the only deer we cold see were in a cage next to the museum. It was a lovely place though, and nice and quiet so we decided to take yet another rest day and relaxed playing scrabble all day and camped overnight before catching the first ferry back in the morning. Although it had been lovely this would not do, at this rate we would still be walking this pilgrimage in September. We needed to up our game.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-4mKF-ZI0Ml4/U5ppkUMl6TI/AAAAAAAAEKk/iFdtliYGNUk/s1600/DSCN8000.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-4mKF-ZI0Ml4/U5ppkUMl6TI/AAAAAAAAEKk/iFdtliYGNUk/s1600/DSCN8000.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JcA1d135rZ8/U5ppjqiwx4I/AAAAAAAAEKQ/Wjl4894p4u0/s1600/DSCN7993.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JcA1d135rZ8/U5ppjqiwx4I/AAAAAAAAEKQ/Wjl4894p4u0/s1600/DSCN7993.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sunset on Kashima Island</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OEA1xEP7rEU/U5ppkzFOzyI/AAAAAAAAEKo/i_PRepxU7a8/s1600/DSCN8033.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OEA1xEP7rEU/U5ppkzFOzyI/AAAAAAAAEKo/i_PRepxU7a8/s1600/DSCN8033.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Petrochemical works - less scenic section...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-W_4nbM6VuCo/U5ppkX250WI/AAAAAAAAELE/d1lVkIQ6_kQ/s1600/DSCN8017.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-W_4nbM6VuCo/U5ppkX250WI/AAAAAAAAELE/d1lVkIQ6_kQ/s1600/DSCN8017.jpg" height="200" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lovely Udon</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Luckily or unluckily, the next section through Imabari did not make us want to tarry. It wasn't terrible, just boring, industrial landscapes. Trudge, trudge, trudge for the next few days up and down city streets with barely a bench or rest place for miles. Despite the effort I knew it would entail, I found myself looking forward to the next mountain temple. Mick, however was not. His combined phobias for snakes and heights meant he viewed the hillier parts of the trail with some trepidation.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-W7vIistiWXk/U5pplyMlFNI/AAAAAAAAEK0/KQnMWxt2O5I/s1600/DSCN8058.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-W7vIistiWXk/U5pplyMlFNI/AAAAAAAAEK0/KQnMWxt2O5I/s1600/DSCN8058.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
We had now entered June, Japan's rainy season, and sure enough it started to rain. We decided to wait it out before climbing up to Temple 60, Yokomineji, which is at 740 metres up a mountain trail and instead detoured to Komatsu Oasis where there was a michi-no-eki and onsen. I had entertained hopes of trekking on from Temple 60 to <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mount_Ishizuchi">Ishizuchi-san</a>, which at 1982 metres is the highest mountain in Western Japan, but Mick was not keen to say the least. 'Don't you think we've got enough to do?' he demanded, 'without climbing mountains which are not even on the route?' I suppose he had a point, and in any event the weather made it impossible, even at 900 metres the clouds brought the visibility down to zero. Mount Ishizuchi would have to wait for another time.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-QntO047HRs0/U5ppsbz9e0I/AAAAAAAAEL4/zpyE0hvap7o/s1600/DSCN8112.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-QntO047HRs0/U5ppsbz9e0I/AAAAAAAAEL4/zpyE0hvap7o/s1600/DSCN8112.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Camping under cover to avoid the rain</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-WEJybU-AoWQ/U5prtxXvtUI/AAAAAAAAEMc/PQg4gxc7fFw/s1600/DSCN8150.jpg" height="320" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="240" /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Coin launderettes mean clean clothes<br />
…for a while</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4kyKWy7lPKE/U5pr5sfESWI/AAAAAAAAEPw/zaQZs-PRrnk/s1600/IMG_0553.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4kyKWy7lPKE/U5pr5sfESWI/AAAAAAAAEPw/zaQZs-PRrnk/s1600/IMG_0553.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Just a few of the umbrellas left on trains</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Two days later it was still raining and we gave up waiting and walked the path up to Temple 60. Yokomineji is the remotest temple on the Shikoku 88 route and the last one to have road access, although we would not be taking the road way. Despite initial trepidation about climbing up in the rain, it turned out to be a lovely path alongside a full river that tumbled down the mountain next to the path. We picked our way carefully up to avoid the many freshwater crabs or <i>sawagani</i> that were scattered across the path.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-1tr-u4Og8CA/U5rAkrOb37I/AAAAAAAAERA/TdteoOX7dOk/s1600/IMG_0504.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-1tr-u4Og8CA/U5rAkrOb37I/AAAAAAAAERA/TdteoOX7dOk/s1600/IMG_0504.jpg" height="320" width="318" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mw_cPCpsYpo/U5ppskOqU9I/AAAAAAAAEMA/5Y2hZ5OPedI/s1600/DSCN8118.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mw_cPCpsYpo/U5ppskOqU9I/AAAAAAAAEMA/5Y2hZ5OPedI/s1600/DSCN8118.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8_mvCxyeFV4/U5prt84oQdI/AAAAAAAAEMU/zmv9yAb3G-w/s1600/DSCN8125.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8_mvCxyeFV4/U5prt84oQdI/AAAAAAAAEMU/zmv9yAb3G-w/s1600/DSCN8125.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
</td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-nC4VbMiykhU/U5rAkulsnGI/AAAAAAAAERE/bz_7_ubi6WM/s1600/IMG_0497.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="font-size: medium; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-nC4VbMiykhU/U5rAkulsnGI/AAAAAAAAERE/bz_7_ubi6WM/s1600/IMG_0497.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-voxK9x3hLH8/U5prt0pgYwI/AAAAAAAAEMY/zxgRuBtWXow/s1600/DSCN8128.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="font-size: medium; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-voxK9x3hLH8/U5prt0pgYwI/AAAAAAAAEMY/zxgRuBtWXow/s1600/DSCN8128.jpg" height="240" width="320" /> </a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The top of the mountain swirled with mist and the temperature had dropped enough for me to don my jumper for the first time in weeks. We ate lunch in a room set aside for the purpose before winding our way down the other side of the hill and back to the michi-no-eki for another night. I wondered whether the staff suspected us of becoming permanent residents. But the following morning the rain started to clear and we finally set off for the walk across the top of Shikoku. It was a long straight road but at least every step now took us in the right direction. I was seriously flagging now, constantly checking the guide to see how far we had walked, and, more importantly, how far we had to go. We had been walking for 50 days and walked 'officially' 900 kilometres although our actual total was a little higher. Mick had taken to escapism, fantasising that he was lying on a beach with a pint of Exmoor Ale at his side…<br />
<br />
We camped at a bangai (unnumbered) temple, Enmeiji. Already installed in the henro hut was a henro we had met way back before Temple 40, Zenku, who had told us he had been on the road for twelve years, and another henro on a moped who was taking two weeks to visit the twenty bangai temples of Shikoku. We had a lovely evening, the four of us, sitting at the table until late in the evening. Well, until nine o'clock anyway, which these days is way past our bedtime. And for the second time since Matsuyama, we broke our self-imposed alcohol ban with a bottle of cold Japanese beer while Zenku regaled us with tales of deadly snakes and insects to be found on the mountain.<br />
'The mamushi is the worst snake,' he said. 'If it bites you...(Zenku waved his hand) then bye-bye. You go up there, (he pointed skywards) to heaven.' Then he started on the insects. 'There is a big insect, if you see it you must get down on the floor. If it stings, then bye-bye.'<br />
'You go to heaven?' I asked.<br />
He nodded. 'Yes, you go to heaven.'<br />
'I don't want to know,' I said.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-vjqAIIu-vV4/U5prwMzKx1I/AAAAAAAAEM8/2kQYOChyzJU/s1600/DSCN8188.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-vjqAIIu-vV4/U5prwMzKx1I/AAAAAAAAEM8/2kQYOChyzJU/s1600/DSCN8188.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hasa Gawa, Zenku and Mick</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
For some days now Mick had been muttering darkly about the next mountain temple on our route - Unpenji, the highest of them all at 900 metres. There was no putting it off though, and the next day we set off towards Togawa Park where we planned to camp before walking first to Sankakuji, Temple 65 and then on to Unpenji. The walk would be around 25 kilometres, and we hoped to stay at the temple when we got there. Zenku had reiterated several times that there was no food to be had on the walk so we set off staggering with the combined weight of several bags of peanuts, dehydrated meals, six boiled eggs, a bag of fruit and a litre of water. I could barely walk under the weight of it all.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-9oDQzm0Gkok/U5prwtDhoFI/AAAAAAAAENE/oSh9XTGcC1s/s1600/DSCN8209.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-9oDQzm0Gkok/U5prwtDhoFI/AAAAAAAAENE/oSh9XTGcC1s/s1600/DSCN8209.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Scarecrow</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
There are three ways to climb Unpenji. I had wanted to climb the old pilgrim route but Mick, looking at the guidebook over my shoulder spotted the word "steep" written underneath that route. Another pilgrim confirmed that the easier route was through a 900 metre road tunnel and up the path on the other side. Well it depends how you define easy. Personally I would take a steep mountain path (plus deadly snakes and insects) over a tunnel with a six inch pavement and huge lorries roaring past every time. By the time we emerged at the other end my white jacket was filthy from where I had pressed myself to the wall every time a lorry roared past and I was weeping in terror. Mick was contrite. 'Ok, no more tunnels, Shortie,' he said. 'You're right, they're deadly. Next time there's a tunnel we go over the hill.' We started the climb up the mountain. It was crushingly humid and the way up was steep. But every time we stopped for a rest, mosquitoes would descend on us with relish and we were forced to start moving again. Finally we reached the top, only to find there was a shop at the ropeway station selling peanuts, crisps and offering complimentary cups of green tea.<br />
<br />
Umpenji is a magnificent temple of beautiful buildings. It also strongly features an aubergine (eggplant) for reasons which I was unable to discover; you can sit on a brass eggplant and make a wish, which we did of course. It also had free accommodation in the form of a tsuyado which we gratefully accepted. At five the temple and the ropeway closed and all was quiet on the mountain. There was just the two of us and David, a German henro who told us he had come from walking the Appalachian Trail and found this walk easy after the AT. He was walking around 40k per day. At dusk Mick and I walked out to the ropeway station and took in the view across the city below with the Seto Inland Sea in the distance. On our way back to our room we were startled by a German Shepherd dog which suddenly bounded out of nowhere and began jumping up at us. Eventually a monk on a moped appeared and called the dog away, perhaps he had not expected to see us there.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-u_TKyMeUJ3E/U5pryDFviuI/AAAAAAAAENg/dI9GVmfW42M/s1600/DSCN8256.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-u_TKyMeUJ3E/U5pryDFviuI/AAAAAAAAENg/dI9GVmfW42M/s1600/DSCN8256.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tsuyado at Temple 60</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-pAdEUXBdvqI/U5pryjeTosI/AAAAAAAAENs/uoRbA2kcb1U/s1600/DSCN8258.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-pAdEUXBdvqI/U5pryjeTosI/AAAAAAAAENs/uoRbA2kcb1U/s1600/DSCN8258.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Some of the statues, over 500 in all, of Buddhists<br />
who have attained enlightenment</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-71pMVqxKKDA/U5przLx3cSI/AAAAAAAAEN0/c219RX1imvw/s1600/DSCN8277.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-71pMVqxKKDA/U5przLx3cSI/AAAAAAAAEN0/c219RX1imvw/s1600/DSCN8277.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I dunno, this one reminded me of someone...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OpgaX7ctR9g/U5pr8LmXMQI/AAAAAAAAEQk/6JkPMX93NgE/s1600/RSCN8261.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OpgaX7ctR9g/U5pr8LmXMQI/AAAAAAAAEQk/6JkPMX93NgE/s1600/RSCN8261.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pilgrims arriving on the cable car at Unpenji</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-1AnNyYgfMtI/U5pr53XerHI/AAAAAAAAEP0/mZMZQU6XxBQ/s1600/IMG_0579.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-1AnNyYgfMtI/U5pr53XerHI/AAAAAAAAEP0/mZMZQU6XxBQ/s1600/IMG_0579.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Making a wish on the aubergine</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
The next morning we bumped into Kenji, whom we had not seen since Matsuyama. After we descended the mountain, we went for an udon meal along with another pilgrim, Chiaki who we had enjoyed chatting with along the road from Unpenji. We were now in the final province Kagawa, which is famous for Sanuki udon noodles. Chiaki ordered a cold udon and was given a bottle of soy sauce with his meal. Mick and I ordered the hot which comes in a warm broth. Mick reached for the soy bottle and simultaneously Kenji, Chiaki and the waitress all shouted 'NO!' The waitress lunged for the bottle and grabbed it from Mick's hand. Mick's face was so sunburnt I didn't think it could go any redder but it did. He had clearly committed a terrible faux pas, perhaps he had inadvertently cursed the table by using someone else's soy sauce? Later he plucked up courage to ask the other two what was wrong. The answer was disconcertingly straightforward. 'You should not add soy as the udon already comes in soup,' Kenji explained.<br />
<br />
Chiaki was so hungry he ordered another bowl of udon, hot this time. He sprinkled it liberally with chilli pepper. 'So soy sauce is not allowed but chilli powder is ok?' said Mick. Apparently so. It was very confusing.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-mpwYveMEs5k/U5pr0WDobiI/AAAAAAAAEOQ/IU1gtlcXljc/s1600/DSCN8307.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-mpwYveMEs5k/U5pr0WDobiI/AAAAAAAAEOQ/IU1gtlcXljc/s1600/DSCN8307.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kenji and Chiaki</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The next section took us around the plains. We were feeling exuberant after putting Unpenji behind us. The end was surely now in sight! And herein lies a lesson - premature celebration can be dangerous. We had set up camp near the double temples of Kanonji and Jinnein. A supermarket was nearby and we relaxed our no alcohol rule (again) and treated ourselves to a bottle of wine and some sake. I am sorry to say that at this point we got a little carried away and made the fatal mistake of going back to the supermarket for another bottle of wine. The repercussions of this were that when we staggered into bed we did not fasten the tent properly. By the time we came round the tent was full of mosquitoes who were having a veritable banquet on our flesh. No more wine for me, I vowed.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-pzyOC4beTuc/U5pr1CCTU2I/AAAAAAAAEOU/MbIBnDb8Nxc/s1600/DSCN8356.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-pzyOC4beTuc/U5pr1CCTU2I/AAAAAAAAEOU/MbIBnDb8Nxc/s1600/DSCN8356.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The perils of too much wine and sake...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-8yEZpZqaZQY/U5pr2PS-ZyI/AAAAAAAAEOs/5nb5_p_4oh8/s1600/DSCN8367.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-8yEZpZqaZQY/U5pr2PS-ZyI/AAAAAAAAEOs/5nb5_p_4oh8/s1600/DSCN8367.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Temple 71 has many steps...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-qbebaZqWEEQ/U5pr1hTNR1I/AAAAAAAAEOg/JbyLlC4lN1Y/s1600/DSCN8361.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-qbebaZqWEEQ/U5pr1hTNR1I/AAAAAAAAEOg/JbyLlC4lN1Y/s1600/DSCN8361.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chris</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-yNH3jdE_ceg/U5pr6jnyANI/AAAAAAAAEQI/1dGTHmxMwow/s1600/IMG_0594.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-yNH3jdE_ceg/U5pr6jnyANI/AAAAAAAAEQI/1dGTHmxMwow/s1600/IMG_0594.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Camp at park -ok except for the boy racers and the wild dogs….</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The following night we camped at a play park alongside another pilgrim, a smashing bloke called Chris who was from Berlin.But during the night we were woken, first by a group of motorcyclists who were apparently so bored they spent their time biking round the park at night revving their 50cc two-stroke engines to a scream and then after they went I was awoken again, this time by a pack of wild dogs howling outside the tent. I found it unnerving and wondered how scared I would have been had I been camping alone. The following day we visited some wonderful temples including Zentsuji, birthplace of Kōbō Daishi. Here, for 500 yen you can descend below the main hall into a tunnel where you walk in complete darkness for ninety metres, feeling your way along the wall, known as the Kaidan Meguri. Mick did not fancy it and there were no other visitors so I was totally alone as I felt my way along, chanting a sutra as I went. The walk is circular and it is not long before the darkness envelops you completely. It is surprising how long 90 metres can seem in total darkness and silence.<br />
<br />
We also stopped for a bowl of udon at a brilliant little place where the udon is made out the back and you serve it yourself. Even better - when we came to pay we were told that a 'man from Osaka' had left 5000 yen to pay for meals for walking pilgrims that happened by so we had a free meal to boot. Wonderful.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-4Rxu2xHEQQc/U5pr4aATNmI/AAAAAAAAEPc/rjkIsHDiQdw/s1600/DSCN8394.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-4Rxu2xHEQQc/U5pr4aATNmI/AAAAAAAAEPc/rjkIsHDiQdw/s1600/DSCN8394.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-E91PgI1ex-s/U5pr6210aNI/AAAAAAAAEQE/GN0VF5mh2IQ/s1600/IMG_0604.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-E91PgI1ex-s/U5pr6210aNI/AAAAAAAAEQE/GN0VF5mh2IQ/s1600/IMG_0604.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-kOb6wsnv9Bo/U5pr3jVeXwI/AAAAAAAAEPQ/qr7PiiR55K0/s1600/DSCN8392.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-kOb6wsnv9Bo/U5pr3jVeXwI/AAAAAAAAEPQ/qr7PiiR55K0/s1600/DSCN8392.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lovely udon - which turned out to be free...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-04WPs7Isn9I/U5prwjJoG6I/AAAAAAAAENM/usHQwqqv0Ew/s1600/DSCN8193.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-04WPs7Isn9I/U5prwjJoG6I/AAAAAAAAENM/usHQwqqv0Ew/s1600/DSCN8193.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a>But fatigue was getting the better of us. It had been two weeks and many kilometres now since we had slept in a bed. Every day it was getting harder to keep going. My body stung from the bites we had sustained a couple of nights ago. We needed a break. I checked the map; the guidebook listed a business hotel near Temple 76. The hotel quoted 7800 yen including breakfast, around £21 British pounds each. The next morning I went back to the desk and booked us in for another night. We felt that we had earned it.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-CsfZ2YOKAWk/U5ppqoBcTfI/AAAAAAAAELg/dD-ofFcFk8M/s1600/DSCN8104.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-CsfZ2YOKAWk/U5ppqoBcTfI/AAAAAAAAELg/dD-ofFcFk8M/s1600/DSCN8104.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ov7gx4rpHcc/U5ppovkWvxI/AAAAAAAAELU/wwASCYAJCfc/s1600/DSCN8084.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ov7gx4rpHcc/U5ppovkWvxI/AAAAAAAAELU/wwASCYAJCfc/s1600/DSCN8084.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-wmAfgKtmBmE/U5ppmUmP5wI/AAAAAAAAELA/G4zXAW4Xx2I/s1600/DSCN8065.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-wmAfgKtmBmE/U5ppmUmP5wI/AAAAAAAAELA/G4zXAW4Xx2I/s1600/DSCN8065.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-mnFJI-qxGYA/U5prvDaNe2I/AAAAAAAAEMw/c9mTquzbbtQ/s1600/DSCN8155.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-mnFJI-qxGYA/U5prvDaNe2I/AAAAAAAAEMw/c9mTquzbbtQ/s1600/DSCN8155.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ZkDFi8kYxt0/U5przcaOeBI/AAAAAAAAEN4/zHftrZpwiAY/s1600/DSCN8279.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ZkDFi8kYxt0/U5przcaOeBI/AAAAAAAAEN4/zHftrZpwiAY/s1600/DSCN8279.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ybCsjKBn6Nk/U5pr0ilFTkI/AAAAAAAAEOI/QQ5pd8Bc0rg/s1600/DSCN8351.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ybCsjKBn6Nk/U5pr0ilFTkI/AAAAAAAAEOI/QQ5pd8Bc0rg/s1600/DSCN8351.jpg" height="229" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-tf3SRZgC2wY/U5pr1ydPYHI/AAAAAAAAEOw/PZZ8nGItbcw/s1600/DSCN8363.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-tf3SRZgC2wY/U5pr1ydPYHI/AAAAAAAAEOw/PZZ8nGItbcw/s1600/DSCN8363.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9jYcVHOrb2s/U5pr2kYNAcI/AAAAAAAAEO4/TFcg49dk1hE/s1600/DSCN8368.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9jYcVHOrb2s/U5pr2kYNAcI/AAAAAAAAEO4/TFcg49dk1hE/s1600/DSCN8368.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-FEbNaVORlms/U5pr3UCLzmI/AAAAAAAAEPE/W5zRgCt0SOc/s1600/DSCN8371.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-FEbNaVORlms/U5pr3UCLzmI/AAAAAAAAEPE/W5zRgCt0SOc/s1600/DSCN8371.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-lRK68CWhc08/U5pr3e5NxBI/AAAAAAAAEPI/FNw_xNm4hww/s1600/DSCN8381.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-lRK68CWhc08/U5pr3e5NxBI/AAAAAAAAEPI/FNw_xNm4hww/s1600/DSCN8381.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-W6OhirgRfVQ/U5pr4ij03dI/AAAAAAAAEPg/TCvwg2fVkwU/s1600/DSCN8405.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-W6OhirgRfVQ/U5pr4ij03dI/AAAAAAAAEPg/TCvwg2fVkwU/s1600/DSCN8405.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ooh, look what Mick found</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-qLSJZ4tRLBk/U5pr49fERZI/AAAAAAAAEP4/9YgBPS2wtu0/s1600/IMG_0540.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-qLSJZ4tRLBk/U5pr49fERZI/AAAAAAAAEP4/9YgBPS2wtu0/s1600/IMG_0540.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
Our route so far:<br />
<br />
<iframe frameborder="0" height="500px" scrolling="no" src="http://www.mappedometer.com/routes/embeddedroute.php?maproute=303095&units=2&showmarkers=1&showdistance=1&eid=641&domain=elliestravelstories.blogspot.com&mapsize=2" width="500px">Your browser does not support iframes. View this route at <a target="_blank" href="http://www.mappedometer.com/?maproute=303095">Map Pedometer</a></iframe>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-QQWfJY3xYM0/U5prz0hwPYI/AAAAAAAAEOA/dPo90kMLZeQ/s1600/DSCN8289.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-QQWfJY3xYM0/U5prz0hwPYI/AAAAAAAAEOA/dPo90kMLZeQ/s1600/DSCN8289.jpg" height="301" width="400" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
<br /></div>
Elliehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07671617922958041389noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2705526479207156981.post-86706631427282914652014-05-28T03:50:00.000+01:002014-06-25T08:04:46.354+01:00Making our way to Matsuyama<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<br />
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-IaZj5GFzizI/U4U5Z68ksQI/AAAAAAAAD88/6WfnWpz2tc8/s1600/DSCN7107.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-IaZj5GFzizI/U4U5Z68ksQI/AAAAAAAAD88/6WfnWpz2tc8/s1600/DSCN7107.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a><br />
Well, my plans of a regular blog of this trip were thwarted by the fact that the southern half of Shikoku and the wifi network are apparently strangers to one another. I suppose it may have been easier to get online had we been sleeping in lovely, comfortable, soft, clean, yummy hotel beds but we were not. Since Kochi we have only had two nights paid accommodation - in a ryokan in Uwajima - which had no internet connection. The remainder of the time we have been sleeping in the tent or in other free accommodation and all our efforts (aside from the obvious walking stuff) have been devoted to finding somewhere to wash and satisfying more-or-less continual hunger pangs rather than Facebook and blogging.<br />
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-O-17J3AezzQ/U4VAzGvBcyI/AAAAAAAAD_M/gs52C1OCA9w/s1600/DSCN7105.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-O-17J3AezzQ/U4VAzGvBcyI/AAAAAAAAD_M/gs52C1OCA9w/s1600/DSCN7105.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/--eGTqU6zwSU/U4VAhAs6QoI/AAAAAAAAD9M/BSb-VDwwjKk/s1600/DSCN7638.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/--eGTqU6zwSU/U4VAhAs6QoI/AAAAAAAAD9M/BSb-VDwwjKk/s1600/DSCN7638.jpg" height="200" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Communications are not<br />
always cutting edge</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
But now we are in Matsuyama with all mod cons. We were so excited to arrive here last night that we booked four nights instead of the two we originally planned. After walking over 800 kilometres we figured we deserved a rest, clean sheets and some time off the trail. So while Mick is happily catching up with the football results and listening to music on You Tube (he's currently listening to <a href="http://www.themarmalade.net/">Marmalade's</a> Reflections of my Life - must be this pilgrimage getting to him) I'll give a potted update of the last couple of weeks on the Henro Michi (the pilgrimage road) since leaving Kochi.<br />
<br />
Refreshed after our stay in the hotel we caught the train back to Temple 28, Dainichi, to resume our walk. This was going to be a special day for us. When we set out to cycle the pilgrimage last September, it was at Kochi that we admitted, after a huge argument, that we had had enough and had given up the pilgrimage. Today we would walk past the place we had given up. This time we felt completely different and I realised how glad I was that Mick had suggested we come back to Shikoku and give ourselves and the pilgrimage another chance.<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-BxG-9PbC2-o/U4U5OH9MbkI/AAAAAAAAD80/gZls-ou3fRA/s1600/DSCN7076.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-BxG-9PbC2-o/U4U5OH9MbkI/AAAAAAAAD80/gZls-ou3fRA/s1600/DSCN7076.JPG" height="200" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The fan</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
At Kokubunji, number 29, I lit my three incense sticks then gently blew them out. 'No blow,' a woman said to me who was lighting hers next to me. She waved her hand over the sticks to put out the flame. 'Like this.' Darn. After visiting 29 temples twice over I was <i>still</i> getting things wrong. And that's before I even start on the sutra reading which I won't even talk about except to say it's a bit of a shambles. As usual, after we had followed our temple rituals we sat on a bench just watching what was going on. The woman who had explained my latest faux pas came over and gave me a fan. I wasn't sure whether she did this because I looked hot or whether she thought I could use it to wave over the incense sticks - anyway, it was a plastic one in the shape of a goldfish bowl advertising Panasonic. I thought it was really cool.<br />
<br />
Between Temple 29 and 30 we reached 'give up hut'. It was here last year that the guidebook had been flung into a clump of bamboo trees and then had to be fished out again by Mick dangling me off the side of the road. We had hung up our henro jackets in the hut and cycled off without a second look back. Now we stopped at the hut for photos and a celebratory segment of orange before jauntily heading on to the next temple in fine fettle.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-2H36X8BRgRo/U4VK9lXTrKI/AAAAAAAAEHE/c3SUdIZiIQA/s1600/DSCN7085.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-2H36X8BRgRo/U4VK9lXTrKI/AAAAAAAAEHE/c3SUdIZiIQA/s1600/DSCN7085.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">At 'give up' hut. Not giving up. Not yet anyway.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
We spent the next couple of days meandering around Kochi, on suburban streets, through lines of paddy fields and along busy roads. Near Temple 31 we found ourselves climbing up a steep wooded path before emerging into the most beautiful botanical gardens. Temple 31 itself, Chikurinji, was beautiful; I could easily have spent the rest of the day there had we more time. But we had been been in Kochi for days now, it was time to move on.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-paaQbWdeiuk/U4VA1cOdAGI/AAAAAAAAD_0/2Q86J-RTsoQ/s1600/DSCN7181.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-paaQbWdeiuk/U4VA1cOdAGI/AAAAAAAAD_0/2Q86J-RTsoQ/s1600/DSCN7181.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
Leaving Kochi the map gave us two choices for crossing Urado Bay - by walking across a mighty bridge that spanned the bay or via a short free ferry service. We opted for the ferry. On the way down to the port a woman came over and gave us 200 yen each for a coffee. (This sort of thing happens a lot here, <a href="http://elliestravelstories.blogspot.jp/2013/10/cycling-in-japan-omotenashi-and-osettai.html">as I mentioned last year</a> and which I'll talk about again in a later post. It's one of the things that makes this walk so special). She asked where we were headed and when we explained she pointed at the map and at the road and we <i>thought</i> she said (in Japanese) 'Oh but the ferry isn't running today, you'll need to walk over the bridge.'<br />
<br />
We changed course and headed for the bridge. We had not walked far on it before we realised that we were in immediate risk of death or serious injury. The 'pavement' was only inches wide and our heads exactly level with the wing mirrors of the countless lorries that were thundering past us. Feeling panicky I looked down only to see the ferry chugging merrily out of the port below. More oaths of the non-pilgrim sort were uttered before we retreated from the scary bridge to wait an hour for the next boat. What the woman had actually said to us we never did discover.<br />
<br />
That evening it was gone five o'clock and we sat outside a convenience store on a little wall debating where to stop for the night. A man on his bicycle stopped and asked us where we would camp. We said we didn't know and he told us to go up to Temple 35 and ask the head monk for the tatami room. The heady scent of orange blossom filled the air as we climbed the steep winding path to the temple in the fading light, passed on the way by the last pilgrims of the day as they made their way back down. It had been good advice - the temple was beautiful and the facilities provided were excellent - a private room to sleep, a large seating area and a sink and kettle, all for free. And in the morning we watched the first light enter the valley below from the terrace below the temple with no sound except the singing of birds. I sat for a long time by the fishpond, watching pond skaters delicately crossing the water and a spider catching a fly in its web.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-7zy2HWZ6gbU/U4VA03fEcTI/AAAAAAAAD_o/C-Eb1ZbocMs/s1600/DSCN7177.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-7zy2HWZ6gbU/U4VA03fEcTI/AAAAAAAAD_o/C-Eb1ZbocMs/s1600/DSCN7177.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-7zy2HWZ6gbU/U4VA03fEcTI/AAAAAAAAD_o/C-Eb1ZbocMs/s1600/DSCN7177.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-OZRy616J4dQ/U4VA_BwznKI/AAAAAAAAECo/qKrB1zl-Pfc/s1600/DSCN7413.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-OZRy616J4dQ/U4VA_BwznKI/AAAAAAAAECo/qKrB1zl-Pfc/s1600/DSCN7413.jpg" height="150" width="200" /></a>The temples were more widely spaced now as we made our way down the second pointy bit of Shikoku, Cape Ashizuri. Facilities were sparser too as we neared the Cape, and it was too late that we realised we had passed our last chance for the day of something to eat. We ate a sparse supper of twelve almonds each, consoling ourselves that tomorrow we would make an early start and get to the shop when it opened at nine. Except it was Wednesday. Apparently, as we were informed by the nice lady in the post office, the shop did not open on Wednesdays. We had to content ourselves with a packet of 'Calorie-Mate' which quite frankly tasted disgusting, until we finally reached the Cape and to our relief found a small restaurant serving food.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tlTTkHh6QsM/U4VA-Cl0u6I/AAAAAAAAECU/9Qk6Jmc0FHc/s1600/DSCN7393.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tlTTkHh6QsM/U4VA-Cl0u6I/AAAAAAAAECU/9Qk6Jmc0FHc/s1600/DSCN7393.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Unloading the catch</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-E2GlBeIJUnc/U4VA-WrVkoI/AAAAAAAAECc/GggANI4_o_o/s1600/DSCN7396.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-E2GlBeIJUnc/U4VA-WrVkoI/AAAAAAAAECc/GggANI4_o_o/s1600/DSCN7396.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-bziID4554AQ/U4VBCBDejOI/AAAAAAAAEDk/20FgsAGQhnM/s1600/DSCN7475.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-bziID4554AQ/U4VBCBDejOI/AAAAAAAAEDk/20FgsAGQhnM/s1600/DSCN7475.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Smoking saba (mackerel)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IfRjphZ_EOk/U4VBA5zMD5I/AAAAAAAAEDI/Onwbes3Ykss/s1600/DSCN7434.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IfRjphZ_EOk/U4VBA5zMD5I/AAAAAAAAEDI/Onwbes3Ykss/s1600/DSCN7434.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-rWmD67aW9LA/U4VBFEKMzHI/AAAAAAAAEEc/hk6b6Q4MtyY/s1600/DSCN7547.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-rWmD67aW9LA/U4VBFEKMzHI/AAAAAAAAEEc/hk6b6Q4MtyY/s1600/DSCN7547.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our 'house'</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Many pilgrims retrace the route back up from Cape Ashizuri but we decided to go on round the Cape and come up the other side. After all, we may never come this way again, and going on felt better to us than going back. We were delayed for a day by a dramatic and heavy rainstorm which we sat out camped under a wooden hut, but the following day was warm and sunny and the rain was soon forgotten. At Sukomo we stayed in the michi-no-eki (road station) in a superb two-storey pilgrim hut. As it got dark, the owner of the cafe at the michi who had kindly already been over and fitted some netting to keep out the wind, called us down from our lodging on the upper level. Two other tourists from Sendai were there, holding sticks. He gave us a stick each and motioned us all to follow him. We had no idea what was afoot but obediently off we all went, down the road and along small paths between paddy fields, tapping our sticks all the while to ward off the snakes. Suddenly our leader gave the command to switch off our headlights. We did so and the fields were filled with the tiny dancing lights of fireflies. It was magical. And then he began to sing in Japanese, a haunting song, while we stood and watched the pulsing lights. It felt quite extraordinary. When he finished we gave a resounding round of applause and he beamed and took a bow before leading us back to the michi-no-eki. The evening was not over though, as our polymath host then produced a telescope and we spent the next hour examining the rings of Saturn and the moons of Jupiter before finally returning to our little house in the car-park.<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-YjGdGcewAIU/U4VA56osxlI/AAAAAAAAEBQ/F26lRBW_xXs/s1600/DSCN7301.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-YjGdGcewAIU/U4VA56osxlI/AAAAAAAAEBQ/F26lRBW_xXs/s1600/DSCN7301.jpg" height="200" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The beloved Terra Nova needs repairing</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Rounding the second cape had done wonders for our morale and now, as we made our way north we reached the halfway point, Temple Forty, the temple farthest away from Temple One. But with each day we were also feeling more weary. The weather was heating up and I agreed with Mick that the only way we were going to manage this walk was to work with the climate by getting up earlier. By now the days had fallen into a routine. The alarm goes off at four, and by half-past we drag ourselves out of our tent. We aim to be packed away and drinking coffee by five and walking by five thirty, or six at the latest. That way we get the bulk of our walking done in the cooler morning air. Twenty kilometres by lunchtime and a few more in the afternoon. At the end of each day I black in a little more of the map with my pen to reflect our progress for the day. The scrabble remains hardly used. Walk, eat, sleep. Walk eat sleep. Repeat. By now I am using my rucksack to hold up my trousers which have become too big for me and we have not had an alcoholic drink since the day we left Osaka.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Ofc4aK4RNg4/U4VA1zfRNBI/AAAAAAAAEAE/5LlFnUvx3OY/s1600/DSCN7202.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Ofc4aK4RNg4/U4VA1zfRNBI/AAAAAAAAEAE/5LlFnUvx3OY/s1600/DSCN7202.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-OYvfBxAzjE8/U4VBMU9g8bI/AAAAAAAAEGs/Cy0rBNaJPQQ/s1600/RSCN7690.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-OYvfBxAzjE8/U4VBMU9g8bI/AAAAAAAAEGs/Cy0rBNaJPQQ/s1600/RSCN7690.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The 'half price' sticker is useful to learn</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-SBwTIjmN-lc/U4VA8MuWi_I/AAAAAAAAEBs/rjWv9Ko9RiA/s1600/DSCN7346.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-SBwTIjmN-lc/U4VA8MuWi_I/AAAAAAAAEBs/rjWv9Ko9RiA/s1600/DSCN7346.jpg" height="281" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This little fella popped out when I went to wash...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
We stayed at Uwajima for two nights in a ryokan. The room was beautiful, a suite with tatami mats and paper screens and a small central table and chairs. But my plan of lounging in bed all day was thwarted when we were turned out at eleven for the room to be cleaned. I wondered whether the manager thought us a little lazy for lounging in bed all day. 'But I've just walked seven hundred kilometres!' I wanted to whine in my defence. Instead we mooched down the road under complimentary umbrellas and sat in a cafe for an hour before returning to our room, unfolding the packed away futons and lying back down where we stayed for the rest of the day.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cOtegqq3WqY/U4VAhGb0T5I/AAAAAAAAD9Q/VUlTctLC_OY/s1600/DSCN7669.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cOtegqq3WqY/U4VAhGb0T5I/AAAAAAAAD9Q/VUlTctLC_OY/s1600/DSCN7669.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-x_3szC_2kaQ/U4VA8s6PcdI/AAAAAAAAEB4/mJsTgOvJRrA/s1600/DSCN7358.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-x_3szC_2kaQ/U4VA8s6PcdI/AAAAAAAAEB4/mJsTgOvJRrA/s1600/DSCN7358.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tunnels do the job but are not pleasant...<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-5TW7t9-EVOk/U4VA8vavgsI/AAAAAAAAECA/3cUOxQhpO-s/s1600/DSCN7359.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-5TW7t9-EVOk/U4VA8vavgsI/AAAAAAAAECA/3cUOxQhpO-s/s1600/DSCN7359.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
especially when they are this long.<br />
<br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Y1H5omA1kSo/U4VAiL_BZCI/AAAAAAAAD9c/Hdd_ph7DJ4w/s1600/DSCN7692.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Y1H5omA1kSo/U4VAiL_BZCI/AAAAAAAAD9c/Hdd_ph7DJ4w/s1600/DSCN7692.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kukai sleeping under a bridge</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-LIy6A0_g7-k/U4VA2i4xfGI/AAAAAAAAEAc/3halWbZtzuc/s1600/DSCN7213.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-LIy6A0_g7-k/U4VA2i4xfGI/AAAAAAAAEAc/3halWbZtzuc/s1600/DSCN7213.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2ELszFZVAJg/U4VAhLI_ZNI/AAAAAAAAD9U/2DC53puD1Ok/s1600/DSCN7670.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2ELszFZVAJg/U4VAhLI_ZNI/AAAAAAAAD9U/2DC53puD1Ok/s1600/DSCN7670.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This church is fibreglass!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
We were heading towards Matsuyama but first came the climb up to Kuma Kōgen Highland, a high area of mountains where temples 44 and 45 are situated. It was a long hot climb to the town of Kuma and we decided to call it a day and visit Daihoji, number 44 the following morning. Our rest day was marred somewhat by a friendly but increasingly voluble cycling henro who was having a fine time on Asahi and sake. His English was as poor as our Japanese and we had little idea what he was saying. Eventually we politely said goodbye and wished him well and walked off to a nearby hut where we planned to pitch up for the night. Undeterred he gathered his things and came over to join us and eventually we pitched our tents side by side. In the morning he was as quiet as a mouse as he packed his gear onto his bike and cycled off.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VMBBX4pJh5I/U4VAy6KE-5I/AAAAAAAAD_I/nVGqElglzk4/s1600/DSCN7124.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VMBBX4pJh5I/U4VAy6KE-5I/AAAAAAAAD_I/nVGqElglzk4/s1600/DSCN7124.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-KkaaM13KP64/U4VAit80rPI/AAAAAAAAD9s/kWMk3P7ex1g/s1600/DSCN7829.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-KkaaM13KP64/U4VAit80rPI/AAAAAAAAD9s/kWMk3P7ex1g/s1600/DSCN7829.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-bQTwUKWcuos/U4VAip95IcI/AAAAAAAAD9o/yxkHmQ3WkCk/s1600/DSCN7810.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-bQTwUKWcuos/U4VAip95IcI/AAAAAAAAD9o/yxkHmQ3WkCk/s1600/DSCN7810.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Enormous trees on the path to Iwayaji</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Temple 44 was the first temple we had come across which looked a little neglected. It had huge straw sandals in the entrance which apparently are remade every hundred years. Perhaps they were nearing the end of their time and so could be excused looking a little tired. But the rest of the temple too seemed a little unkempt, different from the immaculate gardens we usually found. Our guidebook advised leaving backpacks at Kuma as the route to Temple 45, Iwayaji or 'Temple of the Rocky Caves' is a 'there and back again' route but we had nowhere to leave them and after all, we had carried them everywhere else so we thought another 20k would make little difference. It was a superb walk, one of my favourite parts so far, along forest tracks which climbed up to a long ridge before descending down a path which ran between enormous trees and towering cliffs. The temple itself is built, as its name suggests, into the cliffs, and is utterly stunning. It was hard to pull ourselves away and make the long descent to the road and our return route to Kuma. That night we camped at a roadside pull-in ten kilometres down the road. We wanted to be in a position to get off the mountain the next morning as we had been informed more than once that heavy rain was forecast. So when our alarm went at four am we dispensed with coffee and breakfast and headed straight off and soon we were on Misatoke Pass and climbing down through the woods. Halfway down I took a tumble and ripped a hole in the knee of my new £90 overtrousers. I cheered up though when I realised I had accidentally been wearing them back to front and so the hole was in the back of the leg not the front. Nothing that a length of black duct tape would't fix!<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-w3PJowXF2zE/U4VAjFvHlpI/AAAAAAAAD9w/gkAqyFwizgo/s1600/DSCN7837.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-w3PJowXF2zE/U4VAjFvHlpI/AAAAAAAAD9w/gkAqyFwizgo/s1600/DSCN7837.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_kLX3x3tWF8/U4VAkKHW41I/AAAAAAAAD-A/XFn560MaBxo/s1600/DSCN7857.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_kLX3x3tWF8/U4VAkKHW41I/AAAAAAAAD-A/XFn560MaBxo/s1600/DSCN7857.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-vrH4UiWJeLU/U4VAjkFzQ-I/AAAAAAAAD-M/8BmuxVH0ARI/s1600/DSCN7841.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-vrH4UiWJeLU/U4VAjkFzQ-I/AAAAAAAAD-M/8BmuxVH0ARI/s1600/DSCN7841.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-i8AcTPFzZGo/U4VAj2xT4TI/AAAAAAAAD-I/rBrT2SopPb8/s1600/DSCN7846.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-i8AcTPFzZGo/U4VAj2xT4TI/AAAAAAAAD-I/rBrT2SopPb8/s1600/DSCN7846.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tea grower near Iwayaji</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-KaeuoGfxLnc/U4VAlAZHaPI/AAAAAAAAD-U/CUpPsFzMsUY/s1600/DSCN7872.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-KaeuoGfxLnc/U4VAlAZHaPI/AAAAAAAAD-U/CUpPsFzMsUY/s1600/DSCN7872.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a>By the time the rain started in earnest we were down the mountain and on the outskirts of Matsuyama. We meandered about from temple to temple, accompanied by a very nice young chap called Kenji who was from Tokyo and who spoke excellent English. Kenji seemed totally unfazed by the rain as we got wetter and wetter as we walked along. If we had been on our own we would have taken refuge somewhere long ago. We asked him if he wanted to stop for for something to eat but he said he usually skipped lunch. Eventually we apologised to him and said we were bailing out and headed off in search of something to eat. It was gone three and most of the restaurants were closing. As we stood there wondering what to do a woman pulled over and asked if we were going to the next temple. We shook our heads and explained we were hungry. She motioned for us to get in her car and then she drove us down the road to a lovely udon bar where we sat for two hours stuffing our faces on noodles and tempura until the rain went off. We visited Temple 50 and then headed to 51 where we had heard there was a beautiful tsuyado (free accommodation). The monk at the temple verified we were walking pilgrims and carefully took our names and addresses before showing us to a large room above a storehouse at the back of the temple complex with blankets on the floor. It did not look very inviting, perhaps we had been spoilt by Temple 35. When we realised there was no electricity there either we decided not to stay and instead headed on to the superb <a href="http://senguesthouse-matsuyama.com/about-us-2/">Sen Guesthouse</a> a day earlier than planned. Although they were fully booked Matthew and Nori, our hosts, were wonderfully accommodating and made up a bed for us in the staff room. What a joy it was to sit at the table chatting with the other guests while supping wine and whisky which went straight to my head after six weeks of abstinence. A few days here would surely recharge our batteries for the next section of our walk.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
Thanks for reading. This turned into a long post and yet I feel I've only scratched the surface of what I want to say about this walk and this place. But I'll save it for another time. Mick's just poured me a beer and I'm off to relax. Cheers!<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-5fJR5Zk1PEs/U4VAlu1o5KI/AAAAAAAAD-g/qNFOZPRQVZw/s1600/DSCN7911.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-5fJR5Zk1PEs/U4VAlu1o5KI/AAAAAAAAD-g/qNFOZPRQVZw/s1600/DSCN7911.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-C-jxP73J5fk/U4VAlv_xsyI/AAAAAAAAD-c/ygvFlCYqZa4/s1600/DSCN7896.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-C-jxP73J5fk/U4VAlv_xsyI/AAAAAAAAD-c/ygvFlCYqZa4/s1600/DSCN7896.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ELGmiyIdbEM/U4VAy6aGhiI/AAAAAAAAD_E/SXnqgLuWyio/s1600/DSCN7114.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ELGmiyIdbEM/U4VAy6aGhiI/AAAAAAAAD_E/SXnqgLuWyio/s1600/DSCN7114.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-09vVsTyPG0Y/U4VA4fxArwI/AAAAAAAAEAs/Pig4poI1ePk/s1600/DSCN7282.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-09vVsTyPG0Y/U4VA4fxArwI/AAAAAAAAEAs/Pig4poI1ePk/s1600/DSCN7282.jpg" height="320" width="211" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-fk2-uQNDJA8/U4VA42s2T-I/AAAAAAAAEA0/Fgd_7uA-z4o/s1600/DSCN7290.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-fk2-uQNDJA8/U4VA42s2T-I/AAAAAAAAEA0/Fgd_7uA-z4o/s1600/DSCN7290.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-BpMm2-J3I7o/U4VA7pFlVvI/AAAAAAAAEBk/MkZLeZY9yRI/s1600/DSCN7344.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-BpMm2-J3I7o/U4VA7pFlVvI/AAAAAAAAEBk/MkZLeZY9yRI/s1600/DSCN7344.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Ps. I forgot to say that somewhere along the way, when we were near Ashizuri, I celebrated my 51st birthday. Mick presented me with a surprise 'cake' in the form of a cream crêpe and as it was a special day I treated myself to an extra ten minutes in bed, and got up at twenty to five instead of half past four. We were still asleep by half-past seven that evening though and it is the first birthday I have celebrated without alcohol since about 1979! </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-8uB1FWy8dRQ/U4bFZi1umeI/AAAAAAAAEHU/kHwU03jezAI/s1600/DSCN7486.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-8uB1FWy8dRQ/U4bFZi1umeI/AAAAAAAAEHU/kHwU03jezAI/s1600/DSCN7486.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
</div>
<iframe frameborder="0" height="500px" scrolling="no" src="http://www.mappedometer.com/routes/embeddedroute.php?maproute=296145&units=1&showmarkers=1&showdistance=1&eid=624&domain=www.elliestravelstories.blogspot.com&mapsize=2" width="500px">Your browser does not support iframes. View this route at <a target="_blank" href="http://www.mappedometer.com/?maproute=296145">Map Pedometer</a></iframe></div>
Elliehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07671617922958041389noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2705526479207156981.post-30532632929601359022014-05-05T03:51:00.001+01:002014-06-25T08:05:02.705+01:00Shikoku gets serious<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br />
<br />
<br />
<br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-k64E2OxhXsI/U2bt2fp5E9I/AAAAAAAAD38/covt6P-kqGw/s1600/DSCN6930.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-k64E2OxhXsI/U2bt2fp5E9I/AAAAAAAAD38/covt6P-kqGw/s1600/DSCN6930.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
After a restful afternoon at Hiwasa, the next morning, day 11, we had the long walk ahead - 75 kilometres down the coast to Cape Muroto, the first of Shikoku's two southern 'pointy bits'. We had bumped into Hamish and his friends again in Hiwasa and we gave them a jaunty wave goodbye as we set off down the road. We were feeling sprightly and clean after our visit to the launderette and the onsen (hot bath) the previous day. We didn't know it but we wouldn't look presentable for long...<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-uwM-Df8WotE/U2btxikaTwI/AAAAAAAAD2c/2RhaQhG1Pes/s1600/DSCN6881.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-uwM-Df8WotE/U2btxikaTwI/AAAAAAAAD2c/2RhaQhG1Pes/s1600/DSCN6881.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hamish, Kenji and Misa at Hiwasa</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IwAufCrkAt4/U2btx6nBEKI/AAAAAAAAD2g/ZSgU2f9e6Yk/s1600/DSCN6883.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IwAufCrkAt4/U2btx6nBEKI/AAAAAAAAD2g/ZSgU2f9e6Yk/s1600/DSCN6883.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-vwZhah0hQ84/U2bt0e1etEI/AAAAAAAAD3M/5XD-F2I5c2E/s1600/DSCN6907.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-vwZhah0hQ84/U2bt0e1etEI/AAAAAAAAD3M/5XD-F2I5c2E/s1600/DSCN6907.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a>We detoured off the henro route for the first few kilometres, opting instead for the Minami-awa Sun Line, a scenic road that wound its way through the mountains with magnificent views. The road was quiet and we loved the walk, especially when we spotted a troup of Japanese macaques wandering across the road. But by the time we reached the town of Mugi at the end of the Sun Line and bumped into Hamish and the gang yet again, who had caught up by going down the main road, it had started to rain. I was carrying a heavy Japanese parasol which we had been given, kindly meant but totally impractical to carry for 1200 kilometres. We tried to refuse it but the couple who gave it to us had insisted. Still it came in useful for a while as the rain gear I had brought (a cape which was too short, some cut off waterproof shorts!!?? and knee length waterproof socks) proved utterly useless. Through the afternoon the rain became gradually heavier and we caved in early, setting up camp on the side of the road.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Os8OvgAOM3U/U2bty1s_qmI/AAAAAAAAD2w/i_986sLbYTo/s1600/DSCN6899.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Os8OvgAOM3U/U2bty1s_qmI/AAAAAAAAD2w/i_986sLbYTo/s1600/DSCN6899.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Macaques on the Sun Line</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-SVoYHTqoZGA/U2btzPlO5eI/AAAAAAAAD24/Ng93UgdrI9I/s1600/DSCN6902.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-SVoYHTqoZGA/U2btzPlO5eI/AAAAAAAAD24/Ng93UgdrI9I/s1600/DSCN6902.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This couple love their mini!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-iOExQ3eZV2M/U2btzU2md3I/AAAAAAAAD28/2YHMt28m2kI/s1600/DSCN6904.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-iOExQ3eZV2M/U2btzU2md3I/AAAAAAAAD28/2YHMt28m2kI/s1600/DSCN6904.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The parasol was a kind gift - but very heavy</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-MJlfY8h5fI4/U2bt0ub7VpI/AAAAAAAAD3U/rSRDs5vnXI0/s1600/DSCN6918.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-MJlfY8h5fI4/U2bt0ub7VpI/AAAAAAAAD3U/rSRDs5vnXI0/s1600/DSCN6918.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Trying to stay dry...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-kNho69OeyoI/U2bt0xM8VDI/AAAAAAAAD3Y/GZ6k7R59iwo/s1600/DSCN6924.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-kNho69OeyoI/U2bt0xM8VDI/AAAAAAAAD3Y/GZ6k7R59iwo/s1600/DSCN6924.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
The next morning it was still raining. And then rained some more. Every time I thought it couldn't physically come down any faster, it did, hammering down in sheets. I was drenched from head to toe and Mick wasn't faring much better, though at least his legs were dry in his new Mountain Equipment Goretex Overtrousers. He wasted no time in pointing out that I should have bought a pair too, and I knew he was right. It was so annoying. Eventually I bought a pair of 500 yen plastic trousers and coat in a convenience store which had the effect of keeping my legs out of the rain but soon had them running with sweat instead. We managed ten kilometres in total before giving in and taking refuge in a park shelter until the rain went off. The next morning we were still there.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-V0LDaExnNP4/U2b7VoE0RFI/AAAAAAAAD8E/uFZTRGmG3Nw/s1600/DSCN6916.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-V0LDaExnNP4/U2b7VoE0RFI/AAAAAAAAD8E/uFZTRGmG3Nw/s1600/DSCN6916.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
The rain had finally stopped so I reluctantly put on my soaking wet gear and shoes. I set off a few minutes ahead of Mick and around the corner I met the principal of the local elementary school who insisted on making all the children stop. line up and say hello to me as they trooped into the school gates while I stood there nodding, smiling and saying hello, my clothes steaming gently in the morning sunshine.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-JqOR8WhKiSc/U2bt3nGtB9I/AAAAAAAAD4Q/jcCfST79L9M/s1600/DSCN6942.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-JqOR8WhKiSc/U2bt3nGtB9I/AAAAAAAAD4Q/jcCfST79L9M/s1600/DSCN6942.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This Henro had quite a system going with a <br />
waist harness and carabiners</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-deoP3mZ2BdU/U2bt37wQ2gI/AAAAAAAAD4U/3SNuHaGUt4g/s1600/DSCN6946.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-deoP3mZ2BdU/U2bt37wQ2gI/AAAAAAAAD4U/3SNuHaGUt4g/s1600/DSCN6946.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Couple Rock</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-52EYbR4-ldo/U2bt4-4qtTI/AAAAAAAAD4k/zYuG3--bqXM/s1600/DSCN6948.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-52EYbR4-ldo/U2bt4-4qtTI/AAAAAAAAD4k/zYuG3--bqXM/s1600/DSCN6948.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
But soon we were dry, except for our shoes, and at least we made reasonable progress of around 30 kilometres. By the end of the day we were back to dripping with sweat. Was it always this hot at the beginning of May? We were feeling tired and grubby and decided to knock on the door of a minshuku (a family run guesthouse) but got no reply. Instead we made camp in the grounds of a disused school. At least the outside taps were still supplying running water although there were no toilets so I had to disappear into the woods armed with a stick for digging a hole while keeping a lookout for snakes...<br />
<br />
In the night I could hear monkeys making a din in the woods behind the school; I wondered whether they were annoyed at the appearance of the two upright apes, perhaps normally they ventured into the abandoned playground to have a go on the old swings and the climbing frame and maybe a game of baseball with the bats and balls left lying around in the yard.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-yyEEmmw2r8g/U2bt4-zcz3I/AAAAAAAAD4o/We6GfRTFdk8/s1600/DSCN6949.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-yyEEmmw2r8g/U2bt4-zcz3I/AAAAAAAAD4o/We6GfRTFdk8/s1600/DSCN6949.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Camp at the school</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Ep_Vgvmsc-Y/U2bt5LT7UWI/AAAAAAAAD4s/XXuQQNCGYkw/s1600/DSCN6957.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Ep_Vgvmsc-Y/U2bt5LT7UWI/AAAAAAAAD4s/XXuQQNCGYkw/s1600/DSCN6957.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I can think of worse places to stop for breakfast...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-l9gYmfTPAAs/U2bt6A04dCI/AAAAAAAAD5A/MwSsiVA-1mE/s1600/DSCN6960.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-l9gYmfTPAAs/U2bt6A04dCI/AAAAAAAAD5A/MwSsiVA-1mE/s1600/DSCN6960.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pillow lava formed by underwater volcanoes, Muroto Geopark</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lH1dnBzD8uU/U2bt1xAWYjI/AAAAAAAAD3w/71nLWf7Xw-g/s1600/DSCN6926.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lH1dnBzD8uU/U2bt1xAWYjI/AAAAAAAAD3w/71nLWf7Xw-g/s1600/DSCN6926.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Superb henro facility at Meitokuji Shrine</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ZAIaYxPNVPU/U2bt2QmMFiI/AAAAAAAAD34/Lb1hMZbS_ns/s1600/DSCN6928.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ZAIaYxPNVPU/U2bt2QmMFiI/AAAAAAAAD34/Lb1hMZbS_ns/s1600/DSCN6928.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Including tea and coffee...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-J8n5NFHkLYE/U2bt5zCzs3I/AAAAAAAAD48/qx0vaO9kWgE/s1600/DSCN6963.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-J8n5NFHkLYE/U2bt5zCzs3I/AAAAAAAAD48/qx0vaO9kWgE/s1600/DSCN6963.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Shrine </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
On day 15 we made it down to the end of the cape and climbed up through the woods to Temple 24, Hotsumisakiji. Just as we reached the temple along the woodland path I heard Mick, who was in front, yell out. When I reached him he was pointing frantically to the side of the path. I looked and saw a huge black snake slithering away over the bank, it was a good five foot long. Mick had almost trod on it as it crossed the path in front of him, only seeing it at the very last moment. Ten minutes later in the temple I overheard him telling another pilgrim about it…'and this snake was <i>at least</i> eight foot long…'<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-3GBFNt_7elA/U2bt6BOWhdI/AAAAAAAAD5E/J4l2xTOk-ns/s1600/DSCN6970.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-3GBFNt_7elA/U2bt6BOWhdI/AAAAAAAAD5E/J4l2xTOk-ns/s1600/DSCN6970.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Reclining Buddha, Cape Muroto</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-AVw_hBilRwk/U2bt7MLLBKI/AAAAAAAAD5U/LkYlChFe6WM/s1600/DSCN6972.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-AVw_hBilRwk/U2bt7MLLBKI/AAAAAAAAD5U/LkYlChFe6WM/s1600/DSCN6972.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Young Daishi Statue, Cape Muroto</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-XsVC9gRlev0/U2bt7cWWWZI/AAAAAAAAD5g/8bAiBDZ1xO4/s1600/DSCN6975.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-XsVC9gRlev0/U2bt7cWWWZI/AAAAAAAAD5g/8bAiBDZ1xO4/s1600/DSCN6975.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Delightful path up to Hotsumisakiji….</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-EeMT6vPbcGk/U2bt7aqBFCI/AAAAAAAAD5Y/HjbNoxOoiv4/s1600/DSCN6976.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-EeMT6vPbcGk/U2bt7aqBFCI/AAAAAAAAD5Y/HjbNoxOoiv4/s1600/DSCN6976.jpg" height="320" width="239" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">…until Mick nearly trod on the snake...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-iy3WJhvKvw0/U2bt8Jmhj8I/AAAAAAAAD5s/YH46uiEUhNo/s1600/DSCN6978.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-iy3WJhvKvw0/U2bt8Jmhj8I/AAAAAAAAD5s/YH46uiEUhNo/s1600/DSCN6978.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hotsumisakiji, Temple 24</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-lcb3VOzhuj8/U2buAOdpjaI/AAAAAAAAD6o/sZ19Cm4JXa0/s1600/DSCN7022.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-lcb3VOzhuj8/U2buAOdpjaI/AAAAAAAAD6o/sZ19Cm4JXa0/s1600/DSCN7022.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Running Henro</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
We rounded Cape Muruto and headed up the other side of the coast towards Kōchi; this side seemed much more affluent with pretty houses and gardens lining the roads. But between us and Kochi city was our nemesis, Kōnomineji,Temple 27. This temple had finished us off when we tried to cycle the henro michi last year. It's not as high as some of the temples we had already visited but there was something about the approach to this one, up an interminable road, culminating in a climb for the last kilometres at a gradient of forty-five degrees that we both found almost intolerable. We were not looking forward to it. We decided to tackle it first thing, before it got too hot. We had started, as Mick had suggested, to set the alarm for five and were normally walking by six-thirty. This day the alarm went off at four am. 'Why am I doing this <i>again</i>?' I thought grumpily as I packed away my sleeping bag. By six we were halfway up the road that led through the valley and up the mountain to the temple, even so there were a good number of other pilgrims on the road with us An early start was the thing to do. We puffed our way up to the top, and it was with some relief that we finally found ourselves at the gate to the temple and I put a few extra yen in the collection box as a sign of my gratitude. As we left a young woman ran past on her way in. She had <i>run up the mountain</i>. Shortly afterwards a man pedalled up on his bike and dismounted next to us. It was some time before he was able to speak. 'Steep,' he gasped. I couldn't help but agree.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-MT4pptrCay8/U2bt-8eJZmI/AAAAAAAAD6Y/8OLAFh0jX4w/s1600/DSCN7016.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-MT4pptrCay8/U2bt-8eJZmI/AAAAAAAAD6Y/8OLAFh0jX4w/s1600/DSCN7016.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fudō Myōō, Temple 27</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-eFOVzlGP68A/U2bt_sA92UI/AAAAAAAAD6k/7PQWQo9KO0Q/s1600/DSCN7017.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-eFOVzlGP68A/U2bt_sA92UI/AAAAAAAAD6k/7PQWQo9KO0Q/s1600/DSCN7017.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Vfg5Tjk7A1o/U2btx65FtxI/AAAAAAAAD2k/fZzJC11Qs7A/s1600/DSCN6894.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Vfg5Tjk7A1o/U2btx65FtxI/AAAAAAAAD2k/fZzJC11Qs7A/s1600/DSCN6894.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mick finds not talking a strain...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
At Temple 27 we bumped into Hamish again. I asked where his companions were and he said he had decided to come on ahead. He wanted to walk the pilgrimage alone. I could understand why. This pilgrimage is a solitary one I think. Many pilgrims seem to walk this walk alone, although people gather at huts and rest places for a chat. And I notice that even when people walk in pairs or groups, little conversation takes place. Even Mick has started to go quiet and there is no sound but the tapping of our sticks and the tinkling of the bells we wear to frighten the snakes (not that this seems to work). Sometimes he is quiet for as much as ten minutes at a time, although admittedly this is something of a strain.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-iplC45SiyvE/U2bt-LHiiqI/AAAAAAAAD6I/o91jxHde0sQ/s1600/DSCN7008.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-iplC45SiyvE/U2bt-LHiiqI/AAAAAAAAD6I/o91jxHde0sQ/s1600/DSCN7008.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Terraced paddy fields</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
From Cape Muroto to Kōchi the route follows the Pacific coastline. Walking here it is clear how much effort and concrete the Japanese expend on holding back the mountains on one side and the ocean on the other, protecting the habitable sliver of land in between. Harbours are backed by huge sea walls and brand new tsunami escape routes climb up the mountains. It is clearly a constant and expensive battle to try to keep these powerful forces at bay.<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8o_1re7WEUA/U2bt-H5PUsI/AAAAAAAAD6M/bBkOFs6ckrk/s1600/DSCN6997.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8o_1re7WEUA/U2bt-H5PUsI/AAAAAAAAD6M/bBkOFs6ckrk/s1600/DSCN6997.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-iZfdKKGyQSY/U2bt87QB1wI/AAAAAAAAD50/DRhNu8WUeP4/s1600/DSCN6987.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-iZfdKKGyQSY/U2bt87QB1wI/AAAAAAAAD50/DRhNu8WUeP4/s1600/DSCN6987.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Aloe </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-7wKOfck3HsA/U2bt9z0To1I/AAAAAAAAD6E/ch0ANiSfd9Y/s1600/DSCN6998.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-7wKOfck3HsA/U2bt9z0To1I/AAAAAAAAD6E/ch0ANiSfd9Y/s1600/DSCN6998.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Typhoon breakwater</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
At Aki we decided to try and find the sento (public bath house) as it was now a week since we have had a proper wash. I had learned the Japanese phrase to ask for directions and stopped someone to ask the whereabouts of the sento. Unfortunately I hadn't learned enough Japanese to understand the answer. We wandered around the town for an hour before an old man took pity on us, fetched his bike and led us right to the door. We spent an hour in there and it was wonderful to be clean again, even if we did have to put our dirty clothes back on afterwards.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Dkw5Jm0gNt8/U2buDFdb7NI/AAAAAAAAD7k/XU0YPhl_roo/s1600/DSCN7061.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Dkw5Jm0gNt8/U2buDFdb7NI/AAAAAAAAD7k/XU0YPhl_roo/s1600/DSCN7061.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">New signpost on the trail</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Cxv-2rXSBE4/U2bt1b9Gj2I/AAAAAAAAD3g/IznbTFE50pA/s1600/DSCN6925.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Cxv-2rXSBE4/U2bt1b9Gj2I/AAAAAAAAD3g/IznbTFE50pA/s1600/DSCN6925.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A useful sign to learn (toilet)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Sunday, Day 18. Our route took us along a cycle path, fifteen kilometres long, and gloriously traffic free. Along the way we stumbled across a Harley Davidson bike meet which Mick loved before ending up at a beach and water resort where the sea was full of kayaks and little sailing dinghies. It is Golden Week in Japan, a popular holiday period and the michi-no-eki (road station) at the resort was packed. We sat for ages on a bench overlooking the water, enjoying the fresh breeze coming off the Pacific.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-EpA3gb1BL_Y/U2buBXZHskI/AAAAAAAAD7E/cfUl0lDRVf4/s1600/DSCN7046.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-EpA3gb1BL_Y/U2buBXZHskI/AAAAAAAAD7E/cfUl0lDRVf4/s1600/DSCN7046.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bikers at the Harley Davidson meet</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-FsM9WlfF64I/U2buCBd5rHI/AAAAAAAAD7Q/By118p8Mi-g/s1600/DSCN7049.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-FsM9WlfF64I/U2buCBd5rHI/AAAAAAAAD7Q/By118p8Mi-g/s1600/DSCN7049.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-wVxIW2Ng71A/U2buCKWT0BI/AAAAAAAAD7g/glr9WuURZ8M/s1600/DSCN7051.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-wVxIW2Ng71A/U2buCKWT0BI/AAAAAAAAD7g/glr9WuURZ8M/s1600/DSCN7051.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-PxBB_jhxM5Y/U2buCRMv2AI/AAAAAAAAD7Y/3dLUxJtGzdI/s1600/DSCN7056.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-PxBB_jhxM5Y/U2buCRMv2AI/AAAAAAAAD7Y/3dLUxJtGzdI/s1600/DSCN7056.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Different sort of bike - <br />
Cycle path between Aki and Yasu</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-MW0FCV7i6M8/U2bt87BPwhI/AAAAAAAAD5w/19syU6CJnVg/s1600/DSCN6993.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-MW0FCV7i6M8/U2bt87BPwhI/AAAAAAAAD5w/19syU6CJnVg/s1600/DSCN6993.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Maybe it is all getting too much...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-T56INViJ8iE/U2buBPipIqI/AAAAAAAAD7A/ZOf-ajgR1BI/s1600/DSCN7037.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-T56INViJ8iE/U2buBPipIqI/AAAAAAAAD7A/ZOf-ajgR1BI/s1600/DSCN7037.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-JrXejXrjtNA/U2buAzpk2cI/AAAAAAAAD68/BRP9IDID1z8/s1600/DSCN7032.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-JrXejXrjtNA/U2buAzpk2cI/AAAAAAAAD68/BRP9IDID1z8/s1600/DSCN7032.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Akano rest station</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
My legs were aching and I had shooting pains in my ankles while Mick had developed blisters from walking in wet shoes earlier in the week. We made it to Temple 28 on the edge of Kōchi but it was a struggle. We have walked 200 miles since we set off. We needed a rest.<br />
<br />
Mick looked at the map and made a suggestion. 'There's a station less than a kilometre away from here. Why don't we get a train into Kōchi and book two nights in a hotel? We can come back on Tuesday to resume the walk. That's assuming we can book into a hotel in GoldenWeek.' This sounded like an excellent idea. With the rain, the snake incident and the ever increasing mileage, it felt like Shikoku, after a gentle introduction, was yelling us not to take her for granted. We were being reminded that this is no easy walk. Some respite would be welcome before we tackle the next section.<br />
<br />
An hour later we were in the lobby of the Green Hotel where after some negotiation the manager gave us a pilgrim price deal for two nights. Tomorrow we will rest and then go in search of some waterproof trousers. I have a feeling I might need them.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-p6YHVgR0P2Q/U2buEA0HoBI/AAAAAAAAD70/DIiSgP-eYog/s1600/DSCN7063.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-p6YHVgR0P2Q/U2buEA0HoBI/AAAAAAAAD70/DIiSgP-eYog/s1600/DSCN7063.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
Our route so far:<br />
<br /></div>
<iframe frameborder="0" height="500px" scrolling="no" src="http://www.mappedometer.com/routes/embeddedroute.php?maproute=286264&units=1&showmarkers=1&showdistance=1&eid=594&domain=elliestravelstories.blogspot.com&mapsize=2" width="500px">Your browser does not support iframes. View this route at &amp;lt;a target="_blank" href="http://www.mappedometer.com/?maproute=286264"&amp;gt;Map Pedometer&amp;lt;/a&amp;gt;</iframe>\<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-QnxR2i40cLY/U2bt3LL8YNI/AAAAAAAAD4M/LTwjB7IcaiM/s1600/DSCN6933.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-QnxR2i40cLY/U2bt3LL8YNI/AAAAAAAAD4M/LTwjB7IcaiM/s1600/DSCN6933.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br /></div>
Elliehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07671617922958041389noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2705526479207156981.post-13880679510031882014-04-27T13:04:00.000+01:002014-06-25T08:05:17.653+01:00Reaching the Pacific<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-2zR7vy_HMfw/U1zrF-FfGeI/AAAAAAAADzc/VscuT1AA9OU/s1600/DSCN6741.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-2zR7vy_HMfw/U1zrF-FfGeI/AAAAAAAADzc/VscuT1AA9OU/s1600/DSCN6741.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A henro rest hut</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The day after 'The Pilgrim Crusher' trip to temple 12 we took a day off and lounged around all day in the Michi-no-eki, in Kamiyama onsen and the camp field doing nothing in particular. It was lovely. Later that day Hamish, the guy we had met at Temple 8 turned up with his friends and camped in the same field. One of them, Espen, was using a hammock, a piece of equipment that looked impressive but I wondered how practical it was to find trees at every camp site.<br />
<br />
The following day we were up and away early, early for us anyway, and were on the road by seven o'clock walking back along a quiet winding road into Tokushima for the next cluster of temples. Temples 13-17 are laid around the outskirts of the city and we visited them all in one day, before heading back into town to sleep.We camped in Kuramoto Park which looked leafy green on the map but turned out to be a massive baseball stadium. Still we found a patch of grass between the stadium and the main road and tried to get some sleep while the traffic roared by.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
The following day was a long walk through Tokushima but at last we were heading south. The first 17 temples feel like a mini-pilgimage, a training run as you circle around the city before taking on the Pilgrimage Proper. Hopefully we were up to the task this time.<br />
<br />
We stocked up on gas on the way out of town before looking for somewhere to stay. For the second night this turned out tp be next to a busy road, this time in a small but very nice henro hut. The only difficulty was there was nowhere discreet to have a wee which I overcame with the judicious use of an empty pot noodle container.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-cK9wJYLVjVE/U1zraJaTlAI/AAAAAAAAD00/5k4fNYoxxjo/s1600/DSCN6825.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-cK9wJYLVjVE/U1zraJaTlAI/AAAAAAAAD00/5k4fNYoxxjo/s1600/DSCN6825.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rice planted</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
And so on to Onzanji, temple 18 and 19, Tatsueji. We were crossing one of the plains between the mountains now, through countless small paddy fields being planted out with rice shoots. During the middle of the day the sun felt baking hot between the mountains with not a breath of wind. If it was this warm in April what would June be like? Memories of last year's attempt to cycle this pilgrimage and the oppressive heat we experienced were still disconcertingly fresh in our minds.<br />
'We'll just have to walk through the night,' said Mick.<br />
'Won't that be dangerous?' I said doubtfully. 'What with traffic on the road parts and narrow paths in the woods?'<br />
'Ok, we'll leave at first light,' he said. 'We'll get up at four and set off at five.'<br />
This did not sound tempting but I decided not to argue. Instead I said, 'it'll be cooler on the coast anyway.'<br />
<br />
Temples 20 and 21 are both up mountains. We decided to stay at the michi-no-eki at Katsuura below number 20 and tackle them both in one go. At Katsuura we headed down to the town where there is a sento tucked away next to the hospital which opens to the public in the evening. There was a little confusion when we turned up, as my very short hear resulted in me being mistaken for a man. It was only when I opened the door to the changing rooms and gave a little shriek that the poor woman showing me in realised her mistake. 'Sorry, short hair,' she gestured apologetically, showing me to the ladies changing room.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-4Xh6DU8dMOg/U1zrC5mUuvI/AAAAAAAADzM/BDtux_p-viM/s1600/DSCN6785.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-4Xh6DU8dMOg/U1zrC5mUuvI/AAAAAAAADzM/BDtux_p-viM/s1600/DSCN6785.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-OBiEptGhmmk/U1zrGlAeR3I/AAAAAAAADzk/zqwVEOJ75YY/s1600/DSCN6790.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-OBiEptGhmmk/U1zrGlAeR3I/AAAAAAAADzk/zqwVEOJ75YY/s1600/DSCN6790.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Woodland path</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The walk up to temple 20 the next day was steep but very agreeable as Mick put it, a climb up through pine and deciduous woodland, with flashes of bright pink and red azaleas amongst the trees. The walk down the other side was steep, steep, steep though, down through the forest to the valley floor before climbing up again to Tairuji, temple 21. Tairuji is my favourite temple so far, beautifully laid out on several levels connected by stone steps and beautiful little arch bridges, with red and vivid green acers and pink cherry trees, still blossoming here on the higher slopes. We spend a long time sitting here enjoying watching the pilgrims come and go and listening the the calls of birds that I could not identify.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Uxb8gfRIREE/U1zrKAMH7PI/AAAAAAAADz0/p2neW2zv6RE/s1600/DSCN6794.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Uxb8gfRIREE/U1zrKAMH7PI/AAAAAAAADz0/p2neW2zv6RE/s1600/DSCN6794.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Temple 21</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-7KOPCyKOZ7w/U1zrI2xjrhI/AAAAAAAADzs/1lfH_SFnzMw/s1600/DSCN6792.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-7KOPCyKOZ7w/U1zrI2xjrhI/AAAAAAAADzs/1lfH_SFnzMw/s1600/DSCN6792.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Steps….</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-0kVFsbBegXs/U1zrO2_8hEI/AAAAAAAAD0Q/f1BnfFtuSc0/s1600/DSCN6813.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-0kVFsbBegXs/U1zrO2_8hEI/AAAAAAAAD0Q/f1BnfFtuSc0/s1600/DSCN6813.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">…and steps</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Finally though we decided to head down. Just after the main gate a wooden post indicated a path through the forest rather than down the switchback road and we took it. It headed east along the ridge for a while before finally dropping down. The only trouble was it seemed to be dropping down to the north of the mountain not the south where we were headed. Finally, and far too late I checked the compass. Yup. We were coming off the wrong side of the mountain. One of the pilgrim oaths which henro pilgrims are supposed to subscribe to is: 'I will not complain if things do not go well while on the pilgrimage but consider such experiences to be part of ascetic training.' I wondered if exclaiming 'Oh bollocks!' in a very loud voice counted as a complaint.<br />
<br />
As it turned out it could have been worse. We asked for directions and were told we had a 6k walk back to the bottom of the road we should have come down. But bad enough after two mountains climbed that day. We both secretly hoped that the woman who explained this to us would offer us a lift but none came and we trudged off down the road.<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-TXTLe48bR9U/U1zrLOCsFtI/AAAAAAAAD0A/hrYHFikBXK4/s1600/DSCN6806.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-TXTLe48bR9U/U1zrLOCsFtI/AAAAAAAAD0A/hrYHFikBXK4/s1600/DSCN6806.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Crap place to camp</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
We camped outside another michi-no-eki (Mick has a thing about needing to camp near a toilet) and the next day woke to a dripping wet tent. It must be raining. We put off getting up for a while, and it was only when we finally emerged from the tent that we realised that it was not raining, but that we had camped under a badly designed roof that had been dripping on us all night. Mick tried to blame me for this debacle which I protested and some rather choice words followed, causing me once more to recall that pilgrim oath. There seemed to be a lot of oaths on this pilgrimage but not quite of the right sort.<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-2zrayunjDkc/U1zrPu5_h3I/AAAAAAAAD0c/vC-QMRrWmfU/s1600/DSCN6812.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-2zrayunjDkc/U1zrPu5_h3I/AAAAAAAAD0c/vC-QMRrWmfU/s1600/DSCN6812.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Snake in the grass</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-GHrcuqn8RNo/U1zralbB_wI/AAAAAAAAD08/7cHZDII3eoI/s1600/DSCN6830.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-GHrcuqn8RNo/U1zralbB_wI/AAAAAAAAD08/7cHZDII3eoI/s1600/DSCN6830.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
But we had a grand day, despite a 5k detour to a non-existent supermarket. Instead we feasted on fish from a local shop which was delicious although I have no idea what it was. While we were stopped resting on the side of the road we met the pilgrims from temple 12 who had laughed so heartily at our plans. It was really nice to see them and they seemed pleased to see us too. We exchanged snacks and address details and then for the rest of the day we kept passing each other, all the way to the coast.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_znH2f4RYk8/U1zraDhsD7I/AAAAAAAAD04/sC0uU2Z9zP4/s1600/DSCN6815.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_znH2f4RYk8/U1zraDhsD7I/AAAAAAAAD04/sC0uU2Z9zP4/s1600/DSCN6815.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-v8iyWOX0B58/U1zrWOUdGUI/AAAAAAAAD0k/rFLEMQhqUAw/s1600/DSCN6817.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-v8iyWOX0B58/U1zrWOUdGUI/AAAAAAAAD0k/rFLEMQhqUAw/s1600/DSCN6817.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Now THAT'S what I call a rest hut!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-NuzYwx0uqDw/U1zrX4HphFI/AAAAAAAAD0s/xmns-sY0O-0/s1600/DSCN6821.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-NuzYwx0uqDw/U1zrX4HphFI/AAAAAAAAD0s/xmns-sY0O-0/s1600/DSCN6821.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-KBDtHfGxkJw/U1zrfNmu-SI/AAAAAAAAD1c/jJziBW-viHM/s1600/DSCN6837.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-KBDtHfGxkJw/U1zrfNmu-SI/AAAAAAAAD1c/jJziBW-viHM/s1600/DSCN6837.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Henro man</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The first sight of the Pacific was terrific, as we wound our way down to the little fishing village of Yuki. We planned to camp at Tainohama beach. The way on seemed to be up a large flight of steps. We puffed our way up them, and then up some more. Mick muttered something about being an effing fine way to finish a day's walking, as we made our way wearily up. But then we came to a viewpoint looking out over the ocean and it was suddenly all worth it. The late afternoon silvery light reflected in the calm water as it lapped rhythmically on the beach far below us and beyond the mountains rippled away down the coast, reaching to the water's edge and plunging far below the surface. From here it was a trot down to the hut alongside the beach where we set up camp and sent to sleep listening to the sound of the waves coming ashore.<br />
<br />
Today we reached Hiwasa and after visiting the turtle museum spent the day doing some long overdue laundry before tomorrow's big push down the coast.<br />
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-u27zz9GZQH0/U1zrdD6hVlI/AAAAAAAAD1M/YeX8kTZlhY8/s1600/DSCN6846.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-u27zz9GZQH0/U1zrdD6hVlI/AAAAAAAAD1M/YeX8kTZlhY8/s1600/DSCN6846.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Camp at Tainohama Beach</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-iLyv2c7172g/U1zrdWML2RI/AAAAAAAAD1Q/BfqYiyxjyLw/s1600/DSCN6851.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-iLyv2c7172g/U1zrdWML2RI/AAAAAAAAD1Q/BfqYiyxjyLw/s1600/DSCN6851.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fish sorting - Kiki</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-sXYSnETewP4/U1zrgADYNLI/AAAAAAAAD1k/BYvX0_TMnT0/s1600/DSCN6860.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-sXYSnETewP4/U1zrgADYNLI/AAAAAAAAD1k/BYvX0_TMnT0/s1600/DSCN6860.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ohama beach Hiwasa, </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-cybgq-iNFYc/U1zrgV08MYI/AAAAAAAAD1o/7op7pvRfZy8/s1600/DSCN6866.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-cybgq-iNFYc/U1zrgV08MYI/AAAAAAAAD1o/7op7pvRfZy8/s1600/DSCN6866.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Street light, Hiwasa</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-JaPeZnEVeU4/U1zrjrIlZFI/AAAAAAAAD10/spJINW3DN5s/s1600/DSCN6868.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-JaPeZnEVeU4/U1zrjrIlZFI/AAAAAAAAD10/spJINW3DN5s/s1600/DSCN6868.jpg" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Foot spa for weary travellers at <br />
michi-no-eki, Hiwasa</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-HfuhKsaPPLw/U1zrj0sbIII/AAAAAAAAD14/ymHUQ3ow6dA/s1600/DSCN6872.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-HfuhKsaPPLw/U1zrj0sbIII/AAAAAAAAD14/ymHUQ3ow6dA/s1600/DSCN6872.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Doing the laundry</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-MOh3Th91Sek/U1zrmB4qMTI/AAAAAAAAD2M/EcCxCIl7fRw/s1600/DSCN6875.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-MOh3Th91Sek/U1zrmB4qMTI/AAAAAAAAD2M/EcCxCIl7fRw/s1600/DSCN6875.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hiwasa</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-GU82Ju_8VjM/U1zrjjrQZWI/AAAAAAAAD2A/MjCvEJHvzUU/s1600/DSCN6874.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-GU82Ju_8VjM/U1zrjjrQZWI/AAAAAAAAD2A/MjCvEJHvzUU/s1600/DSCN6874.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Yakuoji, Temple23</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<br /></div>
Elliehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07671617922958041389noreply@blogger.com2